Topic: weber problems

[11 Bravo]

or the adapter plates maybe. they seemed kinda :pokinit:ty

Spray some carb cleaner around the base and the adapter and see if the engine RPM changes. If it does you have a leak.

Use the long plastic tube on the spray can to get the carb cleaner right where you want it. Don't spray it around so the vapors can go into the carb inlet.

[87yoter [OP]]

Spray some carb cleaner around the base and the adapter and see if the engine RPM changes. If it does you have a leak.

Use the long plastic tube on the spray can to get the carb cleaner right where you want it. Don't spray it around so the vapors can go into the card inlet.

hard to do by yourself with no idle

[11 Bravo]

hard to do by yourself with no idle

Don't you know how to start it from under the hood, so you can have your hand on the throttle linkage and keep it running?

[87yoter [OP]]

no but thatd be a good thing to know

[79coyotefrg]

jumper wire from the starter to the batt post,  just dont spray anything before you get it started

[11 Bravo]

no but thatd be a good thing to know

On your starter solenoid you have a lug where the positive battery cable bolts on. You have a smaller wire, about 14 gauge, that is the signal wire from the key switch. Usually the signal wire is a push on connection. If you jump battery voltage to the signal lug on the solenoid the starter will engage. If you have the key switch in the run position, and you crank the engine by applying battery voltage to the correct post on the solenoid the engine will start and run.

It is pretty common for guys to make up a momentary push button switch with 2 alligator clips and 2 wire leads about 12 to 18 inches long. Clip a lead on each of the solenoid posts and when you push the momentary switch the engine will crank. No danger of arcing or sparking.

[90YoTa]

i had the same problem when i converted my truck from EFI to carb.
 

[87yoter [OP]]

does anyone know what size the intake manifold studs are? and is there a different carb adapter you can run?

[11 Bravo]

"does anyone know what size the intake manifold studs are? and is there a different carb adapter you can run?"

I can't remember for sure off the top of my head, but I believe the studs are 8 x 1.25 mm.

When I mounted the Weber to my manifold I used just the upper portion of the adapter kit (the plate closest to the carb). I set it up so the ports were matched up to the intake and clamped it down. Set it up in the drill press and drilled through the carb mounting holes into the manifold. I then tapped the new holes in the manifold and put studs in them. The red circles are around the new holes drilled in the manifold.

I have done a couple this way and it makes a nice clean mounting set up. One adapter plate and 2 gaskets. No hokey allen heads or screws.

[87yoter [OP]]

how are you likin the offy intake?

[79coyotefrg]

they are 8mm X 1.25

ive always heard of the dual plane offy but never seen one till now,  i really dont see how they think that could help

ive been told by many that have run the offy then back to a stock 20R intake that stock flowed better

[87yoter [OP]]

i thought of somthin while i was on my thinkin chair lastnight.. you dont use the stock plate with the baffle with the weber, right?

[79coyotefrg]

nope

fwiw
ive never had any problems at all with my adapter getting loose

[11 Bravo]

they are 8mm X 1.25

ive always heard of the dual plane offy but never seen one till now,  i really dont see how they think that could help

ive been told by many that have run the offy then back to a stock 20R intake that stock flowed better

That is an interesting statement. How did your friends quantify that the intake "flowed better"?

The idea of a dual plane intake is not new. As a general rule, dual-plane intakes improve low-rpm response, torque production and idle quality. Smaller plenums favor power production lower in the rpm range. Dual plane designs generally feature runners of a smaller average cross-sectional area than a single-plane, creating higher flow velocity at low rpm. Simple physics.

You can get really deep into what is taking place in the intake runner if you start to study pressure pulses in the smaller plenums and how these effect the intake tract and provide a greater charge density in the cylinder, and therefore more torque and horsepower.

Lets face it. OEM manifolds are single plane because they are easier and simpler (ie.cheaper) to manufacture. They offer better performance at higher RPM, much like a 4 into 1 header. For performance in the lower RPM range a dual plane intake and a Try-Y header is the ticket.

Every gear head out there knows that a performance intake manifold and a header are the leading serious bolt-on performance upgrades you can make. What is sometimes lost is that these need to be matched to the type of performance we want from the engine. The right intake manifold and carburetor , matched with the right header, matched with the right cam will give the optimum air / fuel mixture and flow characteristics for what we want the engine to do. When these 4 components are matched up properly they are the biggest performance changes we can make without going deep into the engine and without spending a fortune. The most bang for the buck so to speak.
  

[79coyotefrg]

i dont see it being a problem unless your running a HUGE carb

[11 Bravo]

i dont see it being a problem unless your running a HUGE carb

Part of me is dying to ask you to explain that, and part of me is reminded why I had quit coming around here.

[87yoter [OP]]

top adapter plate bent and seperated. i like the idea of the off intake it does make sense, but what kind of difference in performance or improvements are we talkin about?

[bleakhorizon]

you could also look for a one piece Weber adapter, i had tons of problems with my two piece adapters, havent had any since i did the one piece swap.....

not to fuel the fire on the intake stuff. BUT.  To reap the benefits from that intake it seems you would have to mod the intake in the head also, which also includes the exhaust... 

The idea of a dual plane intake is not new. As a general rule, dual-plane intakes improve low-rpm response, torque production and idle quality. Smaller plenums favor power production lower in the rpm range. Dual plane designs generally feature runners of a smaller average cross-sectional area than a single-plane, creating higher flow velocity at low rpm. Simple physics.

physics?  isnt this a damn 4x4 site lol

[87yoter [OP]]

you could also look for a one piece Weber adapter

whered you find that? thats what im lookin for

[bleakhorizon]

summit, man-a-fre, trans adapt 2181, there are several on ebaymotors....... they are a little taller, but easily manageable

prob the best pic i got of the adaptor

[87yoter [OP]]

cool. linkage lines up and everything?

[bleakhorizon]

well in this picture the carb is actually fliped around, i did shim my throttle linkage up in the front (towards the pass fender) so it wouldnt bind, but my linkage was a bit. . .uh... custom....

[87yoter [OP]]

howcome you have it on there backwards

[bleakhorizon]

webers dont like to climb steep hills without flooding out, with a lower float level and a fuel pressure regulator you can help this, but it wasnt working as good as i wanted to, so i flipped it around, i have almost literally stood my truck on end and it didnt die.. but coming down some steep trails it will still start to stumble when it over fuels but with compression it will usually stay running