Topic: locker opinion: ARB vs Eaton Harrop e-locker

[lone walker]

ARB is definitely a stronger setup.

EATON Harrop elocker is probably less maintenance and engage setup it probably easier (just +/- and a switch)

Which of the two do you prefer?

[toyodaaddict]

I haven't personally owned either. I've been going back and forth between ARB and Toyota Elocker for the rear.  I have decided on an ARB for up front

[lone walker [OP]]

Are factory toyota 8" elocker not as strong as harrop? Toyota can be manually lock, harrop can't be. Anyone here have experience with harrop?

Did some researching, most site user stated 37" tires will be a push for 8" elocker and will not recommend any bigger. And got those that run taller tires have ran into issue with the 8" elocker.

[Snowtoy]

ARB is definitely a stronger setup.

Elocker is probably less maintenance and engage setup it probably easier (just +/- and a switch)

Which of the two do you prefer?

Nothing really extra to maintain w/an ARB, have 13yrs on one and 10yrs on another, and nothing has needed servicing or replacing of parts on either one.

If you go with the ARB's, you should carry a spare solenoid, diff-to-line fitting, some extra line and quick repair fittings.

The main issue I have seen with ARB's on the trail is from installer error when running the airlines, either too close to heat sources or getting snagged on something.  I run mine zip tied to the diff breather lines and have yet to have one get snagged.

[:)bestgen4runner]

Only issue I see with an ARB is cost. Ouch! 
Toyota E-lockers are great because of cost. $300 to $400. 

I would prefer an ARB hands down. My front ARB has been flawless. 

I also feel that it's important to exercise the locker now and then.  keeps everything moving freely and avoids potential issues. 

[toyodaaddict]

Just about everything Ive read says that ARB is the stronger unit and has better engagement. The reason I'm considering running an ARB front, elocker rear is to have two different systems, with the idea that if one goes down the other will still work. All the people talking about ARB issues holding them up on the trail has me scared  I also dont like the idea of listening to a compressor buzz all the time when the rear is engaged. It would be a lot simpler to just go with ARB front and rear though.

[lone walker [OP]]

I had two different truck years ago, a runner with f&r arb and a truck with rear elocker front arb.  And on both rig, they leak. The compressor drove me nuts on the trail. The runner rear setup leak and both was installed new, had no issue until ~3 years later.

But what I was comparing the arb to, is not the toyota elocker. I was hoping someone had experience with arb and harrop elocker, not toyota elocker.

Most link I read, people somehow don't recommend running larger then 37 on toyota 8" elocker even tho I know a few guys locally who are running 39/40 with toyota elocker, but really baby them when in use. I was hoping someone can chime in regarding the harrop elocker.

[emsvitil]

Toyota E-lockers are great because of cost. $300 to $400. 

Where and How ?

[Mudder]

Most people don't have experience with the Harrop because of the cost and they are relatively new to the US market.

[toyodaaddict]

Where and How ?

I See em on CL all the time in this price range. Adding aftermarket gearing kicks the cost way up.

[4Ruinned]

I have dealt with leaking air lockers and if I was to start over I would go toyota elocker. the harrop elocker has a major flaw, it unlocks when changing direction(forward /reverse)  until at least half a revolution of the tire and then locks again. no thanks. waay to expensive to have limitations. I would only consider it for the front,  if at all.

I'm running Toyota E-lockers and I'm having problems with my rear actuator. I knew some Air lockers develop leaks so I was considering selling all my Toyota e-locker stuff and buy a pair of Harrops but I did not know they had that flaw. No system is perfect I guess, thanks for that info Liveoak, I guess I'll keep the e-lockers I already have then.

[lone walker [OP]]

Thanks liveoak for the info. I wonder if toyota elocker are designed differently, to not have that flaw when switching from drive to reverse. Something to put into consideration.

ARB is probably not an option for me since I had issue with them on both my rig and know other rig with arb in toyota and dana axle that leaks.

Probably will still prefer a 9.5 LC F&R harrop elocker over a toyota 8" elocker F&R. truck will not a dedicated crawler, but will see a fair share of rock. I wouldn't mind the factory LC rear locker for both F&R but too hard to find and price sitting between 800 to 1000 buck, might as well go harrop.

[OOPS]

If you are having problems with ARB's leaking it is installer error. I have never had a leaking problem and have been running them F&R since 98.

[Gnarly4X]

If you are having problems with ARB's leaking it is installer error. I have never had a leaking problem and have been running them F&R since 98.

Hey OOPS,

I always enjoy your posts, and I know you’ve been on Earth for awhile.

But I think there’s enough history with the ARBs to indicate that they have or had an inherent failure-prone design.  The guys I ran with that installed ARBs had problems and it wasn’t because of installer error – some the guys actually took steps above the recommended install instructions and were top notch mechanics and had the time and money to do everything right.

I have never had an ARB.  But that’s just my experience with the guys I know who installed them.

Gnarls.

[SqWADoosh]

The Toyota E-Locker is plenty strong. I ran them front and rear on very heavy 37" tires and they did great. The bad rap they get is from people not utilizing the proper length shafts to engage the side gears fully. When you use the correct shafts they are the best locker option for the 8". Mine instantly locked up, never let me down (except for my dumbass frying an actuator when I had an exposed wire and actuated it underwater), the actuators are easy as hell to rebuild (literally a 30 minute job), and one of the biggest bonuses is the fact that you can pull your actuator off with a couple of bolts and manually lock and unlock the locker if the actuator ever has a problem. I wish there was a Dana equivalent as I would be running it in my new truck's axles.

If you don't believe me then reach out to Zuk of gearinstalls.com. No one knows Toyota 3rds better than him and he'll tell you the same thing.

[:)bestgen4runner]

I feel You are leaving out part of Your E-locker story? 

[SqWADoosh]

I feel You are leaving out part of Your E-locker story? 

What part would that be?

[SqWADoosh]

The only thing I can think of that you may be referencing would be my axle break with which my e-locker had nothing to do with. My axle sheared clean at the taper.

[:)bestgen4runner]

Yes, all of that is correct. 
The diff did not survive the broken axle experience. Might be an important piece of the puzzle. still left that out.
Maybe You forgot?   
The Arb is capable of surviving a broken axle no problem. 
Proof https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z6dxjmv4YAo
Another feather in the cap of the Arb.

[daniresch]

Good point :)bestgen4runner. If memory serves me right, I believe OOPS broke a rear axle shaft years ago and currently still runs the same ARB.

I quoted him in hope he sees the notification and can verify that.

If you are having problems with ARB's leaking it is installer error. I have never had a leaking problem and have been running them F&R since 98.

[joeyf]

Detroit's front and rear for years. Road manners have never been bad enough to wont to change. The only reason I went to a arb up front is, after 10 years I broke the Detroit.

[SqWADoosh]

Yes, all of that is correct. 
The diff did not survive the broken axle experience. Might be an important piece of the puzzle. still left that out.
Maybe You forgot?   
The Arb is capable of surviving a broken axle no problem. 
Proof https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z6dxjmv4YAo
Another feather in the cap of the Arb.

The diff took a because I didn't remove it and check for debris from the shaft break and if it took anything with it. The locker functioned perfectly after the break. That was me being lazy and cheap. Nothing more.

[daniresch]

I currently own both E-locker and ARB on separate vehicles, so I feel I have a pretty non-bias opinion to this question. Most reasons of their pros and cons have already been listed. Here are a few reiterated, and a few that haven’t been mentioned. IMO, ARB is ideal for rock crawling, but E-locker can work great for a DD/weekend warrior.

Reasons why I like ARB:
Proven to be stronger than E-locker
Locker instantly engages with a flick of a switch at idle (My E-locker currently takes ½ to a full tire rotation to engage, the same goes for disengagement)
Don’t need to run a modified axle housing, or acquire a E-locker specific housing. (if anything breaks with an e-locker, you have no luck trying to put a spare 3rd member in there) (Or if you decide to sell the vehicle, you don’t have the option of easily installing open differentials and keeping your investment)
No electrical wires to worry about when axle is under water or wet.
No actuator hanging on the side of the axle in a vulnerable location. (This is a big one for me, and very expensive to replace)
The median/large ARB air compressors are multi-functional

Reasons why I like E-locker:
Lower Cost
In a pinch, can manually unlock and lock diff with actuator removed. (this would never be much of an issue with an ARB though because the locker will naturally disengage if anything should happen. I’m not sure why you’d want to go through the hassle of engaging a locker in a middle of the trail by removing the actuator, but still a nice benefit)

[:)bestgen4runner]

I had my original front ARB installed at all pro in 1999 and has not leaked until this year. It was not installer error. The collar orings finally gave out. Just because you haven't had a problem yet, doesn't mean you'll never have a problem.

17+ years of offroad use and they finally failed. Piece of if You ask Me. 
I replaced my O-rings also, I think they cost me ?? maybe $5.00 each including shipping.
Labor is another story, that could be quite expensive for anyone who takes there vehicle to a shop for repairs. 

[Willard]

If you are having problems with ARB's leaking it is installer error. I have never had a leaking problem and have been running them F&R since 98.

This is a legit statement.


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[toyodaaddict]

17+ years of offroad use and they finally failed. Piece of if You ask Me. 
I replaced my O-rings also, I think they cost me ?? maybe $5.00 each including shipping.
Labor is another story, that could be quite expensive for anyone who takes there vehicle to a shop for repairs. 

Isn't it correct that just about anyone can replace the o rings on the toy 8" ARB without any real skill or knowledge of diff building ?  Before buying the ARB's for my dads 4runner,  I looked into it and the o rings looked pretty straight forward.  I dont know how to setup diffs and cant afford to learn through trial and error. Having to rely on someone else to replace o rings would be a deal killer. Even if I could only get 2-3 leak free years out of a set of o rings Id be fine with that, as long as I could replace them my self

[emsvitil]

The Toyota E-Locker is plenty strong. I ran them front and rear on very heavy 37" tires and they did great. The bad rap they get is from people not utilizing the proper length shafts to engage the side gears fully. When you use the correct shafts they are the best locker option for the 8". Mine instantly locked up, never let me down (except for my dumbass frying an actuator when I had an exposed wire and actuated it underwater), the actuators are easy as hell to rebuild (literally a 30 minute job), and one of the biggest bonuses is the fact that you can pull your actuator off with a couple of bolts and manually lock and unlock the locker if the actuator ever has a problem. I wish there was a Dana equivalent as I would be running it in my new truck's axles.

If you don't believe me then reach out to Zuk of gearinstalls.com. No one knows Toyota 3rds better than him and he'll tell you the same thing.

Axle shafts?    Does that mean you have to replace your axle shafts if you retrofit the Toyota e-locker in a standard 8" axle?

[:)bestgen4runner]

Axle shafts?    Does that mean you have to replace your axle shafts if you retrofit the Toyota e-locker in a standard 8" axle?

Solid point!
so an E-locker requires axles replaced. Deal breaker! 

Isn't it correct that just about anyone can replace the o rings on the toy 8" ARB without any real skill or knowledge of diff building ?  Before buying the ARB's for my dads 4runner,  I looked into it and the o rings looked pretty straight forward.  I dont know how to setup diffs and cant afford to learn through trial and error. Having to rely on someone else to replace o rings would be a deal killer. Even if I could only get 2-3 leak free years out of a set of o rings Id be fine with that, as long as I could replace them my self

Yep, If you can pull a third member you can replaced the O-rings yourself no problem. one clip and your in. Easy as Pie! 

[Willard]

Solid point!
so an E-locker requires axles replaced. Deal breaker! 
Yep, If you can pull a third member you can replaced the O-rings yourself no problem. one clip and your in. Easy as Pie! 

As long as you have experience setting up carrier bearing pre-load which is the leading cause to ARB's seals leaking.......it needs to be set properly or you will have pre mature failure which is most likely the reason for the story's of ARB being horrid.


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[:)bestgen4runner]

As long as you have experience setting up carrier bearing pre-load which is the leading cause to ARB's seals leaking.......it needs to be set properly or you will have pre mature failure which is most likely the reason for the story's of ARB being horrid.


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No need to mess with any of that. One clip and the seals come right out. replace the two seals reinstall the clip. poof!
magic! all done!