Author Topic: BLOWN OUT ALL SIX BOLTS ON DRIVE FLANGE (Read 3776 times)

toyrokcrwlr · « **on:** Jan 16, 2006, 05:23:12 PM »

Has any body ever broke all six bolts on the long side axle drive flange from marlin too!!!. This is the third time I blown out a hub and its pissing me off.

Any suggestions.

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #1 on:** Jan 16, 2006, 05:30:06 PM »

get off the skinny pedal when your in super duper low

toyrokcrwlr · « **Reply #2 on:** Jan 16, 2006, 05:36:10 PM »

You ain't going any where if you don't!!

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #3 on:** Jan 16, 2006, 05:52:08 PM »

i must be old, but if a D-5 Cat dozer wont go i aint takin my truck

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #4 on:** Jan 16, 2006, 05:56:02 PM »

oh man your in kentucky, are you running dual cases ??

kneedownnate · « **Reply #5 on:** Jan 16, 2006, 07:17:01 PM »

Quote from: toyrokcrwlr on Jan 16, 2006, 05:23:12 PM

Has any body ever broke all six bolts on the long side axle drive flange from marlin too!!!. This is the third time I blown out a hub and its pissing me off.

Any suggestions.

A little info on what you're running on what truck would help too. It's hard for people to help if the questioner doesn't lay out what they're running.

Skinny_Pedal · « **Reply #6 on:** Jan 16, 2006, 08:12:16 PM »

Quote from: 79Coyotefrg on Jan 16, 2006, 05:52:08 PM

i must be old, but if a D-5 Cat dozer wont go i aint takin my truck

you must be old school, its all about the d9

toyrokcrwlr · « **Reply #7 on:** Jan 17, 2006, 03:01:58 PM »

Im running a stock 3.0 V6 with the V6 tranny and v6 single transfer case. V6 carrier in front and back with stock 4.10's with detroit lockers the front axle has the 30 spline longfields. I run 35x10.50 buckshots in front and 35x14.50 cut boggers in back.

Every things works perfect and never had any problems with anything else, except the hub I keep blowing out hubs and just went to try the marlins drive flange and ripped all six bolts right off.

kneedownnate · « **Reply #8 on:** Jan 17, 2006, 03:23:27 PM »

Are you talking about the flange that replaces the locking hubs? You're breaking the bolts that hold that on?

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #9 on:** Jan 17, 2006, 03:36:13 PM »

Willy Mammoth · « **Reply #10 on:** Jan 17, 2006, 04:47:37 PM »

If you have any slop or if the holes have any damage they will keep breaking studs.

Make sure all the pin holes and bolt holes are in good shape. You can also have the flanges and hubs drilled for extra pins.

I have even thought about using bigger shouldered bolts in place of the studs like you would see on a full floating rear axle.

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #11 on:** Jan 17, 2006, 05:02:10 PM »

maybe some ring gear bolts

seanc · « **Reply #12 on:** Jan 17, 2006, 06:22:00 PM »

just throw some ARP studs in there, and then your front end should be bullet proof.

S-10 Stewy · « **Reply #13 on:** Jan 17, 2006, 07:58:26 PM »

Dude .... all 6 bolts ... impressive!

Very nice art work Toyrok!

toyrokcrwlr · « **Reply #14 on:** Jan 18, 2006, 04:37:32 PM »

Yes the bolts that hold the flange on.

I had the ARP bolts in it and stilll broke them off.

I know I put it in there right and it was all brand new two weeks ago and i even put a new lock washers on.

I hate to upgrade to dana 60 since I put so much damn money in this front axle alone.

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #15 on:** Jan 18, 2006, 05:22:49 PM »

thats really weird maybe you can put new ones in and then tack weld it to the hub

Willy Mammoth · « **Reply #16 on:** Jan 18, 2006, 05:54:21 PM »

Quote from: 79Coyotefrg on Jan 18, 2006, 05:22:49 PM

thats really weird maybe you can put new ones in and then tack weld it to the hub

Bad idea, that would only make it more fun when having to take it apart if it held.

Get the extra pin holes drilled in the hubs.

Dumb question, are you using the cone washers?

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #17 on:** Jan 18, 2006, 06:01:46 PM »

shouldnt he be using cone washers

toyrokcrwlr · « **Reply #18 on:** Jan 18, 2006, 07:15:37 PM »

Yep, used the cone washers.

What I was thinking was if marlin can come up with a flange with no counter sink holes (for the cone washers to insert) and make it a straight hole and then maybe i can figure a way to drill out new holes and tap them to grade 8 3/8 bolts?

Has anybody ever done that?

S-10 Stewy · « **Reply #19 on:** Jan 19, 2006, 08:51:39 AM »

I hear your idea and can see what your trying to do ... yeah, it might work. Seems like an awful big stud for that area of material...

My guess is that the Toy Engineers used those cones because it made it stronger / more reliable / dependable / what ever you want to call it. If you are one of the very few having this problem then I would say there is something else going on to contribute to the issue. Compared to most other auto manufactures, Toyota engineered and built a very good rig. Designed to last and be abused over time. I don't know if I would rule out using the cones just yet.

ksmith · « **Reply #20 on:** Jan 22, 2006, 02:21:19 PM »

I've done the same thing, I was blowing hubs and went to flanges and now instead of breaking the flange I just shear the studs off. I don't think its that big of a problem, just carry some ez-outs with you in your tool bag and take them out and replace them. Think about it, they're the weak link, what else is after them, not the longs, so the locker or the ring and pinion. They're a lot cheaper and easier to replace than anything else. I have found that making sure the studs are tight helps a lot, if they even get kind of loose then they are a lot weaker. I get on it pretty hard and I'm running 40's, 4.7, 4.88's, locked f/r and the only time I've ever had a problem I was bouncing it about 2 feet in second and staying on the gas. The only other thing that can think of that would help would be to drill some more holes and put more studs in.
Kane Smith
jkanesmith@hotmail.com

toyrokcrwlr · « **Reply #21 on:** Jan 22, 2006, 05:16:13 PM »

I thought about that to and wonder if it be good to cut the guide pins off and add four more holes for the studs and make it 10 studed hub and my thinking is the rotor housing is going to get weaker and thinking of finding cromoly pipe to sleeve over the housing and making the wheel hole just big enough to fit over the sleeve.

Understand what I am coming from?

UNBREAKABLE · « **Reply #22 on:** Jan 22, 2006, 05:42:38 PM »

I agree....it is easier on the pocket replacing studs than lockers and r+p's(takes less time too)

I don't understand how you are blowing the hubs though, I am geared over 200:1 on 35's and I beat the

out of my rig and I haven't ever popped a hub(just so you get an idea of how hard I am on it.....I just had to replace the entire body)

toyrokcrwlr · « **Reply #23 on:** Jan 23, 2006, 05:07:06 PM »

I get alot of tire speed when I hit creek banks and hills, thats why I like my stock drive train and stock 4.10's. I hardly ever see any rock so I am set up different here in kentucky. I only use 1st and 2nd gear when i hit hills.

yotaweelr · « **Reply #24 on:** Jan 24, 2006, 12:53:35 PM »

send wheel hubs to hendrix motorsports, have drilled for 6 hardened pins, along with the 6 studs. should never break again. they just drill 4 more holes.

toyrokcrwlr · « **Reply #25 on:** Jan 24, 2006, 05:29:45 PM »

Do they have the warranty and what if I do shear all the bolts and pins again.

S-10 Stewy · « **Reply #26 on:** Jan 25, 2006, 11:01:11 AM »

send wheel hubs to Hendrix motorsports, have drilled for 6 hardened pins, along with the 6 studs. should never break again. they just drill 4 more holes.

I would be willing to bet you a Benjamen that you "CAN'T" break it after Hendrix is done with it ....... :-)

toyrokcrwlr · « **Reply #27 on:** Jan 25, 2006, 07:15:53 PM »

Ok, your on!

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