Author Topic: seeking driveshaft solution and or local shop??  (Read 3353 times)

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tyes

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seeking driveshaft solution and or local shop??
« on: Jun 20, 2014, 05:26:35 PM »
I’ve been tackling this driveshaft vibration on a new setup for a few weeks now. And frankly it’s *&^%$# me off. I just got done installing a 1UZ + dual cases and adapters. This has shorten my drive line to I think 39 inches. On top of that, I have a 5” plus leaf spring lift. The drive shaft has a single cardan. It was freshly built with .120 tubing and stock OEM toyota U joints. U joints are greased up and were checked when it was made. Shaft is also balanced.
I think it has something to do with phasing. As my third points directly up to the transfer case. This worked really well on my previous setup running double cardan shaft.
This is what I have tried:
1.   flipping the driveshaft around.
2.   Taken off the driveshaft and inspect the 3rd flange and the TC flange.
3.   Put jacks stands on, put the car in drive “without” the driveshaft. there are no vibrations. Therefore output bearing to flange nuts are good.
4.   With jack stands on, reconnect the driveshaft and put in gear (D). I could hear the vibration coming from the driveshaft all the way to the 3rd member.
I have driven it a few times around the block on pavement for testing purposes only. I have not driven it above 45MPH.
So I need some advice on where I should take my runner to. I am very picky as I do all work myself and in my garage. I live in Fresno, Ca and I can tow the truck anywhere in this area. I am NOT cheap but I am also NOT a bank. I need someone who has knowledge about this subject and can quickly diagnose and resolve this problem. Thank you guys in advance.
86 T4R V8 1UZ-Fe

twistedtoy92

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Could you post up some pics of your setup? If you have your 3rd pointed up towards the tcase output with regular old U-joints and not the double cardan joint then that might be the issue. Single U-joints are supposed to be installed with the output and input shafts parallel to each other, if that makes any sense to you...
2005 Audi A4 2.0T Quattro 380 AWHP @ 24psi
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toyodaaddict

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By single cardan are you saying the shaft is a non cv shaft? If that is the case, I've never seen a lifted dual case truck work without a cv shaft and the pinion set accordingly. I use HighAngle drive line, good work an good prices. good luck driveline vibes can be a pregnant dog.
80 shortbed-22re,w56,Marlin 23 spline dual cases,HighAngle drivelines,RUF/63"chevy's,35''mtr's,30 spline Longfields, Allpro highsteer.87 rear axle,5.29 gears,rear spool,BudBuilt cm, marlin HD clutch,ramsey 8000 winch. 
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Snowtoy

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X2 on trans and diff being parallel, I had to do this with my 3rd gen x-cab when I went to a one piece drive line.  I didn't have to rotate it it much, I think I only needed 5 or 7 degree shims to stop the vibration.
'90 black X-cab mod'd 3.0, 33's/4.88's, rear ARB, custom bumpers, sliders, safari rack, etc.
'91 Blue X-cab 22re, 35's/5.29's,Truetrac front, ARB rear, dual cases, and custom Safari flatbed, bumper, interior.
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Dingman.

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You most likely need a cv on the back.


OOPS

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David & Theresa Fritzsche, 1990 Ex-Cab with a few mods!!!!!!!!! Roseville, CA Sobriety =Serenity

tyes [OP]

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Could you post up some pics of your setup? If you have your 3rd pointed up towards the tcase output with regular old U-joints and not the double cardan joint then that might be the issue. Single U-joints are supposed to be installed with the output and input shafts parallel to each other, if that makes any sense to you...

based on what i have researched, you are correct. on the single u-joint they are supposed to be parallel. WHICH is not my setup. My 3rd pinion is point directly to the TC like the double cardan or double cv u-joints. I assume that was the issue. i was also told i need to add a CV double cardan in the rear. but i just cant figure it out why. it will ultimately make my angles worse sinces the double cardan extens out further than the single cardan.. i dont know, but i all confuse. that thought process got installing a single cardan. not sure if that was a mistake or not..
86 T4R V8 1UZ-Fe

twistedtoy92

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Well buddy, I run the double cardan CV on the rear and front drivelines on my wheeler, I welded up my front driveline (which I have to lengthen again due to pushing the front axle another 3 inches forward) and before I parked it I could run 80 mph down the interstate in 4wd with NO vibrations :beerchug: BTW not only have I been building my own yota's for over 12 years and professionally turning wrenches for over 6 years, lots of trial and error! So if you have anymore questions I'd be more than happy to help you out  :thumbs:
« Last Edit: Jun 26, 2014, 01:01:21 PM by twistedtoy92 »
2005 Audi A4 2.0T Quattro 380 AWHP @ 24psi
1993 Toyota Pickup http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=72886.msg866982#msg866982
1992 Toyota Pickup http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=49319.msg616251#msg616251
1985 4runner http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=60737.msg745263#msg745263

"TRIPLE CASES GETS YOU LAID." -BigMike

"I daily drive this thang everyday." (swapped89)

Erick561

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I’ve been tackling this driveshaft vibration on a new setup for a few weeks now. And frankly it’s *&^%$# me off. I just got done installing a 1UZ + dual cases and adapters. This has shorten my drive line to I think 39 inches. On top of that, I have a 5” plus leaf spring lift. The drive shaft has a single cardan. It was freshly built with .120 tubing and stock OEM toyota U joints. U joints are greased up and were checked when it was made. Shaft is also balanced.
I think it has something to do with phasing. As my third points directly up to the transfer case. This worked really well on my previous setup running double cardan shaft.
This is what I have tried:
1.   flipping the driveshaft around.
2.   Taken off the driveshaft and inspect the 3rd flange and the TC flange.
3.   Put jacks stands on, put the car in drive “without” the driveshaft. there are no vibrations. Therefore output bearing to flange nuts are good.
4.   With jack stands on, reconnect the driveshaft and put in gear (D). I could hear the vibration coming from the driveshaft all the way to the 3rd member.
I have driven it a few times around the block on pavement for testing purposes only. I have not driven it above 45MPH.
So I need some advice on where I should take my runner to. I am very picky as I do all work myself and in my garage. I live in Fresno, Ca and I can tow the truck anywhere in this area. I am NOT cheap but I am also NOT a bank. I need someone who has knowledge about this subject and can quickly diagnose and resolve this problem. Thank you guys in advance.
pm sent, my price is lower than competitors and priority mail shipping is faster than economy

Erick561

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Did you see my message?  I saw your message and your response and you didn't come to get it last friday so do you still need the drive shaft this friday

Erick561

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I am NOT cheap but I am also NOT a bank. I need someone who has knowledge about this subject and can quickly diagnose and resolve this problem. Thank you guys in advance.
pm me back on your inquiry for the driveshaft and the clips i have - i'm selling them cheaper than others.  Thanks
Erick561 from www.toyotanation.com, www.pirate4x4.com, www.yotatech.com, www.ttora.com, www.toyotaminis.com, www.hardlinecrawlers.com, www.marlincrawler.com, www.ih8mud.com, etc

 
 
 
 
 

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