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ARB is definitely a stronger setup. Elocker is probably less maintenance and engage setup it probably easier (just +/- and a switch)Which of the two do you prefer?
Toyota E-lockers are great because of cost. $300 to $400.
Where and How ?
I have dealt with leaking air lockers and if I was to start over I would go toyota elocker. the harrop elocker has a major flaw, it unlocks when changing direction(forward /reverse) until at least half a revolution of the tire and then locks again. no thanks. waay to expensive to have limitations. I would only consider it for the front, if at all.
If you are having problems with ARB's leaking it is installer error. I have never had a leaking problem and have been running them F&R since 98.
I feel You are leaving out part of Your E-locker story?
Yes, all of that is correct. The diff did not survive the broken axle experience. Might be an important piece of the puzzle. still left that out. Maybe You forgot? The Arb is capable of surviving a broken axle no problem. Proof https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z6dxjmv4YAoAnother feather in the cap of the Arb.
I had my original front ARB installed at all pro in 1999 and has not leaked until this year. It was not installer error. The collar orings finally gave out. Just because you haven't had a problem yet, doesn't mean you'll never have a problem.
17+ years of offroad use and they finally failed. Piece of if You ask Me. I replaced my O-rings also, I think they cost me ?? maybe $5.00 each including shipping.Labor is another story, that could be quite expensive for anyone who takes there vehicle to a shop for repairs.
The Toyota E-Locker is plenty strong. I ran them front and rear on very heavy 37" tires and they did great. The bad rap they get is from people not utilizing the proper length shafts to engage the side gears fully. When you use the correct shafts they are the best locker option for the 8". Mine instantly locked up, never let me down (except for my dumbass frying an actuator when I had an exposed wire and actuated it underwater), the actuators are easy as hell to rebuild (literally a 30 minute job), and one of the biggest bonuses is the fact that you can pull your actuator off with a couple of bolts and manually lock and unlock the locker if the actuator ever has a problem. I wish there was a Dana equivalent as I would be running it in my new truck's axles.If you don't believe me then reach out to Zuk of gearinstalls.com. No one knows Toyota 3rds better than him and he'll tell you the same thing.
Axle shafts? Does that mean you have to replace your axle shafts if you retrofit the Toyota e-locker in a standard 8" axle?
Isn't it correct that just about anyone can replace the o rings on the toy 8" ARB without any real skill or knowledge of diff building ? Before buying the ARB's for my dads 4runner, I looked into it and the o rings looked pretty straight forward. I dont know how to setup diffs and cant afford to learn through trial and error. Having to rely on someone else to replace o rings would be a deal killer. Even if I could only get 2-3 leak free years out of a set of o rings Id be fine with that, as long as I could replace them my self
Solid point!so an E-locker requires axles replaced. Deal breaker! Yep, If you can pull a third member you can replaced the O-rings yourself no problem. one clip and your in. Easy as Pie!
As long as you have experience setting up carrier bearing pre-load which is the leading cause to ARB's seals leaking.......it needs to be set properly or you will have pre mature failure which is most likely the reason for the story's of ARB being horrid. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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