Topic: 22R EFI Swap Idling Too Fast

[wrenchtech]

I just started up my '84 after swapping in 22RE EFI mechanicals, wiring and controls from an '89 4runner. It started instantly on the first try  and ran smoothly. It idled a little high, but I hadn't even set the timing at that point. When it warmed up to normal operating temp it was idling too high (maybe 2000 rpm). I'm guessing at the rpm because I have no tach at the moment). The rpm's also began to cycle; kicking down every second on the second and surging right back up, like the TCCS computer or some control was trying to kick it down. When I jumpered the "T" and "E1" diagnostic terminals to set the timing the cycling stopped, and the idle was lower, but still too high. When I checked the timing I found that it was way retarded (and this at 1500 - 2000 rpm!). I dialed it back to 5 degrees BTDC, even though the idle was too high, figuring that it would be closer than what I had. When I pulled the jumper off the diagnostic connector it was back to the same high idle and cycling, with slightly more than 14 degrees BTDC timing indicated. I checked the Auxillary Air Valve and found that the idle screw was pretty close to fully screwed in. I screwed the adjustment down all the way with little or no effect. I checked the TPS readings and found them in spec. The AFM checked out ok when I was installing it. The throttle is fully closed as well.

I'm a little suspicious of the Aux Air Valve (AAV). Shouldn't the AAV body feel warm when the cooling system is up to temp? I think the upper AAV hose hose is even cool when operating temps are reached. I checked both hoses and found that pressurized coolant is present at both ends of the AAV. Coolant is supposed to circulate through that sucka, right? Do AAV's ever get plugged up? I did install a new thermostat when I was putting the engine together.

Most of the dashboard electrical accessories, besides the instrument cluster and steering column connections, are presently not hooked up to the wiring harness and I have not yet worked out getting a 4wd signal to the TCCS computer. The A/C evaporator unit with its rpm adjuster is not in yet either. -- Matt

[eightyfive]

turn down idle speed setting

[brainlessfool]

check for vac leaks.

[mickeyfinn]

did you change the throttle position sensor when you did the swap, also check the throttle cable that it is not to tight 

[mickeyfinn]

was the idle kinda like wa wa wa wa. if ti was it sounds like overrun cut. overrun cut is what happens when the idle is to high and the computer sees the throttle position sensor closed. what is happening is the fuel is shutting off just long enough for the idle to drop and then the fuel returns. check your TPS adjustment and your base idle adjustment.

[BUDDERS]

Try bleeding the air out of your cooling system.  Thes engine are notorious for doing what you just described if the air bubbles aren't bleed out.  Park it on a angle with the radiator being the highest part in you engine compartment.  Turn your heater on full blast and let it idle.  Remove the radiator cap while it is idling  and let it sit until it runs normal, adding coolant when needed.  Then put the radiator cap back on and drive it around.  This should fix it.  It has something to do with the bubbles going by the water temp sensor for the computer and causes it to go rich, then lean, then rich, then lean....  I've seen this alot at the dealer after doing a bunch of engine work.  It  still might be something electrical because this was a swap, but check the easy stuff first.

[wrenchtech [OP]]

Try bleeding the air out of your cooling system.  Thes engine are notorious for doing what you just described if the air bubbles aren't bleed out.  Park it on a angle with the radiator being the highest part in you engine compartment.  Turn your heater on full blast and let it idle.  Remove the radiator cap while it is idling  and let it sit until it runs normal, adding coolant when needed.  Then put the radiator cap back on and drive it around.  This should fix it.  It has something to do with the bubbles going by the water temp sensor for the computer and causes it to go rich, then lean, then rich, then lean....  I've seen this alot at the dealer after doing a bunch of engine work.  It  still might be something electrical because this was a swap, but check the easy stuff first.

BUDDERS, Thanks for actually reading my post. Everything obvious like the throttle cable, TPS and vacuum leaks I checked out right away. And as I said in my first post the idle adjust screws are all at their low idle points. I think air in the cooling system is my problem. -- Matt

[BUDDERS]

Cool, let me know if my trick fixes it.

[wrenchtech [OP]]

 Yes indeed! It took about a half an hour of driving with the heat on to get things right in the cooling system. Now I have a normal idle. And my EFI conversion is a success! An '84 SR5 Xtra Cab 4x4 running '89 22RE hardware. Hot Diggity! Thanks for help with the idling issue Budders. -- Matt

[BUDDERS]

No problem.  I believe that's what this forum was originally designed for.  Now go out and drive the crap out of it 

[DanS]

Good Post, my son-in-laws 88Runner has given us grief after a longstroke/EFI swap with similiar results as yours, I'm going to take another look using this post for referance. DanS

[wrenchtech [OP]]

Actually, I continued to have trouble after I posted that the problem was solved. I disassembled the Auxilliary Air Valve (AAV) yesterday and found that the coolant passage was totally blocked. I had to drill the soft metal body plugs to get to the clog. I filled the plug holes with 5/16" socket head bolts (cut to the proper length) and sealed them with marine epoxy. Now my idle is perfect. Toyota lists retail for the AAV at around $215! Glad I didn't need to buy one.  -- Matt