Broken Birfield Aftermath

[NATO4X4]

I recently had the pleasure of breaking my first birfield. I think I deserved it because I was reversing in 4low with the wheels turned. I have a welded front dif with 4.37s and 36" tires. Lesson learned. I drove around a little before I realized that the loud noise I heard was my birf. When I pulled my axle, the guts of the birf were in pieces. The shrapnel cut my axle seal and gouged the inside of my bell. I'm sure these gouges can be fixed but this being my first one, I was hoping for some pointers on a remedy.

I just bought a 1985 axle with open 4.10s. Would I do better just swaping that one in rather than rebuilding the 1980 with the short gusset? If so, I should probably go ahead and do longfields and 5.29s with some sort of locker. Any input would be appreciated.

[KYOTA]

definately swap in the 85 axle since you have it and yes on the Longs 27 or 30 spline chromo's if you can swing the $$.

[NATO4X4]

definately swap in the 85 axle since you have it and yes on the Longs 27 or 30 spline chromo's if you can swing the $$.

Are the 30 splines alot stronger? Seems like that is the way to go if I'm replacing inners and birfs.

[MiniSimp]

Pics?

[NATO4X4]

Assuming I was keeping the 80 axle, what do people do when the inside of their bells(not sure if thats correct) get chewed up. Does it require some kind of machining or can you just grind down the burs and replace the seal? The reason I ask is that I put alot of work into the 1980 axle. Shaved the bottom, cut off the unnessary brackets, JB welded and smoothed the outside of the birf housing, and painted. I hate to trash it. It could be used in a SAS if it is salvagable.

[NATO4X4]

Hard to see because of the grease, but the inside is all nicked. It seems like the race for the seal is damaged.

[MiniSimp]

It posted fine.

[NATO4X4]

Shows what was grinding around in there.

[MiniSimp]

I've never blown a birf either, so what happens? Can you still drive in 2wd, or can you just not drive at all?

[KYOTA]

Are the 30 splines alot stronger? Seems like that is the way to go if I'm replacing inners and birfs.

read this
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=6068.0

and this
http://www.longfieldsuperaxles.com/graph.html

then look at the pics of Whiteys carnage here
http://www.timbercrawler.com/bb/viewtopic.php?t=7263

[NATO4X4]

I've never blown a birf either, so what happens? Can you still drive in 2wd, or can you just not drive at all?

In 4wd it was hard to drive. I could feel chunks jerking the wheel. It did not want to turn at times.  I 2wd with the hubs locked, I could still feel it. Unlocked the hubs and it was fine, at least driveable.

[Yota4life]

I want to replace my birfs with some longs before i break my first one.

[NATO4X4]

read this
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=6068.0

and this
http://www.longfieldsuperaxles.com/graph.html

then look at the pics of Whiteys carnage here
http://www.timbercrawler.com/bb/viewtopic.php?t=7263

30 splines look like the best option for me.

Whiteys carnage makes mine look not so bad.

[Haz-matt]

With the welded front, always pull your birf as soon as you can after breaking.  If you hit speed and suddenly can't turn it sucks in trafic.

I've never seen a toyota axle that had good seals after a little bit of use so I can't say on it but as for the bell, even with the nics and scrapes it's fine.  I've got a buddy who has broken 20+ birfs in an axle housing and has no problems.  just gets easier to pull after a while.

[derek]

dremel is your friend.
had to clean up the seal surface and inside the ball of mine when i blew my ols ringed long.
always try and replace or pull the birf as soon as you blow it.
even with the hubs unlocked and in 2wd parts of the birf can wedge and prevent your ability to turn.

derek

[86yota]

I just use a dremel like Derek said.  That does not really look bad at all.  Wait until a few more break in there.  My old housing was so chewed up in the bells that I could not put a seal in it anymore.  One of the bells finally cracked.  (from where the lower trunion bearing race goes out toward the end)  I would defiantly swap in the 85 axle for strength, but not just because of the bell in the 80.

[NATO4X4]

I just use a dremel like Derek said. That does not really look bad at all. Wait until a few more break in there. My old housing was so chewed up in the bells that I could not put a seal in it anymore. One of the bells finally cracked. (from where the lower trunion bearing race goes out toward the end) I would defiantly swap in the 85 axle for strength, but not just because of the bell in the 80.

Thanks for the input. I have already preped the 85 axle. I did not shave it but I reinforced the front with 3/16" diamond plate, reinforced the steering stops, and made a gusset out of 3/8" plate. I'll try to post it soon. I think I'll use the knuckles from the 80 because they are clean and painted. For now I'm going to run the open diff from the 85 3rd. I'm considering putting the 4.37 r&p on the open diff and using the stock birfs for now. I also have an 87 4 cyl rear end with 4.10s. Would my 80 rear 3rd member( welded) slip on the 87 axle? I'm just not sure if those are interchangable.

[KYOTA]

yes

[NATO4X4]

yes

Thanks for your help KYOTA. Another quick question, If I put the open carrier in the 1980 3rd member with the 4.37s, what will I have to do to set it up properly? Should it remain set since I'm only changing the carrier and not pulling the pinion? I did a search and have not found anything about setting up 3rd members.

[NATO4X4]

Here is the 85 axle so far. Gusset, front skid, steering stops reinforced, axle shims welded on. I'm waiting on napa to get some inner axle seals.

[Hyena]

I just sent my birfs out to Bobby to have them heat treated and frozen.  I will be putting my detriot in front and it is a little worn out so hopefully i won't break a birf, but i got spares ontop of spares so i am ok.  I have also heard that is good to replace the birf before driving anywear becasue it could lock up the steering.

[awhotrods]

Here is the 85 axle so far. Gusset, front skid, steering stops reinforced, axle shims welded on. I'm waiting on napa to get some inner axle seals.

looks pretty

[86yota]

Awsome looking housing man.  As far as changing the carier out and not having to set it up, provided the pinion stays in place.  I think the only thing you have to do is set the backlash.  Don't quote me on that though.  Contact ZUK first.  You can E-mail him from his website, www.gearinstals.com.  I have E-mailed him questions before, hes always very nice and quick to respond.

[mr4x42u]

Thanks for your help KYOTA. Another quick question, If I put the open carrier in the 1980 3rd member with the 4.37s, what will I have to do to set it up properly? Should it remain set since I'm only changing the carrier and not pulling the pinion? I did a search and have not found anything about setting up 3rd members.

just pull the third and put it in the 85 housing..no messing with gears will be needed...really if you want to switch the thirds you wond need to set up the gears..yes if you start pulling ring and pinions out you will need to reset everything,,pinion depthe and backlash,,bearing preload..just swap out the third and you won't have to mess with any of that..

[NATO4X4]

just pull the third and put it in the 85 housing..no messing with gears will be needed...really if you want to switch the thirds you wond need to set up the gears..yes if you start pulling ring and pinions out you will need to reset everything,,pinion depthe and backlash,,bearing preload..just swap out the third and you won't have to mess with any of that..

I might just do that. The reason I was thinking of using the 80 housing and r&p is that it has 4.37s as opposed to the 4.10s in the 85 housing. I think I want to ditch the welded carrier and run an open front until I break again and get longs and a selectable locker.

I have read a few threads on here that say for trail only vehicles, a 4.10 will be ok. My feeling is a 4.37 is not a 4.88 but its lower than a 4.10 so I might as well use it.