0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
Jesus FML I give up
Found the answer https://youtu.be/wy9Y8FjTIb8https://youtu.be/_EGpF-fj-5cFeel free the thank MeThank You for helping Me learn something newI would encourage You to take the time to call your dealership and tell them what You learned.The good and the bad. It’s the only way to be.I hope this settles the debate
Ironic coming from the guy that said "It is caused by a small amount of combustion gasses leaking past the sealing material between the ceramic and the steel shell."and"It's equally important to set the record strait so others don't run around with fake news."and"The sealed area between the Ceramic and the steel is an imperfect seal. I can sense that You have a lot of emotion invested in this issue and have Your heals dug in. My guess would be that no matter what I show You there will be no convincing You of anything other than what You think is correct."and then posted a video that states: "Corona stain is completely normal and should not be mistaken for exhaust gas blow-by or broken seals inside the spark plug"
They're showing corona stain as an even discoloration.So, I would assume if it's streaky, it's exhaust leakage..... (along with some corona staining)
The carbon could be the 'wrong' charge and not stick to the ceramic.The streaks could be an 'inverse' relationship. Where it's cleanest (no staining) is where the exhaust gas is exiting. The exhaust gas is blowing away anything that could stain the ceramic.I think those plugs were getting both the corona staining (learned something there) and exhaust leaking.
The core of the spark plug has a very high charge (not sure if it's negative or positive in relation to engine). Then there's an insulator of the ceramic.So what you have is a capacitor.Any ions of charge opposite the spark plug core are going to be attracted to the core, but the ceramic is in the wayThat's the corona staining, no harm no foul.Corona arcing is where you have a carbon trail, and current can actually flow. Short circuiting current to the plug gap.
Maybe read the rest of my statements.Instead of picking sections to make Me look bad.You spelling Nazi
Bgen...Jesus probably had nothing to do with the discolored spark plugs.While I like to discuss facts vs. opinions, and actuality vs. speculation... this is a typical example of 300k's compulsion with sarcastic discourse. I think Bgen is right on, and took some time to post what he already knew, or Googled it and found some the information online. Bgen's contributions here have been outstanding and very informative. This forum or sandbox would not be the same without him. Gnarls.
Wheel barrow of brown on Gnarls' nose!
Found the answer Feel free the thank MeThank You for helping Me learn something newI hope this settles the debate
Hi e,So.... if there is corona arcing causing the color, can we assume there is an issue, or failure, with the conductivity between the spark plug and plug wires, voltage, or coil?... and then how does this happen?Gnarls.
OK so now we see that the burns in the ceramic insulator is a normal thing over the life( like 120,000 miles) of the plugs. But do you agree that three months is short for the amount of burning?I changed the plugs because:1) Karen said that the 4runner was running poorly, hard to start and getting bad Mileage. 2) Testing with an Ohm Meter showed a short with a high resistance between the plug tip and the engine(ground). it should have no shorts3) when I pulled a plug and repeated the test the short was still there. . So it seems to still be fact that the plugs were damaged when they were over torqued, poor performance was caused by the damage and what is normal for a plug over 120K mikes was caused by voltage leakage.
So you are saying that there was continuity between the tip and the body of the plug?
Yes. Ranging from a couple hundred ohms to a couple Thousand ohms. The reading should be INFINITY on the meter, as in an open circuit because the voltage of the meter is not enough to jump the 0.043" gap.
If this was true the spark plug would not fire at all, causing a continued misfire on that cylinder.Was there a check engine light with missfire codes? Was the engine missing a cylinder or multiple cylinders?This would be obvious and the engine/ vehicle would be shaking.Electricity follows the path of least resistance. Any continuity between the tip and the body of the plug would be much less than jumping the gap of the spark plug.Are you sure you were performing the test correctly?Can you reperform the test with the spark plug removed to validate the test?On all the plugs please
Hmmm.... When I tested I got this....on two plugs, one from my Camry with gobs of mileage, and one from my truck with only a few miles on them. There was zero ohms between the terminal tip of the plug and the tip of the center electrode (unless the plugs are resistor type, then there will be some resistance, probably in the K range). There was zero ohms between the tip of the center electrode and the body.At my engine .... there was zero ohms from the terminal tip of the plug to the engine block, and zero ohms from the body of the plug to the engine block. Obviously when I set my DOM to "OPEN" and probed the plug body and the engine block, of course I got a "short".Gnarls.
Was there a check engine light with missfire codes? Was the engine missing a cylinder or multiple cylinders?This would be obvious and the engine/ vehicle would be shaking.Electricity follows the path of least resistance. Any continuity between the tip and the body of the plug would be much less than jumping the gap of the spark plug.Are you sure you were performing the test correctly?Can you reperform the test with the spark plug removed to validate the test?On all the plugs please
Missfires are calculated by variations in the crankshaft speed.So your claiming weak spark as the cause for the concerns?This would result in a lean or rich mixture that I would think would set a code?Did all of the spark plugs fail your tests?Yet no missfires, lean or rich conditions?If this is the case how could the engine experience a hard starting, poor running, and poor mileage condition?I give upThis just doesn’t add up to MeWhat year is the vehicle?
A/f ratio changes will trigger a rich or lean code due to fuel trim correction.The Ecu has a very limited amount of correction before setting a code.Is the issue still present?This sounds like a case of bad fuel?
The only thing that fixed the problem was new plugs. old plugs ( only three months old) showed a high Ohm short and Coronal burns. The burns as you have pointed out is not out of the ordinary "IF" the plugs the plugs have been in use for around 120K miles .
Hey V-Man,If the bad plugs were only about 3 months old (perhaps less than 5,000 miles on the new spark plugs?), what do you think caused the failure?Could there be more than 4 possibilities?1- They were defective out of the box which caused a premature failure?2- They were incorrectly over-torqued during installation?3- An electrical anomaly that caused spark plugs to fail prematurely?4- A combination of several factors?Gnarls.
Started by BigMike
1989-1995: How-To Guides
Started by Yota87Truck
Chit Chat Camp
Started by acerbis
Toyota Pickup/4Runner Tech 1979-95
Started by emsvitil
Toyota Pickup/4Runner Tech 1979-95
Started by Michael Wollinsky
Toyota Pickup/4Runner Tech 1979-95