Intro set-up for welding on a toyota

Started by jssgbsn, June 02, 2015, 05:15:35 PM

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jssgbsn

Been reading around and seems like a 220v MIG is the best machine for getting into welding on a rig.

What are the 'stages' for getting into welding on a toyota?

EX:  Stage 1 'X' for 1/4" or less
       Stage 2 'X' for 1/2" or less

Stuff like that. 

Not looking for intricate debate about why such and such stage requires 'x, y, z'.  Just looking for a retard guide to getting started.  The kind you would leave to a 10year old if they were left during an apocolypse and their life depended on their ability to handle rudimentary welding.

Not trying to insult the welding 'pros', just don't wanna be inundated with welding speak, etc, that requires I actualy go to a class.  Lots of us are smart enough to hande the basics without 'formal' education.

***and yes, anybody here is a nerd at heart, i just am not a nerd for welding, and I don't have an interest in becoming one***

***also, if you consider yourself a 'welding nerd' i would assume you are capable of answering my question without having your ego be insulted***

(i.e. just tell somebody to use BG44K without explaining why it is a good thing, etc...)
If I don't ask the stupid question, who will?

85 Runner, 22RE, AEM 'warm intake', TRD Cam, LC Headers, Dual Case, 5.29's, ARB Front Locker, Detroit Rear Locker, 35's, V6 Brakes, ARP Studs, Marlin Arms/Caps/Hy-Steer, Winch, Armor, Can-Back Top....and...

...more Gremlins than Gizmo the Mogwai was responsible for.

jangelfire

Miller 211 auto set is the shizznit!

Snowtoy

Based on your requirements I would opt for a Miller, Hobart, or a Lincoln with 110/220 capability, it will allow you to weld when you only have access to 110, and you can do a lot with 110 and good prep.

Generally speaking material over .120 is a waste of money and unnecessary added weight, design will have more to do with strength and durability over thickness of the steel.
'90 black X-cab mod'd 3.0, 33's/4.88's, rear ARB, custom bumpers, sliders, safari rack, etc.
'91 Blue X-cab 22re, 35's/5.29's,Truetrac front, ARB rear, dual cases, and custom Safari flatbed, bumper, interior.
The money pit '87 Supra resto/mod

84Flatbed

Im new to welding and don't know when ill be comfortable enough to actually weld on my truck. I chose a dual voltage welder (miller 211) because of the versatility and the chance that I won't always have 230v available. Originally I was holding out for a hobart 210mvp, but also considered a lincoln 180 dual, then the miller came up at a decent price so I went for it. Anyway getting a straight 230v welder will be cheaper and will do everything you need.

I would recommend getting at least a 180a welder, like the miller 180 (new 190), Hobart 190 or lincoln 180. I think they are rated for up to 5/16. You probably won't be working with anything thicker than 3/8 on a truck, most the time 1/4 and under, those welders should be able to do a strong enough weld even on 3/8 if needed.

1/2" and up you have to step up quite a bit in price to a larger/ higher amperage welder or multiple passes with the smaller welder. A stick welder for the thicker stuff is also an option.

junya92toy

Even a big welder will need to be mulitpass on think metal.
just learn to bevel, do prep
test your welds on scrap before welding on your truck, do it in the same position as need on truck
Dr.Maxwe001 – well i have a 15 gal compressor now and if I gett he 60  and then use the 15 as a reserve that wil give me 75 gal  thats close to 80 isnt it ?