Mark
The screw in bushing sets the ball joint preload. Tighten the lower ball joint then use the bushing tool.( I just make on out of 1.25" x.120 wall tubing and a cheap socket) to tighten down the bushing till you get the proper preload. I don't have a book near me but I use 15lbs @ the stearing arm with a fish scale on an empty Knuckle with new ball joints and around 8lbs on a used set.
Ford Chevy and Dodge Knuckles will fit on your inners. I recomend Chevys for the 6 bolt pattern
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Your Scout axles will have 0* caster from the factory and the pinion angle really sucks if you try to rotate for a bit of caster. You may have to cut and turn the inners but it is not really worth it since chevy 44s are so easy to get.
Go Alloy-USA or Superior axles and Bobbys Super u-joints they hold up OK. I break stubs and inners in competition but they earn their $ before they go. I have never broken a Longfield Super U-joint or a CTM and the broken axle count is over 20.
30 spline Birfs will not fit in the D44 knuckle we tried that already, you would have to swap to Toyota Knuckles and outer stuff. You could also put D60 outers on a D44 and use a 35 spline ARB but the $ is big for D60 outer stuff and you really just move the weak point in to the ARB or R&P. Dan Patterson runs one and has broken lots of R&P. I would rather change an axle then a R&P on the trail.
Ball Joints are pressed into the outer Knuckle with a Ball joint press. Looks like a big C- clamp, I have used the Hell out of a $30 HF one for years. Well worth the $ to buy it and the shame of owning stuff from HF
Good luck let me know if I can help with info.
Wayne
