Topic: Picture of shifter bushing on shifter

[jpluddite]

Hi guys.

I have an 89 toyota 4x4 pickup and I want to replace the shift-lever ball seat and the socket (bushing). I found a picture and installation instructions for the seat, but I haven't found a picture for the socket. Can anyone point me to a picture of the socket on the shifter lever?

I'm not quite sure I fully understand what the socket is. Is it a replacement for the ball? Does it go above the ball?

Thanks guys,

jp

[Cheesemaker]

Does this help?

[jpluddite [OP]]

Thanks. That's exactly what I was looking for!

So, just for certainty...the plastic piece in your picture is the same piece as shown at this url: http://www.marlincrawler.com/transmission/shifter-parts/heavy-duty-shift-lever-socket. Right?

I think I understand why changing the seat will help with shifter slop, but what does replacing the socket do?

Thanks again,

[OOPS]

Helps with slop also!!

[BigMike]

jpluddite,

Yes that is the correct link and you'd want the "All other common Toyota Applications" version for your '89

We do have additional pictures of the seat on Page 4 Step 21 of our Short Throw Kit installer here, please have a look. I will see about getting some extra info for the socket added to the site

Thanks and to land!

BigMike

[jpluddite [OP]]

Thanks BigMike.

I had heard that removing the ring can sometimes be tricky--specially for a 25-year-old truck. So, rather than risk damaging the ring or the plate, I took the truck to a couple different shops to see if they'd do. Both of them claimed to have tried and surrendered (I don't know how hard they tried, though).

I live in Central PA near Lebanon in area code 17042. Do any of you know of a mechanic near me who'd be willing to do this job?

I'm tempted to take it to the dealership but I don't think they'd install non-Toyota parts,

I'll appreciate any guidance you offer.

Thanks again

[BigMike]

I think I understand why changing the seat will help with shifter slop, but what does replacing the socket do?

The Socket isolates the metal shift handle from the metal shift shoe inside the transmission. Without the socket, we would have direct metal-on-metal contact which would 1) wear out more rapidly and 2) cause metal debris to fall and float around inside the transmission. Therefore Toyota designed a type of insulator called the socket that separates the two metal objects from one another. Over time the socket will wear out by becoming thinner usually on its front and rear sides as that is the direction associated with the most amount of shifting force by the driver.

For this reason we have developed a Heavy Duty version of the socket that is made from a slightly harder material and has a more precise / tighter fit to the shift shoe. The result is that you will have less slop or looseness in the shift handle / shift pattern and the socket will wear longer, more than likely to outlast the transmission.

Sometimes we find sockets that have completely worn through on one side, such as the rearward facing side from the driving doing a lot of down shifting into 3rd or forcing 1st gear by pushing forward hard on the shift handle. We see some sockets that are so severely worn out that the metal shift handle is actually contacting the metal shift shoe and has already begun wearing down the shift shoe. It's not uncommon to have to replace the shift shoe as a result from total neglect of a worn out socket.

Our HD Shift Sockets breathe new life into worn out shifters and prevent shifter and socket damage by lasting longer than their stock counterpart. It is true that a badly worn out (or missing) shift seat will result in more shifter slop than a badly worn out (or missing) shift socket, however damage caused from a missing shift seat is easy to replace (replace the shift handle & base) whereas damage caused from a missing shift socket will require opening up the transmission to replace the damaged shift shoe. So definitely replace it if your stock part does not fit tight and snug on the end of your shift handle In my experience if I'm gonna be in there in the first place, then I'll just replace em both with the higher performing H.D. parts and never worry about them again.

Regards,
BigMike

[BigMike]

I had heard that removing the ring can sometimes be tricky--specially for a 25-year-old truck.

It is actually not tricky at all. Even if I wasn't trained, figuring it out is pretty straightforward, especially if you have a genuine Toyota repair manual.

Regardless if your 1989 has a chain drive transfer case (R150F 6cyl transmission or G58 4cyl transmission) or a gear drive transfer case (W56-C transmission), they both use the same style of shift handle retainer, and you can use information from our Short Throw Installer as a guide:

• Steps 2-5 describe removing your shift handle (the process you've heard is tricky)
• Steps 19-20 describe installing our HD Seat
• Step 21 describes installing our HD Socket
• and Steps 22-24 describe re-installing your shift handle. Done!  (the process you've heard is tricky)

Take a quick look at that and let me know what you think. (In other notes the "Shift Shoe" discussed above is shown to the image left of Step 8 and that is what the Socket is lowered into upon installation)

Here is the common 4cyl W56-C trans:


...and here is the common 6cyl R150F trans:


Compare both transmission shifter holes (from the perspective of these images, both are the left shifter hole). They are both round, both have the same locking slot for the shift handle boot, and both have steel pins at center from which their handle pivots on. No matter which type you have, the steps from the above guide should give you a pretty good idea of what's involved to get the Seat and Socket replaced

Regards,
BigMike

[jpluddite [OP]]

Hi Mike.

Thanks for the detailed response!

I have a 22RE with the W56C transmission. The mechanics said that the ring wouldn't budge and they were afraid that if they tried too hard that the ring would break or the shifter platform would would crack. [They did know that you're supposed to push down on it.]

Maybe I was unclear when I described to them what I wanted.

Here's an unrelated question: when you replace a W56C transmision, I assume that you have to remove the shift handle from the base at some point. Is that correct?

[BigMike]

Thanks for the detailed response!

We provide a community service and pray we get it right most of the time

I have a 22RE with the W56C transmission. The mechanics said that the ring wouldn't budge and they were afraid that if they tried too hard that the ring would break or the shifter platform would would crack. [They did know that you're supposed to push down on it.]

Yeah, if you don't press down and rotate it first, then you will shear both shift pins, which on stock bases are not rebuildable (they are rebuildable on our Short Throw bases), and you'd have to replace the shifter base. So good thing they didn't have Hulk Hogan working on your rig.

when you replace a W56C transmision, I assume that you have to remove the shift handle from the base at some point. Is that correct?

10-4. I'd do this for Step #1: Get all the work done from above and provide a nice vent for all my gear oil to drain out quickly.

It might be possible, and someone somewhere has probably done it, but no shop would consider doing this as it would risk messing up the powder coating on the shift handle and generally mess a lot of stuff up (tear shifter boots, damage interior carpet, break those small plastic anchors that your interior shift boot screws down with, et cetera). To drop the transmission, it will need to be separated from the engine block far enough to clear both the flywheel and clutch pressure plate, which extend past the block a good half foot or more. Also to access the top two bellhousing bolts you'll need to lower the rear of the transmission quite a lot (short of having a huge body lift), which would jam the transmission shift handle into the cab. We've seen bases crack from the cab contacting the shift handle in a wreck, so considering the combined leverage of the long handle, it just isn't worth the risk of breaking your own parts.

I missed these so here goes...

I live in Central PA near Lebanon in area code 17042. Do any of you know of a mechanic near me who'd be willing to do this job?

Sorry but I do not.

I'm tempted to take it to the dealership but I don't think they'd install non-Toyota parts

It might be different on the east coast where there isn't much Rock Crawling available, but west of Nebraska and in southern states like Texas and Arkansas you'd be surprised at how many customers of ours are actual Toyota Technicians and have built Rock Crawlers themselves. I think you'd be pleasantly surprised with a dealer, especially with simple parts like a seat and/or socket. I guess it doesn't hurt to just ask. They should guarantee the labor but probably not the parts since they are not theirs, and we of course guarantee our parts but we don't guarantee the labor since it's not ours. So combined everything would be covered

Regards,
BigMike

[jpluddite [OP]]

Thanks BigMike.

I'll order the parts in the morning. How long do you think it will take for them to get to PA?

[BigMike]

They will ship the same day you place the order, so have a look at this, from our Shipping and Handling terms:



Areas near Lebanon seem to be in the 5-business-day range for FedEx Ground/Home delivery. We do offer a slightly lower cost shipping method through USPS, but the packages are still handled by FedEx and as a result they take a couple days longer than what you see on the map. At any rate it would go out and you'd be able to track it beginning the following morning (as soon as FedEx updates their system during the night). So I'd say plan for a week's transit time and you should be good. If you ship standard FedEx Ground/Home, they deliver on Saturdays whereas the USPS does not.

Thank you for considering our products! Our HD Seat and Socket are one of our most popular items and I'm sure you will not be disappointed

BigMike

[Cheesemaker]

Yeah unlocking the locking ring on the shifter can be a pregnant dog!!  But persistence pays off.  I use a couple of flat head screwdrivers to push down and turn the ring. 


RS, I live just over an hour from WA, and I got to WA from time to time. 

[jpluddite [OP]]

To make sure I order the correct parts, I have a 1989 Toyota 4x4 pickup. The engine is 22re, and the transmission is W56-C.

So, I need to get the white shifter ball seat and the 'all other' socket, right?

Thanks,

[BigMike]

To make sure I order the correct parts, I have a 1989 Toyota 4x4 pickup. The engine is 22re, and the transmission is W56-C.

So, I need to get the white shifter ball seat and the 'all other' socket, right?

Indeed, those are the correct parts!

RS, I live just over an hour from WA, and I got to WA from time to time. 

Wrong thread ya clown!

BigMike

[jpluddite [OP]]

Okay, I ordered.

I'll let you guys know how it feels once the shifter parts are in.

Thanks again,

[jpluddite [OP]]

I got the parts but am having trouble getting any of the local shops to install them. So, I might do it myself and hope for the best. Here are a few paranoid questions:

1. How do I keep the remnants of the old shifter seat from falling into the transmission?

2. I noticed that the instructions for replacing the shift socket say that I need to make sure it's securely attached and level. Make sense! But, if I do a poor job or if the end of the shifter is worn, can the shift socket just fall off in the transmission one day? If so, what would happen?

Thanks guys,

[Cheesemaker]

Usually the shifter seat, you just pull out.  The one I had in mine was just a rubber gasket like thing.  And for the shifter socket, it will fit very securely onto the shifter seat.  It will actually "POP" on, if this makes sense.  It's all rather easy to do.  The hardest is pulling the flooring/carpet, and removing the shifter lock.  (push and turn)

[BigMike]

Cheesy is right, the hardest part is lifting your interior parts to get to your shifter base.

1. How do I keep the remnants of the old shifter seat from falling into the transmission?

I'd say this is only a concern if your old seat is really eroded and worn into multiple pieces. Most of the time the stock seat will just be worn thin and you'll be able to remove it using your fingers or needle nose pliers without fear of it breaking apart. So long as you've keep the proper level of gear oil in your transmission, it won't be brittle and flakey, rather it would be mushy and oil-logged.

You could always place some tissue into the hole of the shifter base so that if anything did happen to fall into the transmission, you could pull it out along with the tissue once you are done.

2. ... or if the end of the shifter is worn, can the shift socket just fall off in the transmission one day?

Yes, if the ball at the end of your shift handle is badly worn down, then our socket will may not "snap" onto and fit snuggly. The good news is that the only way for the ball at the end of your shift handle to become even 1% worn is if your stock shift socket was completely worn through. This does happen, especially if the transmission has been ran low on gear oil for many miles and/or the driver likes to rest his or her knee up against the shift handle for thousands and thousands of miles -- but by this time the shift handle would have such a sloppy fit that you may not even be able to engage gears unless you really pushed hard each time into each gear. In other words this is a pretty extreme case and if you can at least engage gears now, then you have a very good chance that your existing socket is not worn out entirely.

Our HD Socket does have a tighter fit than the stock socket so really this shouldn't be a concern. Also if you do a poor job at installing the socket then you actually wouldn't be able to install the shift handle. If the socket is not 100% snapped onto the ball of the shift handle, then the shift handle wouldn't be able to lower down far enough into the transmission to get it to lock in place up at the base. There really is only one way our HD socket will "snap" into place. There is no half-way inserting of the socket. If it is not 100% correctly installed then it won't install at all. It's pretty installed or not installed, all or nothing. What is an example.... Sort of like a safety pop on the lid of a glass jar. The safety is either popped up or popped down. There is no in between poppage.

If so, what would happen?

If you dropped bits of your old stock seat or our HD socket fell into your transmission and you just left them, the good news is that they are soft polymer material that won't break any gears inside the transmission. Probably the worst case would be if some bits of chewed up nylon got trapped in an oil passage which could starve a thrust washer or gear of oil. But the pieces would very likely just get quickly chewed up and would live in the transmission indefinitely without causing catastrophic damage.

BigMike