Author Topic: REAR DISK BRAKE CONVERSION questions (Read 14554 times)

SQUIRREL MONSTER · « **on:** Jan 08, 2006, 11:55:12 PM »

ive seen alot of info on this through endless searching but i still didnt get what i was looking for.

what i'd like to know is if sky manufacturing is still making the rear mounting braket? i looked on their site and didnt find it anywhere, so am i to assume the dont make it anymore or is it just call and order one? also, who else makes these brackets? who do i call to get em?

just to clear up some more things im researching.... the disks i need are from a 1990 chevy 1/2 ton pickup regular cab correct? the calipers that i would need are from a 78 monte carlo? this is what i have so far. as far as machining the rear rotors ive heard 4.125, or 4.88. thats a large diffrence so can anyone who has this info or has done this give me some advice? thanks.

YotaSoul · « **Reply #1 on:** Jan 09, 2006, 03:52:59 AM »

The IFS rear axles require the rotor to be milled out bigger so the 4.125 is for 79-83 axles.

SQUIRREL MONSTER · « **Reply #2 on:** Jan 09, 2006, 05:16:14 AM »

ah ok.... figured so since i looked at the hubs and they are visually bigger.

anyone know where i can find them brackets?

DAWGTOY · « **Reply #3 on:** Jan 09, 2006, 07:56:31 AM »

yea sky manufacturing makes em. got mine about 6 months ago.
if you take your axles and rotors to the machine shop at the
same time the machinst can cut out the rotors to fit.
not a problem.
by the way you need to use an fj80 master cylinder.
makes for great brakes, love mine.

SQUIRREL MONSTER · « **Reply #4 on:** Jan 09, 2006, 09:49:41 AM »

Dawgtoy- what did the brackets cost you from sky? with the fj80 master, did you have to run a risidual valve or pressure regulator for the rear? or does the fj80 master take care of that?

DAWGTOY · « **Reply #5 on:** Jan 09, 2006, 11:23:44 AM »

hey man
seems like thay were 50-60 bucks.
and i did not make any changes other than
the master. o yea i did get rid of the load
proporsining (sp) valve under the bed.

dawg

SQUIRREL MONSTER · « **Reply #6 on:** Jan 09, 2006, 07:56:17 PM »

sounds good! im looking into cost and when ill do it as the rear drums on the new axle are in really good shape. i may just take my time. thanks for your help dawg!

kneedownnate · « **Reply #7 on:** Jan 09, 2006, 08:28:39 PM »

Try this link man, http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/

kneedownnate · « **Reply #8 on:** Jan 09, 2006, 08:33:50 PM »

Ok so it didn't work like I wanted. Go to the toyota page and click on suspension, it's about 3/5th the way down, bright green adapters.

muchado · « **Reply #9 on:** Jan 10, 2006, 12:34:21 AM »

any of you ever seen the 1-ton master conversion with toyota rotor/calipers? the toyota calipers are solid mount, not a floating mount like the chevies(they tend to bind up easier) and you keep all toyota brake parts except the new master cylinder... PLUS the 1-ton master cylinders are CHEAP from the auto parts store, I think $50 or less... my friend has made all the rear disc conversions for a local group of toyota guys that we run arond with called the "geared down crawlers"... I can look to see if I have some pics and I can see how much he charges for the setup...

SQUIRREL MONSTER · « **Reply #10 on:** Jan 10, 2006, 05:08:06 AM »

for sure! post up them images

muchado · « **Reply #11 on:** Jan 10, 2006, 07:20:18 AM »

that's the custom setup my buddy runs, but he puts it on all the yotas around here, that's what I'll be running soon.

Uncle Jesse · « **Reply #12 on:** Jan 10, 2006, 05:07:32 PM »

So that is a toyota stock front rotor, mounted behind the axle flange?

muchado · « **Reply #13 on:** Jan 10, 2006, 10:35:21 PM »

Quote from: Uncle Jesse on Jan 10, 2006, 05:07:32 PM

So that is a toyota stock front rotor, mounted behind the axle flange?

stock rotors and calipers... I like it because more parts are interchangeable, also the solid mount is nice. I drive duane's truck every now and then and it stops great with the 1 ton master and the rear discs. He has triple cases and it has no problem stopping completly. My truck is all stock right now and I have to pump the crap outta my pedal to stop.

dieselsmoke · « **Reply #14 on:** Jan 10, 2006, 10:52:10 PM »

what size bore is the master cyl. or should I say what did it come off of, I still have the solid rotors and calipers off my parts truck that are being swapped out for the vented rotors and ifs calipers and would like to run rear disc
can we get a parts list please

SQUIRREL MONSTER · « **Reply #15 on:** Jan 11, 2006, 12:14:07 AM »

yea! stock toyota parts would be way nice because then you wouldnt have to deal with special made brake lines and crap. (cost cut) on top of wich you wouldnt have to mill out rotors (another cost cut). how did he mount the rear calipers? i cant see it clearly but did he have to offset the caliper with the bracket or is it a straight 1 peice like the landcruisers' desighn? can you get more pictures of how the brake line is mounted on the axle along with a good picture of the bracket?

must find out all about this set up it may work just as good if not better then the chevy parts set up.

muchado · « **Reply #16 on:** Jan 11, 2006, 06:04:54 AM »

I'm gonna have to email him..... and I don't think I can get pics because he doesnt have a camera and I'm back at college 4.5 hours away

.... I'll post up as soon as I figure out what he did with the axle and if there was milling involved, etc... as far as I can recall there isn't... and I've looked online and don't know of anyone else that makes the kits for the toyota parts...

muchado · « **Reply #17 on:** Jan 11, 2006, 06:06:32 AM »

Quote from: dieselsmoke on Jan 10, 2006, 10:52:10 PM

what size bore is the master cyl. or should I say what did it come off of, I still have the solid rotors and calipers off my parts truck that are being swapped out for the vented rotors and ifs calipers and would like to run rear disc
can we get a parts list please

it's a 1 ton master from a chevy pickup, you've gotta use the adapter plate

dieselsmoke · « **Reply #18 on:** Jan 11, 2006, 06:48:43 AM »

please find out how much he would charge for the caliper mounts and the master cyl. adapter, you can e-mail me directly rottieonr@verizon.net
thankyou

looks sweet and I also like the factory part not to mention 4 pistons are better than 1

muchado · « **Reply #19 on:** Jan 11, 2006, 03:27:20 PM »

Quote from: dieselsmoke on Jan 11, 2006, 06:48:43 AM

please find out how much he would charge for the caliper mounts and the master cyl. adapter, you can e-mail me directly rottieonr@verizon.net
thankyou

looks sweet and I also like the factory part not to mention 4 pistons are better than 1

I'll give him a call and then shoot ya an email! Yeah, it's nice to use the Toyota stuff because of the solid mount, the 4 pistons... AND.. Us yota guys tend to have extra parts laying around...

Uncle Jesse · « **Reply #20 on:** Jan 11, 2006, 04:36:23 PM »

http://bigrocksoffroad.com/Brake%20Upgrades.htm

SQUIRREL MONSTER · « **Reply #21 on:** Jan 11, 2006, 11:25:11 PM »

oh wow! thats a nice set up right there. i may have some extra calipers after i swap axles out for my new ones. hell, if they'd sell me just the brackets, id also have a spare set of new rotors too! this would make for a mega cheap conversion!

muchado · « **Reply #22 on:** Jan 12, 2006, 02:31:19 PM »

Quote from: SQUIRREL MONSTER on Jan 11, 2006, 11:25:11 PM

oh wow! thats a nice set up right there. i may have some extra calipers after i swap axles out for my new ones. hell, if they'd sell me just the brackets, id also have a spare set of new rotors too! this would make for a mega cheap conversion!

Duane (techtafab) sells the rear caliper brackets and the 1-ton chevy conversion bracket kit for $145 shipped, that was the quote he gave me, I don't know how much for just the caliper brackets though

91blaze · « **Reply #23 on:** Jan 13, 2006, 05:24:33 AM »

Here's a question for ya to pass on to techta for me.
I was gonna go that route with the brakes on the back side of the axle shaft so I wouldn't have to open up the inner hole of a rotor, but to my suprise the rotor wouldn't fit over the flange that bolts on to the housing. This would mean that not only would you have to remove the wheel studs but also the axle bearing and retainer in order to change the rotor or an axle. And for a spare you'd have to have one with the rotor already on it. Is this correct or am I missing something?

muchado · « **Reply #24 on:** Jan 13, 2006, 04:50:17 PM »

yeah you gotta pull the bearing every time and knock out the studs....... how often do u break rear axles? you don't need to carry a spare rotor attached to an axle, just bring the proper tools for the job if snappin rear axles is a prob for you....... sorry if that's not what you're looking for but that's the answer I got from D...

dieselsmoke · « **Reply #25 on:** Jan 14, 2006, 08:48:36 AM »

here's a question to ponder.... if the front calipers will bolt up then that means that the ifs calipers will bolt up and that means you could use the vented rotors....

things that make you go hmmmm...

is this possable or am I just going for the overkill, see I have problem when I build something that will do things it's not supposed to I tend to make sure that everything is better than it has to be, for example when I get the stroker motor built for my truck it will be pushing well over 700 hp and if you have that much power you need better brakes

and from the looks of that bracket you could have dual calipers on the rear
now thats braking force

muchado · « **Reply #26 on:** Jan 14, 2006, 11:34:06 AM »

Quote from: dieselsmoke on Jan 14, 2006, 08:48:36 AM

here's a question to ponder.... if the front calipers will bolt up then that means that the ifs calipers will bolt up and that means you could use the vented rotors....

things that make you go hmmmm...

is this possable or am I just going for the overkill, see I have problem when I build something that will do things it's not supposed to I tend to make sure that everything is better than it has to be, for example when I get the stroker motor built for my truck it will be pushing well over 700 hp and if you have that much power you need better brakes

and from the looks of that bracket you could have dual calipers on the rear
now thats braking force

I don't know if you would want to lock up your rear axle every time you sneezed on the pedal. Trust me, the reg calipers with the 1 ton master is WAY more than enough LOL... Don't need to run dual calipers... I suppose it's possible, but your front brakes handle most of your braking power anyways. I don't think I would do it. The vented rotors may work, I'm not 100% sure tho. I wish Techtafab would start posting on this thread so I wouldn't have to keep askin him... I'll find out for ya though.

dieselsmoke · « **Reply #27 on:** Jan 14, 2006, 03:58:07 PM »

I'm going to look into the master cyl. upgrade, gm made some master cyl's that had diagonal brakes, the advantage to this is that both reservoirs are the same size, the easiest way to identify a diagonal master cyl. is the partition is on an angle, that way each part fed 1 caliper and 1 drum, otherwise you will have to check your fluid level on a regular basis,

as for locking the rear brakes if you sneezed on the brake pedal, the adjustable proportioning valve would take care of that, sure it would reduce the pressure to the rear but if their were 4 calipers with a total of 16 pistons and 8 pads you wouldn't need much pressure the difference is your not working the brakes as hard, the result would be cooler running brakes, so not only would brake fade not be a problem but your pads and rotors would last forever

hell with a setup like that stopping 44's would be cake, also if you think about it Toyota had a problem with the rear brakes locking up thats why they put in the load sensing valve, that way if you were empty your rear brake action is light and if your loaded heavy you get more rear brake application

muchado · « **Reply #28 on:** Jan 14, 2006, 06:42:42 PM »

Quote from: dieselsmoke on Jan 14, 2006, 03:58:07 PM

I'm going to look into the master cyl. upgrade, gm made some master cyl's that had diagonal brakes, the advantage to this is that both reservoirs are the same size, the easiest way to identify a diagonal master cyl. is the partition is on an angle, that way each part fed 1 caliper and 1 drum, otherwise you will have to check your fluid level on a regular basis,

as for locking the rear brakes if you sneezed on the brake pedal, the adjustable proportioning valve would take care of that, sure it would reduce the pressure to the rear but if their were 4 calipers with a total of 16 pistons and 8 pads you wouldn't need much pressure the difference is your not working the brakes as hard, the result would be cooler running brakes, so not only would brake fade not be a problem but your pads and rotors would last forever

hell with a setup like that stopping 44's would be cake, also if you think about it Toyota had a problem with the rear brakes locking up thats why they put in the load sensing valve, that way if you were empty your rear brake action is light and if your loaded heavy you get more rear brake application

got ya... I'm not a huge expert in braking systems, know enough to get by though... BTW, techtafab is makin those brackets for you! I talked to him today. $Beer Chug\'n$

Techtafab · « **Reply #29 on:** Jan 14, 2006, 06:46:44 PM »

ok how can i help ?

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