Author Topic: 4.3L TBI Wiring with 84 Pickup Wiring. Write up...  (Read 25770 times)

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COToy91

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here are those pics of my tcase. There is nothing attached to the speedo but there was another wire further up hopefully you can see it.
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werty [OP]

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Thats the reverse lights thanks for the reminder.

COToy91

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4wd light actually, reverse is on the driver side of the transmission. I found the VSS it was behind my gauge cluster hooked up there
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werty [OP]

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so I got the motor harness off and started to tear into it. my Fiance about kicked my A$$ when she came home and saw the mess.

werty [OP]

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The good.

werty [OP]

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garbage

werty [OP]

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Oh had to get this wired up too.

werty [OP]

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Its ready to go back on the motor to check the rewiring. then it will be installed in the truck and the rest of the 30 wires will be conected.

Wires that go to the toyota harness

brown/black. check engine light
grey. fuel pump
tan. oil light
green. temp sender
Alt wires
brake cut off for the transmision solniod purple to tranny. pink/white ingition
Got to find a way to wire up the park neutral switch.

werty [OP]

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4 hours laterthis is the end result.

toybuilt

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Wow right on. I started to do that same thing but I got flusterd and though it all out! Looks good :thumbs:
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werty [OP]

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Well I just am getting over the bad bacon that trough me in the hospital for a day. I got the computer mounted and 90% of the wires conected when I got sick. I found out that there is a 30 amp relay that i can use for the ingnitor that is switched ingnition from the old carb.

 Any one know what the 12g black/yel going to the bottom of the carb intake is for on a 22r???

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It might be a CMH (Cold Mixture Heater) relay.

It says here in my Haynes manual


  "To reduce cold engine emmisions and improve drivability, the intake manifold riseris heated by this system during cold engine operation to accelerate vaporization of the fuel.

  The system is composed of a thermo switch,  a CMH and a CMH relay, and is found on 1983 to 1988 vehicles only.

  With the engine running and the coolant below 109*F, the CMH relay is on and the CMH is heated. At approximately 131*F, the CMH system is completely off"




the wire to the CMH should be run through the ECU and it is a positive wire.
Hope this helps.

werty [OP]

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Thanks for the information. I got a 30 amp breaker for the ignition today and a new JIC 6 elbow for the hydro assist.

werty [OP]

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new carter fuel pump.

werty [OP]

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Everything is wired up. :inthedark: No trouble codes and everthing is fuctioning properly.

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werty [OP]

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Quote
Originally Posted by www.justih.com

I don't run the ign from the switch. Due to voltage drop I run all switched 12vdc thru the relay.

if you use a bosch style relay here are the pins:

30-12v fused input(should also hook up your org ECM constant 12v to this wire)
85- Gnd
86- 12vdc from ign sw(black wire that was hooked up to the coil +)
87- pink/blk, pink(ignition, ecm power)
87- red, white(injectors)

there are 2- 87 output terminals on the relay so you can use both.
There are several places the pink/blk branch off to.
I have also used a terminal strip and just run the sw 12vdc from the relay to the terminal strip and connect the other loads to it.

So to start out we will go right down the line in order.

A1- grn/wht- this wire is used to energize the fuel pump relay.
A2- not used
A3- not used
A4- gry- to EGR relay.(optional) This is a ground from the ECM to control the EGR relay.
A5- brn/wht- SES(service eng soon) light. This is a ground to turn on the light.
A6- pnk/blk- switched 12v from the ignition relay.
A7- not used
A8- orn- ALDL Serial data. This is your ALDL pin E data for your lap top.
A9- wht/blk- ALDL pin B diag mode. When jumpered to ground will set the ECM to ALDL diagnostic mode.
A10- brn- VSS speed sensor signal to the ECM (optional)
A11- ppl or blk- MAP sensor ground. See ECM ground thread.
A12- blk/wht- System ground. Can be tied with D1. Goes to engine ground.

B1- orn- 12v fused from battery. I use an inline fuse on this. It also ties into C16.
B2- tan/wht- Fuel pump signal from the relay. This one ties into several places, the fuel pump, the relay, and the ecm. When the relay is on it sends 12v thru this wire to turn on the fuel pump, at the same time it tells the ECM the fuel pump is on.
B3- blk/red- EST reference.
B4- not used
B5- ppl/wht- EST high reference
B6- not used
B7- blk- ESC signal This is the knock sensor signal to the ECM. The knock sensor circuit is optional. If not used, tie this wire to C14 the 5v reference.
B8- dk grn- AC signal. This tells the ECM that the AC is turned on. This can be used to set the idle speed higher when you turn the AC on. I use it to increase the idle when using the compressor for on board air. Same thing!! Just tie it to the wire going to the AC clutch.
B9- not used
B10-orn/blk- Park/Neutral sw. This is optional but I have hooked it into the park sw on the tranny. It tells the ECM when you are in Pk or N. It can be used to give a slight adjustment to idle speed when switching from park to drive and back.
B11- not used
B12- not used

C1- not used
C2- not used
C3- IAC- Idle air control
C4- IAC
C5- IAC
C6- IAC -The ECM controls the IAC motor. It adjust the amount of air that is bypassed around the butterflies to adjust the idle speed.
C7- not used
C8- not used
C9- ppl/wht- Starter crank signal. Goes to the small terminal of the starter. The stock scout wire is white that goes there. Tells the ECM you are trying to start the engine.
C10- yel- Temp sender signal
C11- lt grn- Map sensor signal
C12- not used
C13- dk blu- TPS sensor signal
C14- gry- 5v reference signal to map and TPS.
C15- grn- inj B ground signal. Most systems do not use this. It was used on some of the bigger engines to share the load of the injector signal.
C16- orn- fused 12v tied to B1

D1- blk/wht- System ground, ties to A12 and engine. See ECM ground thread.
D2- blk- Sensor ground. To eng.
D3- not used
D4- wht- EST control
D5- tan/blk- EST bypass. This is the wire that has a plug near the distr that you disconnect to set your timing.
D6- Tan- O2 ground to engine.
D7- ppl- O2 sensor signal
D8- D13 not used
D14- lt grn- Injector B ground signal
D15- blu- optional injector A ground signal
D16- blu- Injector A ground signal
And that's it.
If you sit down on your garage floor and have each sensor plugged into the harness, then trace each wire back to the ECM connector, you will be able to separate a lot of uneeded wires.
Once you have each wire identified and layed out, then you can set it up on the engine and start tailoring it to fit your engine.
Placement of the sensors will determine wire length. Most stock harnesses are plenty long and only need to be shortened or wrapped and bundled.
When I'm all done and it's running then I go back and reinstall the plastic loom over all the harness.


Awsome bit of information

werty [OP]

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Quote:
Originally Posted by www.justih.com    WERTY'S WAY IN "RED"
I don't run the ign from the switch. Due to voltage drop I run all switched 12vdc thru the relay.
I did voltage drop is not that bad.

10GA PINK WIRE I HOOKED UP TO THE CMH (Cold Mixture Heater) relay. THEN USED A 30AMP BREAKER IN-BETWEEN.
 THERE IS A BLUE WITH RED STRIPE THAT GOES TO GROUND HOOKED IN THIS RELAY That has to be cut from the computer conector for the smog computer



if you use a bosch style relay here are the pins:
30-12v fused input(should also hook up your org ECM constant 12v to this wire)
85- Gnd
86- 12vdc from ign sw(black wire that was hooked up to the coil +)
87- pink/blk, pink(ignition, ecm power)
87- red, white(injectors)

there are 2- 87 output terminals on the relay so you can use both.
There are several places the pink/blk branch off to.
I have also used a terminal strip and just run the sw 12vdc from the relay to the terminal strip and connect the other loads to it.  I use the Toyota black yellow switched for this.

So to start out we will go right down the line in order.

A1- grn/wht- this wire is used to energize the fuel pump relay.  This turns on the fuel Pump for 3 to 4 seconds.
A2- not used
A3- not used
A4- gry- to EGR relay.(optional) This is a ground from the ECM to control the EGR relay.  My truck dosent have this.
A5- brn/wht- SES(service eng soon) light. This is a ground to turn on the light.  I wired in a little l.e.d.for this.

A6- pnk/blk- switched 12v from the ignition relay.  I hooked this into a Black yellow from the fuse box.
A7- not used
A8- orn- ALDL Serial data. This is your ALDL pin E data for your lap top.
A9- wht/blk- ALDL pin B diag mode. When jumpered to ground will set the ECM to ALDL diagnostic mode.
A10- brn- VSS speed sensor signal to the ECM (optional)
A11- ppl or blk- MAP sensor ground. See ECM ground thread.
A12- blk/wht- System ground. Can be tied with D1. Goes to engine ground.

B1- orn- 12v fused from battery. I use an inline fuse on this. It also ties into C16.
 
I found a hot all the time for the heater and used a 20 amp inline fuse. This mostly runs the fuel pump. there is a few grays. One goes to the Prime relay and one that goes to a oil pressure switch. Oil pressure is what Switched the fuel pump on.


B2- tan/wht- Fuel pump signal from the relay. This one ties into several places, the fuel pump, the relay, and the ecm. When the relay is on it sends 12v thru this wire to turn on the fuel pump, at the same time it tells the ECM the fuel pump is on.   I believe I tied this into the gray wire.
B3- blk/red- EST reference.
B4- not used
B5- ppl/wht- EST high reference
B6- not used
B7- blk- ESC signal This is the knock sensor signal to the ECM. The knock sensor circuit is optional. If not used, tie this wire to C14 the 5v reference.
B8- dk grn- AC signal. This tells the ECM that the AC is turned on. This can be used to set the idle speed higher when you turn the AC on. I use it to increase the idle when using the compressor for on board air. Same thing!! Just tie it to the wire going to the AC clutch.  I think this is a hot in for high idle. COULD TOGGLE SW THIS
B9- not used
B10-orn/blk- Park/Neutral sw. This is optional but I have hooked it into the park sw on the tranny. It tells the ECM when you are in Pk or N. It can be used to give a slight adjustment to idle speed when switching from park to drive and back.
I have this toggled to ground.
B11- not used
B12- not used

C1- not used
C2- not used
C3- IAC- Idle air control
C4- IAC
C5- IAC
C6- IAC -The ECM controls the IAC motor. It adjust the amount of air that is bypassed around the butterflies to adjust the idle speed.
C7- not used
C8- not used
C9- ppl/wht- Starter crank signal. Goes to the small terminal of the starter. The stock scout wire is white that goes there. Tells the ECM you are trying to start the engine.
In line 3 amp fuse then to the starter.
C10- yel- Temp sender signal
C11- lt grn- Map sensor signal
C12- not used
C13- dk blu- TPS sensor signal
C14- gry- 5v reference signal to map and TPS.
C15- grn- inj B ground signal. Most systems do not use this. It was used on some of the bigger engines to share the load of the injector signal.
C16- orn- fused 12v tied to B1

D1- blk/wht- System ground, ties to A12 and engine. See ECM ground thread.
D2- blk- Sensor ground. To eng.
D3- not used
D4- wht- EST control
D5- tan/blk- EST bypass. This is the wire that has a plug near the distr that you disconnect to set your timing.
D6- Tan- O2 ground to engine.
D7- ppl- O2 sensor signal
D8- D13 not used
D14- lt grn- Injector B ground signal
D15- blu- optional injector A ground signal
D16- blu- Injector A ground signal
And that's it.
4 hours sitting in the living room cause its freezing out side.

If you sit down on your garage floor and have each sensor plugged into the harness, then trace each wire back to the ECM connector, you will be able to separate a lot of unneeded wires.
Once you have each wire identified and laid out, then you can set it up on the engine and start tailoring it to fit your engine.
Placement of the sensors will determine wire length. Most stock harnesses are plenty long and only need to be shortened or wrapped and bundled.
When I'm all done and it's running then I go back and reinstall the plastic loom over all the harness.
« Last Edit: Jan 11, 2008, 06:02:55 PM by werty »

THK Matt

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dang.... i got lost in the first line.
:rofl:
2007 GMC Yukon SLT Daily
5.3L V8, 3.5in Lift, 33X10.5R18 Toyo MTs, Vision Rocker 18x9s powdercoated Mountain Blue Transparent over Speedboat Aluminum

2010 Chevy Tahoe LT Wife's Daily
5.3L V8, 6in Lift, 35s, AMP power steps

2016 Ford F250 XLT CCLB Work/Business Truck
6.2L V8

2001 Ford F350 Lariat CCLB Work/Business Truck
7.3L Powerstroke w/ Banks Turbo

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werty [OP]

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 :bling: :bling:

werty [OP]

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check engine light is going to be blue.This is the back side. This is going in where the heater controls used to be.

THK Matt

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awesome... i wana see more progress pics?
2007 GMC Yukon SLT Daily
5.3L V8, 3.5in Lift, 33X10.5R18 Toyo MTs, Vision Rocker 18x9s powdercoated Mountain Blue Transparent over Speedboat Aluminum

2010 Chevy Tahoe LT Wife's Daily
5.3L V8, 6in Lift, 35s, AMP power steps

2016 Ford F250 XLT CCLB Work/Business Truck
6.2L V8

2001 Ford F350 Lariat CCLB Work/Business Truck
7.3L Powerstroke w/ Banks Turbo

Instagram @ taytershubby13

werty [OP]

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awesome... i wana see more progress pics?

Well Im done with the wiring. I will be posting the rest of what I'm doing in my build thread.

           http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=35603.0

Bazzi

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nice...  good info. If I would do that to our quilt my wife would kick my ass...
4runner body on a hilux frame = Hi-Runner.
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werty [OP]

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nice...  good info. If I would do that to our quilt my wife would kick my ass...
haha  she wasnt mad it was a old sheet that goes between the matress and box spring. now its cut up for rags.

 
 
 
 
 

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