I'm in the process of swapping in an '86 22RE (with 22R carb retrofitted) into my '81 Aussie RN46 Hilux pickup and I've struck a couple of issues.
First one is that the original motor - here it was an 18R-C - had two 16mm OD hollow pins to locate the bellhousing (positioned in counterbores around then 2nd bellhousing bolt from the bottom on each side) where the 22R has 2x~10mm dowels, one is on the left and one up between the top bolts. My L4# gearbox has cast bosses to take the 22R style dowels but they're not drilled.
This L4# box has a separate bellhousing and best I can see an aluminium tail housing. My build plate is missing so I don't know if its an L43, L45 etc.
I'm faced with this dilemma.
1. Use the existing M12 hole in the bellhousing boss on the block as a guide and carefully drill out to 16mm, punch in 18R style pins.
Accuracy?
2.Use 22R rear plate as a template and drill dowel holes in the bellhousing for 22R dowels - concerned about accuracy of the rear plate's drilling.
3.Punch out all the dowels, run with none and align transmission carefully with weight supported, using the bolts to align (but not using them to pull the trans and motor together). I have mocked it up like this, seems ok....
2nd issue.
My L4# has a cast fork with U-shaped pins retaining the release bearing. Fork and slave are the return spring type.
The clutch kit supplied came with a release bearing and carrier which I would surmise is designed for the pressed steel fork which runs the clips around the posts on the fork; the clutch manufacturer don't make an alternative.
I couldn't see a way to run the fork and new release bearing so I left the old one in...I now see everything is at max adjustment and the clutch only begins disengaging about 1/2" off the firewall. The heights of the release bearings seem about the same, so I'm wondering if the pressed fork protrudes further forward where it meets the throwout?
Is it likely to be a bleed issue - I'm thinking not, as it feels fine, just super long travel - or will I need to change to the plate type fork (W boxes and 4X2s seem to use them) , use a longer pivot ball etc?
Its a straight swap they said...everything bolts in they said...haha
