Author Topic: REAR DISK BRAKE CONVERSION questions (Read 14616 times)

Techtafab · « **Reply #30 on:** Jan 16, 2006, 04:25:03 PM »

the IFS stuff i have not used so i can not anwser that !
i have tons of soild front end stuff thats all broke up
so i just use them parts.
and the Master Cy. is 1 1/4 81-83 chevy truck 3/4 or 1 ton
they have 1 5/16 but they are hydro boost
hope that cleared things for ya

Techtafab · « **Reply #31 on:** Jan 24, 2006, 10:49:41 AM »

thanks for the orders guys post up what ya think

dieselsmoke · « **Reply #32 on:** Jan 25, 2006, 08:36:40 AM »

got mine in yesterday... they are sweet... can't wait to get them put on, by the way I'm going to try the vented rotors and ifs calipers, I will post pic's when it's done
thanks muchado for the hook up and techtafab for the r&d

the main reason I wanted the rear disk was mud and sand get in the drum brakes and just eat them up, where as the rotors are self cleaning cause they just sling the mud off

BTW if you haven't seen my rig, the build is in tech 79-95 titled "and the build begins"

gmrwizard · « **Reply #33 on:** Jan 25, 2006, 09:06:39 AM »

Sorta a step in the right direction.
'03 runner uses rear disc brakes. Rotor fits on the outside of the axle flange beautiful.

Buuutttttt

Shame on Toyota for going to the single piston caliper like the GM and going back to a solid rotor aannnndddd you have to run 16" wheels to clear everything. Even thought about turning down the OD

Buuutttttt

The rotor is also the park brake (internal drum type) so there is not enough braking surface to use the 4 piston calipers or turn down the rotor's OD.

Close but no Cigar

Techtafab · « **Reply #34 on:** Feb 08, 2006, 12:10:06 PM »

Uncle Jesse · « **Reply #35 on:** Feb 08, 2006, 10:31:43 PM »

Quote from: gmrwizard on Jan 25, 2006, 09:06:39 AM

Sota a step in the right direction.
'03 runner uses rear disc brakes. Rotor fits on the outside of the axle flange beautiful.

Shame on Toyota for going to the single piston caliper like the GM and going back to a solid rotor aannnndddd you have to run 16" wheels to clear everything. Even thought about turning down the OD

the rotor is also the park brake (internal drum type) so there is not enough braking surface to use the 4 piston calipers or turn down the rotor's OD.

I have been working on a setup using a Montero Sport rotor. It is a hair smaller in diameter than a landcruiser rotor, which is the same as the 4Runner rotor most likely. It is a solid rotor, albeit at 3/4" thick. The hat is designed for an inter drum parking brake, but a small diameter one. That means the hat is just the right size for the axle flange. The center bore of the rotor is perfect, and fits over the axle ring without modification. the wheel studs are correct, they just need to be drilled out to the next size up, due to toyota using a tapered wheel stud that is bigger in diameter than the mitsubishi. The 12 holes can be drilled out at home in ten minutes with a hand drill.

My problem has been finding the proper sized caliper. It needs to be able to accept a 3/4" thick rotor, have a pad arc for a larger diameter rotor, and use an internal caliper parking brake. It also needs to be minimal in size. I don't think using a single piston will be a problem, as it's more in the diameter of the rotor than the size of the piston. Also, the smaller sized piston will match the old wheel cylinder size better.

The other problem is wheel size and offset. A 15" wheel will need to have less than 3 3/4" backspacing to clear. A 16" wheel is ideal, and won't require the low offset.

Techtafab · « **Reply #36 on:** Feb 09, 2006, 05:43:25 AM »

sounds like you have a ton more R&D to do
good luck

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #37 on:** Feb 09, 2006, 06:57:04 AM »

Quote from: Uncle Jesse on Feb 08, 2006, 10:31:43 PM

I have been working on a setup using a Montero Sport rotor. It is a hair smaller in diameter than a landcruiser rotor, which is the same as the 4Runner rotor most likely. It is a solid rotor, albeit at 3/4" thick. The hat is designed for an inter drum parking brake, but a small diameter one. That means the hat is just the right size for the axle flange. The center bore of the rotor is perfect, and fits over the axle ring without modification. the wheel studs are correct, they just need to be drilled out to the next size up, due to toyota using a tapered wheel stud that is bigger in diameter than the mitsubishi. The 12 holes can be drilled out at home in ten minutes with a hand drill.

My problem has been finding the proper sized caliper. It needs to be able to accept a 3/4" thick rotor, have a pad arc for a larger diameter rotor, and use an internal caliper parking brake. It also needs to be minimal in size. I don't think using a single piston will be a problem, as it's more in the diameter of the rotor than the size of the piston. Also, the smaller sized piston will match the old wheel cylinder size better.

The other problem is wheel size and offset. A 15" wheel will need to have less than 3 3/4" backspacing to clear. A 16" wheel is ideal, and won't require the low offset.

look for a 94 ish fj80, rear disc caliper

fister45 · « **Reply #38 on:** Mar 02, 2006, 07:09:46 PM »

Ok have searched and searched and I cannot find a rear disc conversion for the 95 4Runner V6. I have checked out everywhere.

muchado · « **Reply #39 on:** Mar 03, 2006, 12:07:54 AM »

Quote from: fister45 on Mar 02, 2006, 07:09:46 PM

Ok have searched and searched and I cannot find a rear disc conversion for the 95 4Runner V6. I have checked out everywhere.

79-95 rear axles have the same rear disc conversion..... I actually sell the brackets for the toyota calipers... you will use 79-85 front rotors and calipers... they work AWESOME, especially in conjunction with the 1-ton master cylinder conversion. GREAT weekend project!!

I will have a detailed writeup this weekend with instructions on installation, I'll post a link here.

fister45 · « **Reply #40 on:** Mar 03, 2006, 08:56:17 AM »

79-95 rear axles have the same rear disc conversion..... I actually sell the brackets for the toyota calipers... you will use 79-85 front rotors and calipers... they work AWESOME, especially in conjunction with the 1-ton master cylinder conversion. GREAT weekend project!!

I will have a detailed writeup this weekend with instructions on installation, I'll post a link here.

COOL THANKS FOR THE HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!

fister45 · « **Reply #41 on:** Mar 07, 2006, 06:39:14 PM »

Hey Muchado,did you finish the brake swap yet if so how did it go.

S-M-R-T · « **Reply #42 on:** Mar 08, 2006, 11:32:51 AM »

Quote from: dieselsmoke on Jan 14, 2006, 08:48:36 AM

here's a question to ponder.... if the front calipers will bolt up then that means that the ifs calipers will bolt up and that means you could use the vented rotors....

things that make you go hmmmm...

is this possable or am I just going for the overkill, see I have problem when I build something that will do things it's not supposed to I tend to make sure that everything is better than it has to be, for example when I get the stroker motor built for my truck it will be pushing well over 700 hp and if you have that much power you need better brakes

and from the looks of that bracket you could have dual calipers on the rear
now thats braking force

For you then this whole thread is pointless because these kits are to convert Toyota rears to disks. If you plan on running 700hp then you will no longer be running Toyota axles either. With that much power you will be spending money on much larger axles... ...among other things.

Fj40fiji · « **Reply #43 on:** Mar 08, 2006, 03:17:32 PM »

Quote from: dieselsmoke on Jan 14, 2006, 03:58:07 PM

as for locking the rear brakes if you sneezed on the brake pedal, the adjustable proportioning valve would take care of that, sure it would reduce the pressure to the rear but if their were 4 calipers with a total of 16 pistons and 8 pads you wouldn't need much pressure the difference is your not working the brakes as hard, the result would be cooler running brakes, so not only would brake fade not be a problem but your pads and rotors would last forever

Your pads would last twice as long, but your rotors would last the same and you would not run cooler. assuming no other changes to the truck, you would be dealing with same amount of kinetic energy at any given speed, and to stop you still have to convert it all to heat through friction (that's how brakes work). Your pads conduct only a small amount of heat away from your rotor so extra pads are going to offer very little cooling, where as a bigger rotor is a bigger heat sink, and vents and cross drilling adds surface area for cooling. Adding additional calipers would also require a larger master cylinder to move enough fluid to fill them. You may actually end up with a less efficient system over all.

muchado · « **Reply #44 on:** Mar 08, 2006, 04:08:22 PM »

Quote from: fister45 on Mar 07, 2006, 06:39:14 PM

Hey Muchado,did you finish the brake swap yet if so how did it go.

The install went great! The past 2 weeks have been crazy with the release of my DVD, work schedule and everything else. I just haven't had the time to sit down and write up a detailed step by step install article. I am going to get on it ASAP though!

fister45 · « **Reply #45 on:** Mar 08, 2006, 06:40:15 PM »

Quote from: muchado on Mar 08, 2006, 04:08:22 PM

The install went great! The past 2 weeks have been crazy with the release of my DVD, work schedule and everything else. I just haven't had the time to sit down and write up a detailed step by step install article. I am going to get on it ASAP though!

Cool I am ordering your DVD the previews look sweet, mad skillzzzzzz

muchado · « **Reply #46 on:** Mar 08, 2006, 10:19:18 PM »

Quote from: fister45 on Mar 08, 2006, 06:40:15 PM

Cool I am ordering your DVD the previews look sweet, mad skillzzzzzz

Thank you!! I hope ya like it. shoot me an email or somethin after your watch it, I love feedback. Where are you from?

fister45 · « **Reply #47 on:** Mar 09, 2006, 07:54:25 PM »

Quote from: muchado on Mar 08, 2006, 10:19:18 PM

Thank you!! I hope ya like it. shoot me an email or somethin after your watch it, I love feedback. Where are you from?

I'm here at Fort Carson, CO but am originally from UTAH and have been a big FORD truck guy for a long time until my wife got me a 4runner, so now I spend my time figuring out what FORD parts are a direct bolt in for my 4runner because the engine is a 3.0 V6 and very underpowered even with 4.88 gears after I put a lift in it. I figure time to rebuild or build a 347 Ford Stroker to put in it,,, piece by piece build,,, can't wait for the DVD to arrive.

POWERSTROKEN · « **Reply #48 on:** Mar 09, 2006, 08:36:28 PM »

It's not cheap. I am running the Front Range Off Road rear full floater kit. It uses SFA components to make the rear disc brake and full floating.

gmrwizard · « **Reply #49 on:** Mar 10, 2006, 05:23:10 AM »

Quote from: POWERSTROKEN on Mar 09, 2006, 08:36:28 PM

It uses SFA components to make the rear disc brake and full floating.

SFA

muchado · « **Reply #50 on:** Mar 10, 2006, 09:59:12 PM »

Quote from: POWERSTROKEN on Mar 09, 2006, 08:36:28 PM

It's not cheap. I am running the Front Range Off Road rear full floater kit. It uses SFA components to make the rear disc brake and full floating.

Full float kit is not cheap..... The setup I sell is just the caliper brackets and a master cylinder adapter. I don't have a detailed price list but I know I put all brand new components up front in my 85 front axle(after it caught on fire) for around $200. That was without turning cores in. Add the Caliper brackets for $95 shipped and you're looking at total of around $300. To me, stopping power is worth that. The FROR kits START AT $699.00... Not worth it to me since none of my buddies have had problems with stock axles... This includes Techtafab, our triple cased, crazy truggy drivin friend... Of course with the master cylinder there's more added cost there but it doesn't touch the FROR kit. I'm not gonna bash the full floater kit, but it's not exactly a "must have" item when converting to rear discs--Especially at around 7 benjamins.

and gmr wizard, SFA refers to "solid front axle" or "straight front axle"

Check out the link below for my new writeup on the rear disc conversion that we did.

http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=21756.new#new

Nothingface5384 · « **Reply #51 on:** Apr 13, 2006, 04:01:27 PM »

i'd like to check out the writeup but it says thread is missing or offlimits for me..

muchado · « **Reply #52 on:** Apr 17, 2006, 05:29:00 PM »

Quote from: Nothingface5384 on Apr 13, 2006, 04:01:27 PM

i'd like to check out the writeup but it says thread is missing or offlimits for me..

http://www.muchadoproductions.com/forums/showthread.php?t=349

RCKSQRL · « **Reply #53 on:** Apr 17, 2006, 06:34:36 PM »

how much longer do the studs need to be?

Techtafab · « **Reply #54 on:** Apr 19, 2006, 03:38:30 PM »

the stock rear studs work just fine

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