Author Topic: Coolant flush questions  (Read 2169 times)

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Groundpounder17

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Coolant flush questions
« on: Oct 11, 2020, 11:26:47 AM »
I picked up my ‘82 pickup a few months back and it has ran really well although I have several things I’ve been checking off the list for maintenance.  A couple of weeks ago I noticed that the the cheap top radiator to thermostat hose had been collapsing.  I decided to go ahead and order a new radiator cap, new hoses, and new clamps.  I’m now about to flush the coolant and have a few questions.   I went ahead and replaced the cap already and that fixed the hose collapsing

My plan:
- Use irontite Thoro-Flush as directed
- Next drain the system, remove the thermostat
- Replace the thermostat housing housing; flush engine  block
- flush the radiator
- replace the cheap hoses and old clamps
- fill the system water and run for 1/2 hour then flush again
- refill with 50/50

I saw that someone gave advice to just run just water for a week then install the thermostat and add 50/50.  That seems excessive and dangerous to me. I wouldn’t want to run for an extended time without the thermostat. Thoughts?

Also my truck has 3 hoses. Should I leave the middle hose going to the water pump in place when flushing the block or just remove all hoses and divide flushing the block into two parts?

Lastly, do I need to replace the thermostat or just rerun the old one? Do I need to grab a Toyota one or just get it at one of the autoparts stores?



‘82 Toyota RN38, mostly stock

Snowtoy

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Re: Coolant flush questions
« Reply #1 on: Oct 11, 2020, 12:51:48 PM »
I would just go with the directions on the flush bottle.

Due to not knowing the age of the current t-stat, I would go ahead and replace it with a new Toyota one, and not a parts store one, most end up with coolant temp issues running a parts store t-stat.
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The money pit '87 Supra resto/mod

Groundpounder17 [OP]

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Re: Coolant flush questions
« Reply #2 on: Oct 11, 2020, 01:15:38 PM »
I would just go with the directions on the flush bottle.

Due to not knowing the age of the current t-stat, I would go ahead and replace it with a new Toyota one, and not a parts store one, most end up with coolant temp issues running a parts store t-stat.

Thanks Snowtoy.  The instructions on the bottle are just for flushing the radiator. While I’m at it I want to go ahead and do an engine flush.  I always prefer Toyota parts but my local dealer sucks and they have to order one plus they are way overpriced.  I usually always just order from McGeorge Toyota but it takes a while to get here.

Since it looks like I’ll need to order a thermostat should I go back with the original or should I get the 2 stage they offered on some later models?  Also mine has the paper gasket so do I need to just order that gasket or will I also need to order the rubber as well?
‘82 Toyota RN38, mostly stock

emsvitil

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Re: Coolant flush questions
« Reply #3 on: Oct 11, 2020, 01:31:28 PM »
I just spent a week flushing out the cooling system on a Ford Focus..............

First 3 flushes I captured and just did a idle warm up.     (Then took anti-freeze to hazardous waste)

Then I'd fill with water, drive a day, drain at night; for 3 days.   (I'd just dump the 'water' on a bush)

Then I added the flushing chemicals and did 4 hours of driving.

Then 4 more water flushes.

Then compute how much full strength anti-freeze I need to get 50/50 mixture given cooling capacity.  (there's always water left in the block, so 50/50 will be diluted).      Top off with water.
Ed
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Groundpounder17 [OP]

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Re: Coolant flush questions
« Reply #4 on: Oct 11, 2020, 02:04:16 PM »
I just spent a week flushing out the cooling system on a Ford Focus..............

First 3 flushes I captured and just did a idle warm up.     (Then took anti-freeze to hazardous waste)

Then I'd fill with water, drive a day, drain at night; for 3 days.   (I'd just dump the 'water' on a bush)

Then I added the flushing chemicals and did 4 hours of driving.

Then 4 more water flushes.

Then compute how much full strength anti-freeze I need to get 50/50 mixture given cooling capacity.  (there's always water left in the block, so 50/50 will be diluted).      Top off with water.

The first three flushes I take it you only used water?
‘82 Toyota RN38, mostly stock

Snowtoy

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Re: Coolant flush questions
« Reply #5 on: Oct 11, 2020, 02:43:17 PM »
models?  Also mine has the paper gasket so do I need to just order that gasket or will I also need to order the rubber as well?

It looks like Toyota offers just the one now, 90916-03078 replaces 90916-03076, which I believe is the original part number for your '82.

Based on the diagram here, it looks like your '82 uses both gaskets.
https://toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com/oem-parts/toyota-engine-coolant-thermostat-9091603078


$30+ shipped is about right from the dealer, I think I paid about $20 for just the T-stat alone for the last one I bought from my local dealer, and $4 for the rubber gasket.  It looks like RockAuto now sells AISIN parts as well, might order one and see what it looks like.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,1982,pickup,2.4l+l4,1277153,cooling+system,thermostat,2200
'90 black X-cab mod'd 3.0, 33's/4.88's, rear ARB, custom bumpers, sliders, safari rack, etc.
'91 Blue X-cab 22re, 35's/5.29's,Truetrac front, ARB rear, dual cases, and custom Safari flatbed, bumper, interior.
The money pit '87 Supra resto/mod

Groundpounder17 [OP]

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Re: Coolant flush questions
« Reply #6 on: Oct 11, 2020, 03:18:32 PM »
It looks like Toyota offers just the one now, 90916-03078 replaces 90916-03076, which I believe is the original part number for your '82.

Based on the diagram here, it looks like your '82 uses both gaskets.
https://toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com/oem-parts/toyota-engine-coolant-thermostat-9091603078


$30+ shipped is about right from the dealer, I think I paid about $20 for just the T-stat alone for the last one I bought from my local dealer, and $4 for the rubber gasket.  It looks like RockAuto now sells AISIN parts as well, might order one and see what it looks like.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,1982,pickup,2.4l+l4,1277153,cooling+system,thermostat,2200

That’s the parts I was looking at but I was looking at a different diagram.  In some of the later models Toyota also offered a 2 stage thermostat that I know of at least one person running, part # 90916-03070.   Some of the engine shops also sell this one as an upgrade, but I’m not quite sure how it’s an upgrade or what the purpose is for switching.
‘82 Toyota RN38, mostly stock

Snowtoy

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Re: Coolant flush questions
« Reply #7 on: Oct 11, 2020, 03:40:17 PM »
Found the t-stat for $19 on Walmart.com, with free shipping.

Not sure what issue the upgraded one is meant to resolve, haven't ever had an issue with the oem one in 115* CA valley heat or single digit temps in the winter, it looks like it has a mini-T stat built in.

« Last Edit: Oct 11, 2020, 03:46:28 PM by Snowtoy »
'90 black X-cab mod'd 3.0, 33's/4.88's, rear ARB, custom bumpers, sliders, safari rack, etc.
'91 Blue X-cab 22re, 35's/5.29's,Truetrac front, ARB rear, dual cases, and custom Safari flatbed, bumper, interior.
The money pit '87 Supra resto/mod

emsvitil

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Re: Coolant flush questions
« Reply #8 on: Oct 11, 2020, 03:53:20 PM »
The first three flushes I take it you only used water?

Yes

Leave the thermostat in.     Hot water cleans better.     Flush with old thermostat (and water pump if you'll be changing that too)

Ed
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86 SR5 XtraCab
22RE  W56B
31x10.50R15

Groundpounder17 [OP]

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Re: Coolant flush questions
« Reply #9 on: Oct 11, 2020, 04:30:31 PM »
Yes

Leave the thermostat in.     Hot water cleans better.     Flush with old thermostat (and water pump if you'll be changing that too)

Thanks, emsvitil.  I plan on rebuilding my engine in the next year so I think I’ll just do the flush for now, but I will go ahead and have a new thermostat on hand in case I need it. When I rebuild then I’ll replace things like the water pump
‘82 Toyota RN38, mostly stock

Groundpounder17 [OP]

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Re: Coolant flush questions
« Reply #10 on: Oct 11, 2020, 04:31:46 PM »
Found the t-stat for $19 on Walmart.com, with free shipping.

Not sure what issue the upgraded one is meant to resolve, haven't ever had an issue with the oem one in 115* CA valley heat or single digit temps in the winter, it looks like it has a mini-T stat built in.

I couldn’t figure it out either. I’m going to go ahead and order a stock one
‘82 Toyota RN38, mostly stock

 
 
 
 
 

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