Topic: Rear pinion angle

[toyhatsu]

I am wondering what is the maximum pinion angle that I can use which will still allow the pinion bearing to be lubricated?  I ordered Marlin's spring perches to rotate my pinion and the pinion is now at about 33* with everything bolted finger tight.  I can probably lower it another inch or so but when I left the garage it looked like a ridiculous angle.

[toyhatsu [OP]]

more pics

[shortbus]

 That pinion angle looks WAY to high to me. Are you running a cv shaft or just a regular drive shaft?

[BigMike]

Hey toyhatsu-

You gotta also consider that the angle should not be pointing to the transfercase when the truck is at rest, but it should be that under about the most suspension travel that you expect to get, that's when you want the diff to be pointing straight at the tcase. So keep it a bit pointed just below the tcase and you'll be fine

From the pinion_angle640.JPG pic, it actually looks like its pointing above the tcase output flange..

Sorry I cant help ya about the oiling question, I have no idea

[toyhatsu [OP]]

shortbus:  Yes I will use a "short" Toyota CV shaft.

BigMike:  After looking at the pics of Friday's work I believe that you are right that the pinion is pointing above the xfer case.  I worked 10 hour days last week and have been working 2 hours on the truck after work.  RockWare lets me in as they own that bay also but have been leasing it out.  I really don't know what I am doing but am giving it a try.  I was too tired and depressed when I left on Friday.  Kyle, who was supposed to be doing the work hasn't paid on his lease from RockWare for months and Friday I found out that the loaner Jeep actually belongs to someone else and he wants it back on Monday.  Kyle wasn't paying him either...back to walking and bumming rides.  I am so tired of this.  If I hadn't paid Kyle the $2500.00 I could buy a junker to get me back and forth to work and be able to pay someone else to help with the work.

I still have to shorten the rear drive shaft, all wiring, power steering lines, cut holes for shifters, modify tranny shifter, brake lines, proportioning valve, exhaust, clutch linkage....

After doing some research I think that I might be OK in lowering the pinion to around 20* and over filling the third throught the vent in the housing.  Overfilling just enough to sling the gear oil up to the bearing and not puke oil out the vent tube when the diff. warms up.

[WHITE_TRASH]

As a general rule you want at least 2 degrees less angle on the pinion.  Put a straight edge on the diff flange and see how it points at the t-case.  You want the diff to point about 1/2" lower than the t-case output.

[BigMike]

.............I am so tired of this. If I hadn't paid Kyle the $2500.00 I could buy a junker to get me back and forth to work.....................

Damn. You paid him before he finished the job... that a-hole better finish what he said he would

[toyhatsu [OP]]

Thanks WHITE_TRASH,

I sure wish that I lived close to you as I would gladly pay your to finish it for me!!!!  I think that I'll be OK on the pinion bearing getting oil.  I have a Harbor Freight angle finder and I'll have to use the dead blow to knock down the pinion till it points at the output flange and then go 2* more.  I think that I wouldn't be over filling the diff but at that angle the only way to get the correct amount of gear oil in is to put it in through the top.

BigMike,

Yep I am stupid.  I know that you didn't say that but I am.  He has several people with rigs that he was supposed to work on very upset with him...besides not paying rent.  I imagine that he can file for bank ruptcy and be free and clear.  I will file a complaint with the Better Business Bureau.

Thanks for your support and help.  I have to figure out how I am going to get to work next week. 

[WHITE_TRASH]

Your drawing is rather inaccurate.  Your rear springs have negative, not possitive arch to them.   But you have the idea down correctly.  It should be fine how you drew it but one thing that needs to be considered is how stiff are the rear springs?  If they are very soft and twist up you'll need a bit more downward turn.

[toyhatsu [OP]]

Your drawing is rather inaccurate.  Your rear springs have negative, not possitive arch to them.

Ha they were fine till I had to drive around for two weeks with the 3RZ and a tranny in the back.  I do have some 4044's, a set of `86 Toy rears and some XJ rears but this engine swap has been going on for such a long time that I haven't worried about the rear springs yet.

WT I did use a square and an angle finder tonight.  It read 25* at that point.  The top edge of the square was 1/2" from the bottom or the output flange.  I use all of my brains at work and when I get to the garage there are very few synapses that are working.  Is this OK the way I did this?

[toyhatsu [OP]]

Woohoo, I got some help tonight with the wiring

[WHITE_TRASH]

That should work out fine.  It will still have a bit of vibration when you put the new springs in it as the angles will change quite a bit with some arch.  Id change the springs before I burned the perches on.  It will save you from doing the job twice.