"since the instructions were clear on running it for 30 mins and changing the oil afterwards do it . But why all the oil changes in between? Every engine I've built gets run for a 1000 miles before it's first oil change. remember the first thing in line with the oil system is the filter. Large debris is either caught on the oil pump screen or in the filter. It's all the fine debris gets past the filter that does the damage. if it gets past the filter once it contine to make it past which is why a partially coagulated filter will work better than a fresh filter . With a new engine slight amounts of debris are acceptable for break in since they aid in seating all your new components."
"you run for 30 minutes with 10w40 then changed to 10w30 WHY are you in canada ??
i have rebuilt a dozen or more of these engines (20-22R) and the ones that failed befor 5000 miles had 10w40 in them"
"if anything killed this engine it was the first 2000 miles on 10w30"
I thought it was strange to start with 10w40 and then switch to 10w30, but that is what the rebuilder said he wanted done with the engine. As far as changing the oil so often, oil is cheap and I try to make sure I can get anything that may be floating around in the engine, out.
Very good point on the coagulated filter. I did change the filter with each oil change. I used one of the upper end Fram filters.
I am not a fan of 10w40 and felt uneasy about 10w30, but this is what the rebuilder called for and I had no idea what bearing and piston clearances they were running. I have always been a fan of 20w50.
Synthetic oil is a very good cleaner. If you put it in an engine that has been run on conventional oil, it will turn black very fast as it cleans out the old oil deposits.
I have also seen where people switched early or started with synthetic in a new engine and the rings never seated, so on a street engine, I like to get a few miles on it before switching over.
What oil do you run in your engines?
Thank you for all of your replies.
Ken
