Author Topic: Radiator In Bed Set Up (Read 8784 times)

SLOYOTA808 · « **on:** Jul 20, 2005, 01:31:57 AM »

I am set on doing this mod for many reasons, but my biggest concern is the water pump: can the stock pump handle? Or would a smaller pulley be a suggestion...

WHITE_TRASH · « **Reply #1 on:** Jul 20, 2005, 01:48:34 AM »

There are a lot of pics of my old truck that I built that had a rear mounted radiator. What engine are you running and what radiator are you planning on using?

SLOYOTA808 · « **Reply #2 on:** Jul 20, 2005, 02:20:05 AM »

I am running a 22R.

I plan to run the stock Toy radiator and already have a spare electric Flexilite fan for the set up.

I plan on modifying the front to fit a winch partially into the engine bay as to aide with my approach angles, prevent mud from clogging up my stock cooling system, and add more liquid into the cooling system to aide with cooling.

Yes, I will lose some bed space, but for a mainly trail rig, room don't matter...

Just some thoughts...

Where are them pix???

WHITE_TRASH · « **Reply #3 on:** Jul 20, 2005, 02:29:35 AM »

Do a search either here or on PBB for that topic and you'll find them. I know guys that have used a 22r and had no cooling issues with a rear mounted setup. Id highly suggest running either a very high cfm fan with a good shroud or a pair of decent quality fans one on each side of the radiator. Its nice not having to worry about putting a stick through the radiator when brush running.

SLOYOTA808 · « **Reply #4 on:** Jul 20, 2005, 02:34:24 AM »

We are planning a run early next year on the island of Kauai, the home of the wettest spot on the Earth. A supposed 30+ mile trail, I hear there's TONS of DEEP pits...

Thanks for the tips.

mr4x42u · « **Reply #5 on:** Jul 20, 2005, 05:32:57 AM »

I ran that set up for a while in my old toy..No problems at all..However you have to fill the engine with water..it builds air pockets and will over heat...I just filled it through the t-stat hole..it acts as a primer..for some reason with out ding this it won't bleed out the air..But once thats done your gold.. $Beer Chug\'n$

gotrocks · « **Reply #6 on:** Jul 20, 2005, 09:35:10 AM »

I am planning on running this setup in my rig due to space issues. I'm running a 350/350 combo in my 90 ex. cab. and I have a 4 core radiator and a flexalite fan that I'm running. I probably could fit it up front but I want some more room and additional cooling with the longer hoses. Does anyone have any pics of this setup?

dj · « **Reply #7 on:** Sep 10, 2005, 08:36:59 PM »

My 82 is running a 350/350 with a 4 core radiator out of a 72 chevy p/u go to a local salvage and get a ford taurus electric fan I got them for $5 a piece and they are wicked The mud killed my flex a light. and the ford fan runs a lot harder. I ran exhuast tubing under my truck for coolant lines, although I never fixed it the way I had intended, I have been running it for a long time without any problems. you need to put a valve on the highest point on the engine to bleed out air pockets when filling. Another disadvantage is that my truck now holds over 5 gallons of coolant, so I have to carry a lot of extra water. Will try to post you some pics.

SLOYOTA808 · « **Reply #8 on:** Sep 11, 2005, 12:36:43 AM »

Exhaust tubing? Wouldn't it rust out? A friend of mine is suggesting black pipe (Schedule 40). Yet another is suggesting copper. And another is saying Schedule 80 plastic black pipe.

What would you all run?

Makman · « **Reply #9 on:** Sep 11, 2005, 09:59:12 AM »

Quote from: SLOYOTA808 on Sep 11, 2005, 12:36:43 AM

Exhaust tubing? Wouldn't it rust out? A friend of mine is suggesting black pipe (Schedule 40). Yet another is suggesting copper. And another is saying Schedule 80 plastic black pipe.

What would you all run?

It's coolant. You know, the green stuff with added corrosion inhibitors designed specifically to be chemically compatible with cast iron blocks, aluminum heads, rubber hoses, copper radiators, etc. You'd probably get away with using steel, copper, stainless, aluminum but NOT the "sch 80 black plastic" approach. Black implies ABS and it is generally used as drain pipe and only rated to 85 deg C [185 F]. CPVC (higher temperature rating than ABS or regular PVC) is only rated for continuous service up to about 200 deg F. I'd avoid the schedule 40 black pipe as well simply because it'll weigh more than twice what it needs to.

Below is a path to the Ryerson stock list that shows carbon steel tubing options in the sizes you'd probably be looking at. The copper isn't a bad idea either and should be available at a local plumbing supply instead of a steel warehouse. Cost and availability, right?
http://www.ryersontull.com/stocklist/RedbookServlet?COM=GetTable&ID=1744

Another consideration that the coolant may not address is galvanic corrosion. The theory is that some alloys have higher electrochemical potential and, using the coolant as the transfer medium, will steal ions from other metallic components in the system in order to reach a more stable energy state. Theory aside, I'd just electrically ground all metallic components and it'll most closely resemble an OEM installation.

dj · « **Reply #10 on:** Sep 11, 2005, 07:27:33 PM »

I have not had any problems with my exhaust tubing and it is over 2 years old. It is aluminized pipe and lighter and easier to work with then sch40 th black pvc will not work, the heat will crystalize it. and it will shatter like glass. I have seen it used as a heater hose substitute.

dj · « **Reply #11 on:** Sep 13, 2005, 01:22:00 PM »

Got some pics of mine

ntsqd · « **Reply #12 on:** Sep 13, 2005, 01:43:58 PM »

Quote from: Makman on Sep 11, 2005, 09:59:12 AM

It's coolant. You know, the green stuff with added corrosion inhibitors designed specifically to be chemically compatible with cast iron blocks, aluminum heads, rubber hoses, copper radiators, etc. You'd probably get away with using steel, copper, stainless, aluminum but NOT the "sch 80 black plastic" approach. Black implies ABS and it is generally used as drain pipe and only rated to 85 deg C [185 F]. CPVC (higher temperature rating than ABS or regular PVC) is only rated for continuous service up to about 200 deg F. I'd avoid the schedule 40 black pipe as well simply because it'll weigh more than twice what it needs to.

some snippage

Another consideration that the coolant may not address is galvanic corrosion. The theory is that some alloys have higher electrochemical potential and, using the coolant as the transfer medium, will steal ions from other metallic components in the system in order to reach a more stable energy state. Theory aside, I'd just electrically ground all metallic components and it'll most closely resemble an OEM installation.

Even CPVC really doesn't go high enough in temp. We melted some on Ken's first engine dyno. Would not even consider trying ABS. If determined to use plastic I'd suggest looking thru McMaster.com's selection. Might find a polymer that will work.

Galvanic Corrosion happens any time two dissimilar metals come in contact with each other. It's a very slow process until water gets involved. then it can speed up rather dramatically.

SLOYOTA808 · « **Reply #13 on:** Sep 13, 2005, 04:32:56 PM »

Thanks for the honest and clear input gang.

I am new to the fabrication process and appreciate the no-

replies. I have begun to patronize a local exhaust shop and will inquire with them on the exhaust tubing idea, as it sounds cheaper than copper, and a bit stronger too. Pipe is heavier. As long as I tuck it up in there, we be okay...

Thanks guys!

If ever in Honolulu, look me up...we take you ramblin'.

BigMike · « **Reply #14 on:** Sep 13, 2005, 05:01:32 PM »

You should look at Brandon Miller's old truck with a Ford 5.0 V8 and his radiator in the back.

Look for some pictures on this page somewhere: http://rcrc4x4.com/mambo/index.php?option=com_content&task=category&sectionid=8&id=106&Itemid=69

dj · « **Reply #15 on:** Sep 14, 2005, 07:47:11 AM »

SLOYOTA808 · « **Reply #16 on:** Sep 14, 2005, 09:53:11 AM »

Holy cow! I see that's a bed optional rig!

dj · « **Reply #17 on:** Sep 16, 2005, 07:11:06 AM »

The tires were flexing into the bed so I got rid of it.

92yota · « **Reply #18 on:** Sep 16, 2005, 03:04:23 PM »

hey slowyota808 i live on kauai and yes there is some DEEP mud pits not to many places for rockcrawling though. Your probably talking about the powerline trail. good luck

SLOYOTA808 · « **Reply #19 on:** Sep 17, 2005, 03:27:41 AM »

Quote from: 92yota on Sep 16, 2005, 03:04:23 PM

hey slowyota808 i live on kauai and yes there is some DEEP mud pits not to many places for rockcrawling though. Your probably talking about the powerline trail. good luck

Cool...some guys I know were amongst the group that went last year...

Drop me a dime about shipping...check you pm...

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