Topic: Front Suspension Questions

[lostbuckaroo]

I picked my 84' this winter and have been building/working on it since.. it's come a long ways but I've kinda found the limitations of my current setup. I would eventually like to link it but that's going to have to wait till I've got more time and $$$. I've been having an issue with the passenger side front tire stuffing back into the back of the fender/body mount at full compression when the tire is turned completely to he right. I'm just wondering if there is something simple here that I'm missing.. (Bump Stops?) Because I know that there are other guys out there running similar setups on lower ride hight. 

Note: I recently upgraded from 35x12.50 to 36x12.50 tires But I was having the same issue with the 35's, Also I'm only having this issue on the right..(passenger side)..

Here's my basic setup

Front

Stock Toy Axle Housing, RCV Chomo Axles/Birfs
TG High Steer
TG 5" Front Springs/Lift Kit

Rear
Stock Toy Axles Housing Stock Axles
Chevy 63" Springs and lift blocks.

Tires 36x12.50 Swamper SX w about 50/60% tread left.





You can see here the spring is pretty flat at this point..


If I trim much more out of the wheel well I'll be cutting into the body mount and floorboard.

[Nation]

I have no idea.. but that's a nice Tractor 

[OOPS]

If you are running the stock location on the front axle you will need to cut and tub the floorboard to gain clearance.

This will give you an idea of what I am talking about!!

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyota-truck-4runner/1663089-tubbing-firewall-fenders.html

[lostbuckaroo [OP]]

I was afraid of that thank you for the post man! 

[toyodaaddict]

I dont know why tg, ap,etc dont offset the pin more to get the axle further forward. Just one more reason I like ruf. My ruf sit way lower than tg 5''rs but they put my axle alot further forward. In a perfect world I would suggest moving your whole front setup forward but at this point that would be ALOT of work. I think tubbing the firewall is the easiest way out. My opinion, if your not running bump stops, you should be regardless of if it fixes this issue.

[twistedtoy92]

If it was me, I'd redo my front hanger and push it forward a 1/2'' or so.... I always like the better approach angle anyway, although its a bit of a project, you'd be much happier with the end results

[84Flatbed]

I think the easiest way is to drill your spring perch ( one side usually already has a couple holes) and u bolt plates. I think the existing hole on the driver side is 1 3/8" off center, do the same to the passenger side.

[1985CRAWLER]

i had the same problem before i went with ruf, still have it but not as much. i have yet to cut and tub it yet, a big sledge hammer is a temporary fix but at full stuff itll still rub.

if u dont feel like cutting or welding just do what 84flatbed suggested.

also flatten that pinch seam all the way flat if u can, eventually that edge will start to cut into the tire. same for the body mount piece, flatten it back as far as u can and it wont be as bad.

[lostbuckaroo [OP]]

Thanks all for the replies. I've considered like one of you suggested replacing or drilling my spring perches..-or - Ruff stuff for instance sells the the multi position perches and U-Bolt plates.. If I did that I would probably have to get a shorter pitman arm or cut and drill my current arm..

I've also considered tubbing my floor board. And as said before I don't understand why they don't move the spring hanger further forward on the TG kits.. The only reason I can see why not is because the shackle hanger in the rear inside the body mount (think I just answered my own question)

I think to get me through the rest of the season I will just trim some more and drive carefully.. But ultimately this winter it's looking like I will be linking the front end 

[84Flatbed]

Buying new perches and ubolt plates would be a waste of money and time, the parts you have now are fine and would only take a couple hours of your time. It sounds like regardless of what you do, moving spring hanger, drilling perches, different offset springs, the problem you would have to deal with first would be moving your steering box forward.

[hunmetal]

Im getting rdy to install ruf on my truck. Just out of curiosity how far forward does it move the axle compared to tg/stock position?

[84Flatbed]

Not all of this is 100% accurate but the info on the chart should be helpful. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/9608132-post1.html

[81 shortbed]

Im getting rdy to install ruf on my truck. Just out of curiosity how far forward does it move the axle compared to tg/stock position?

Mine moved forward about 2 inches

[1985CRAWLER]

Mine moved forward about 2 inches

X2,

also depends on what year pack, 3rd gen pack will be different.

[hunmetal]

Ok so follow up question: I am still running the push/pull steering and don't plan on doing high steer for a while. Will the ruf move forward mess with the steering? I am running an S shaped drag link and there is a little bit of adjustment to shorten/lengthen there. I guess my question is, has anybody run a ruf pack with stock power steering?
Sry to hijack your thread lostbuckaroo 

[81 shortbed]

I had manual steering when I did my ruf. Iirc the axle moving forward caused my steering to be pulled forward and I couldn't get a full steer one way

[hunmetal]

HMM makes sense. Guess Ill give it a shot, hopefully I can shorten the drag link enough to make it work. If not im going to highsteer anway. Thanks

[zidaro]

sledge hammer that pinch weld and that will help you from slashing your tires.

sky off road sells axle relocation plates that will shim your front forward an inch.  super easy and cheap.