Topic: 84 build on the cheap side

[valon5150]

well I had an 01 tacoma that had long term plans of being SAS'd...but due to my stupidity I wrecked it over the summer. So I got an 84 standard cab 22R 5spd from a buddies dad with plans of making it a decent wheeler but still a reasonable DD till I can afford something else to DD. the build has been entirely funded by parting out my wrecked tacoma.

I am new to the old solid axle toyotas so any advice from you guys or input on what I am doing would be really appreciated

So far I have gotten some 35 KM2's, bobbed the bed 15", made a rear bumper, shortened the sliders off my tacoma to fit, and done 63" chevys. partially done with a front bumper. also made a little bed rack to hold spare tire and hilift. my chevys lifted the truck  1 3/4" with a 6" shackle.




Got the 35's first



Made detachable mud flaps




Right now I am getting everything together and fabbed up to do RUF. So far I have Highsteer (picked up brand new trail gear kit for $280) got IFS box along with pump and reservoir and extra pully from a truck getting parted out locally, along with used F150 shock towers, brake lines, picked up a flat pitman arm too. Just finished making the front hanger today it is about a 1" drop hanger aiming to move the springs forward about 1.5". gonna do re enforcement plates for the IFS box this weekend. Planning on using the stock shackles right off the bat and then make my own if need be. I'm waiting on some shocks to arrive next week and then I will probably begin the swap.

 got a pair of rear leaf packs from an 89 that I have combined with my stock 84 pack. I used the 2nd and 3rd leafs from the 89 and cut them down, so I currently have a 5 leaf pack. Just from standing up on one I am thinking they will be too stiff. my goal is only 2" of lift at most. But I can play with them more once I have them under the truck.







Me motorboatin  in the little seasonal pond at my place



About 99% of the time I drive around with some old 30" at's and treat it like a ranch truck



after the RUF I will be throwing my tacomas Elocker axle in the rear. might happen before if I run out of stuff to do this weekend. Then I want to experiment with welding the 3rd member out of the stock rear axle and see how I like having a welded front. and 4.7 tcase gears eventually.

my goal is to buy as many parts used or at a discounted price and fab up all parts that I can with my limited tool supply and skill and have a fun reliable rig

[Cheesemaker]

I'd use the E-locker up front, and weld the rear. 

[valon5150 [OP]]

I'd use the E-locker up front, and weld the rear.

I really want a selectable locker rear though. my taco had that and a aussie locker front. If it wasn't a DD i would consider welding front and rear. but for a DD i want a rig with a selectable rear. I have too many 200-300 mile trips to want a full time time locked rear end.

[valon5150 [OP]]

I'd use the E-locker up front, and weld the rear.

But if you have a good reason to put it into my front axle instead of putting the whole axle in the rear please elaborate. Remember this is my DD. I need something i can drive everyday and not eat up my AT tires.

[Cheesemaker]

A selectable on the front, will allow easier steering when you don't need to be locked up.  If your front diff is locked, it puts alot of added strain on your steering parts, to the point that steering is really tough, and the only way to combat that, would be to unlock one hub.  Or go with Hydro assist steering.

 
Here is a basic layout of a turning radius.



Basically, look at the lines in a basic left and right line, in a right hand turn with your front diff in a "open" position, the right tire will go a shorter distance (rotates less) than the left tire (which rotates more).  The tighter the turn, the greater the amount of travel difference between the tires.  Now, if your diff is locked, both tires will want to go at the same rate of speed.  When you try to turn, the axle will fight you and want to keep going straight.  Why?  Because both tires are locked together, and will want to travel at the same speed, wanting to go straight.  Now, when you force the steering wheel to turn the tires, your putting GREAT amount of pressure on your steering box mount, linkages, TRE's and steering arms.  And then there's the force through your axles trying to drive your wheels.  Because both tires want to rotate at the same speed, but your forcing them to rotate at different speeds, now the added torque is put on the diff, axles, birf, and hubs. 
Where as fully locked in the rear, will put a load on diff, axle shafts, and tires.  Generally, the tires are the one that takes the brunt of it, by wearing out faster.   I'd rather have my rear tires wear out faster, than have my entire front end get hammered, and have to worry about breaking off steering arm, cracking the frame, or blowing a birf, just on a simple drive. 

Hopefully this helps..

[spuds015]

 

[valon5150 [OP]]

RUF done!

Replaced my inner seals while the axle was out and cleaned out and re greased my birfs.





moved the axle 3.75" forward





and made square driveshaft. super easy and cheap





I lengthened my rear shackles by 1.5" to level it out.



still has more to droop but i couldn't get any further up the bank. need to put my elocker in the rear.

Rides great now with power steering. straight and smooth unlike with the old push pull

[valon5150 [OP]]

Measured and I have a 23.5" frame height. Was hoping to keep it at or just under 23 but for my first time I guess it's not too bad.

[pumkin toy]

looking good man

[tgmaul88]

how do you like those f250 shock towers?

[valon5150 [OP]]

looking good man

Thanks

how do you like those f250 shock towers?

They're okay. kind of a pain in the ass. to get the shocks up high enough i ended welding a piece of 2x6 coming up about 2" about the frame and then welded the towers to them so i would end up with more then 1/2" of weld on the towers. They work well though and i got them for 20 bucks

[1985CRAWLER]

20 bucks for the towers?where? where? or was that deal just for you only. do you think they can work without welding the 2" piece of steel?Im thinking about going to them.I hate the short stock towers.

[valon5150 [OP]]

i cut them off a badly built toyota that was getting parted out. so i had to put some time in to clean them up. Yeah they would fit without spacers easy depending on how long of shocks and how high you are lifting. my front is at 23 1/4" frame with 14 inch shocks and i have around 4" up travel. if i had lifted it a couple more inches it would have fit better and also if i used 12" shocks. but i think if i did it over i would just buy shock hoops or pay someone to get some tube bent to what i wanted

[valon5150 [OP]]

got a package of new shims and adjusted my preload last night. Now my truck doesnt vibrate and shake anymore 

Started this over the weekend.







almost done with the tailgate. need to get some more bondo, the old stuff i had was no good.


Got my IFS rear axle modified to take the elocker 3rd and put that in the rear, all wired up and works great.

ran into a problem with my front suspension. Stock shackles are limiting flex, have about 4" to go on shocks, and also drag link it hitting leaf on passenger side when drooped out. So i'm going to make some 5" shackles and pull my bottom leaf. thinking the shackle length should let me utilize my entire shock travel and hoping pulling a leaf will give enough room to flex more without the drag link stopping the leaf.

Pics this weekend maybe...oh yeah, going to pick up a tcase with 4.7s in it saturday 

[pumkin toy]

sweet! sounds like you are moving along with some good mods

[valon5150 [OP]]

sweet! sounds like you are moving along with some good mods

thanks, yeah been trying to keep my ass working on the truck lately. got to get it ready for moonrocks end of april