The simplest mod

Started by hunmetal, March 10, 2012, 12:24:39 AM

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hunmetal

I have been doing a lot of research to get more bang for my buck out of my 22r.
I looked at the 20rhead on the 22rblock and concluded that it wasnt worth it (being that i dont have a 20rhead) Also as with most things on the internet all the info is conflicting, sombody says this will work someone else says it wont. Right now ive got an 84 with a stock 22r running a weber and doug thorelys and a flowmaster. I am going to do the timingchain and headgasket (to get rid of the plastic guides and the headgasket cause i dont know how many miles r on it) what can i do while im in there to up my performace? Im guessing the answer is put in some sort of cam, or?? Any advice would be greatly
appreciated. Of course I would like to keep the cost down, but who wouldnt.

BadnewsBob

In my opinion, Shave the head just a little and leave the rest alone. they work best as is. :twocents:
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Yota87Truck

The only advice on the R series motors that I have heard that isn't conflicting is open up the air flow.  Maybe a little better intake or fuel management system and 2-1/4" exhaust with a header.  This is the only thing I have heard that improves power and maintains reliability.  Everything else gets expensive really quick and still only gains a few horses and the motor life is drastically diminished.  I have a friend with a stock turbo that gets up and goes on the street pretty good. But when he tired to sell it there wasn't much interest in the truck for unknown reasons.  I am assuming that people are concerned about the cost of the turbo and possibly the reliability.  I personally would not run a turbo on a stock motor though.

2manytoys

I'm running a 22RE but, when I rebuilt it wasn't any extra to run a performance cam vs. a stock cam. Mine does run better. 

I also always gasket match my ports and blend the bowls to improve flow. My valves were in bad shape and it wasn't much more to install slightly bigger valves with necked down stems. ENGNBLDR has pretty good parts for good prices.

A good flowing intake and exhaust and a proper tuneup make a difference. It will alway be a 4 banger though. You're not going to get V8 power.


79coyotefrog will probably chime in. He seems to like LC stuff. Great stuff but, pricey.

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hunmetal

I already have headers(the doug thorleys i mentioned) and as far shaving the head what does that do, bump the compression a few cc? I believe thats what the 20/22r hybrid does (makes the combustion chamber smaller by 10cc and rearranges the power band due to the smaller intake ports?) Can i accomplish similar results by porting the 22r head and putting in a performance cam?
How exactly does the cam help? What do larger valves do? Thanks again for your advice.

Slolyfe

Get a torquey cam. Only 169 at LC Engineering, they have a bunch of different ones. Give them a call and tell them what you are doing and they will set you up right.

Cams tell the valves how far to open and for how long to stay open. Hence letting in more fuel/air and letting out more exhaust. For a more efficiently running motor.
You'll never take me alive

79coyotefrg

Quote from: hunmetal on March 10, 2012, 10:44:28 AM
I already have headers(the doug thorleys i mentioned) and as far shaving the head what does that do, bump the compression a few cc? I believe thats what the 20/22r hybrid does (makes the combustion chamber smaller by 10cc and rearranges the power band due to the smaller intake ports?) Can i accomplish similar results by porting the 22r head and putting in a performance cam?
How exactly does the cam help? What do larger valves do? Thanks again for your advice.
do NOT shave the head for any reason besides cleaning up scratches.  if you mill the head then you MUST use an adjustable cam gear since milling the 22R head or decking the block makes the timing chain looser.
the 20R head doesnt greatly raise the compression ratio (unless using a early aka 75 ish, head) what it does do is flow air/fuel much MUCH better than the 22R head.
   you will never port the 22R head to flow as efficiently as the 20R head. 
I choose LCE cams because of the lobe profile.  they stay open longer than most other companies cams do thus flowing more air and not floating valves as quickly as a cam thats profile drops off sharply.
AR-TTORA founder 22R bored.060,LCE stage II race cam http://pure-gas.org/    32/36weber, :driving: Marlin 1200 NON ceramic clutch, L52SHD+dualcase #2919, cable-locker, Yukon 5.29 gears, 35's, Allpro ebrake, front springs, and high steer, F150rears    RIP Nitro 9-29-07 :(  I sure miss him :down: MarlinCrawlerInc IS NOT affiliated with TrailGear in any way

79coyotefrg

Quote from: hunmetal on March 10, 2012, 10:44:28 AM
I already have headers(the doug thorleys i mentioned) and as far shaving the head what does that do, bump the compression a few cc? I believe thats what the 20/22r hybrid does (makes the combustion chamber smaller by 10cc and rearranges the power band due to the smaller intake ports?)...
NO,  the smaller ports have nothing to do with the "power band"
AR-TTORA founder 22R bored.060,LCE stage II race cam http://pure-gas.org/    32/36weber, :driving: Marlin 1200 NON ceramic clutch, L52SHD+dualcase #2919, cable-locker, Yukon 5.29 gears, 35's, Allpro ebrake, front springs, and high steer, F150rears    RIP Nitro 9-29-07 :(  I sure miss him :down: MarlinCrawlerInc IS NOT affiliated with TrailGear in any way

79coyotefrg

Quote from: hunmetal on March 10, 2012, 12:24:39 AM
I have been doing a lot of research to get more bang for my buck out of my 22r.
I looked at the 20rhead on the 22rblock and concluded that it wasnt worth it (being that i dont have a 20rhead) Also as with most things on the internet all the info is conflicting, sombody says this will work someone else says it wont. Right now ive got an 84 with a stock 22r running a weber and doug thorelys and a flowmaster.
the people that say its not worth it or that it wont work didnt do it right or didnt do it at all.


QuoteI am going to do the timingchain and headgasket (to get rid of the plastic guides and the headgasket cause i dont know how many miles r on it) what can i do while im in there to up my performace? Im guessing the answer is put in some sort of cam, or?? Any advice would be greatly
appreciated. Of course I would like to keep the cost down, but who wouldnt.
head gaskets don't wear out.  My original 20R had 190,000 on it and if it hadnt started burning oil I would probably still be driving it.
if you have the pre august 1984 block then you could install a 20R timing kit.  it will bolt right up unless you have some strange things going on.
AR-TTORA founder 22R bored.060,LCE stage II race cam http://pure-gas.org/    32/36weber, :driving: Marlin 1200 NON ceramic clutch, L52SHD+dualcase #2919, cable-locker, Yukon 5.29 gears, 35's, Allpro ebrake, front springs, and high steer, F150rears    RIP Nitro 9-29-07 :(  I sure miss him :down: MarlinCrawlerInc IS NOT affiliated with TrailGear in any way

hunmetal

Okay so the best thing to do would be to put the 20rhead on the 22rblock and put a torquey cam in the 20rhead. Does LC engineering make a cam for the 20rhead? I have heard that the 20rhead bolts on with NO modification, is that true? I have also heard that you can use the rocker assembly from the 22r ( which uses aluminum rockers thus lightening the valve train) on the 20rhead without modification, is that true? If this will work I think I will try to find a 20rhead.

hunmetal

I believe my 22r is an 83, is there anyway to tell?

hunmetal

BTW Glen I have read about half of your budget rebuild thread, a lot of  chit chat but there r many gems of information
:bowdown:

79coyotefrg

Quote from: hunmetal on March 10, 2012, 08:48:34 PM
Okay so the best thing to do would be to put the 20rhead on the 22rblock and put a torquey cam in the 20rhead. Does LC engineering make a cam for the 20rhead?
ok,  first thing is these "rv" and "torque" cams are a joke. these are the cams that snap the valve shut immediately after reaching full open.   these engines don't need any help with torque.  for a 4 cylinder engine they are torque monsters. 
2nd, all the aftermarket cams for 20R and 22R engines are the same. 
I suggest this one,  http://www.lceperformance.com/Camshaft-20R-22R-RE-RET-Street-Performer-Cam-p/1022054.htm

QuoteI have heard that the 20rhead bolts on with NO modification, is that true?
Yes
QuoteI have also heard that you can use the rocker assembly from the 22r ( which uses aluminum rockers thus lightening the valve train) on the 20rhead without modification, is that true? If this will work I think I will try to find a 20rhead.
yes,  you need new rockers with the new cam and they should be the alum 22R rockers

AR-TTORA founder 22R bored.060,LCE stage II race cam http://pure-gas.org/    32/36weber, :driving: Marlin 1200 NON ceramic clutch, L52SHD+dualcase #2919, cable-locker, Yukon 5.29 gears, 35's, Allpro ebrake, front springs, and high steer, F150rears    RIP Nitro 9-29-07 :(  I sure miss him :down: MarlinCrawlerInc IS NOT affiliated with TrailGear in any way

hunmetal

Just looked at a set of rockers from lc, ouch! Mucho mula im guessing if i get a new cam i cant use the old 22r rockers...

hunmetal

How about the cam shaft bearings can I reuse those? :dunno:

79coyotefrg

Quote from: hunmetal on March 11, 2012, 10:20:05 AM
Just looked at a set of rockers from lc, ouch! Mucho mula im guessing if i get a new cam i cant use the old 22r rockers...
a competent machine shop can make most used rocker arms look like new.

Quote from: hunmetal on March 11, 2012, 10:27:14 AM
How about the cam shaft bearings can I reuse those? :dunno:
they dont have camshaft bearings. 

Engnbldr sells 20R heads with larger valves in them I believe, but get your cam from LCE
AR-TTORA founder 22R bored.060,LCE stage II race cam http://pure-gas.org/    32/36weber, :driving: Marlin 1200 NON ceramic clutch, L52SHD+dualcase #2919, cable-locker, Yukon 5.29 gears, 35's, Allpro ebrake, front springs, and high steer, F150rears    RIP Nitro 9-29-07 :(  I sure miss him :down: MarlinCrawlerInc IS NOT affiliated with TrailGear in any way

Tallchevy

IIRC, LC recommends you change the valve springs too when using one of their cams.
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hunmetal

When i said bearings i meant the cam journal caps, I'll call LC and ask them what to replace with my new cam shaft. Thanks for all the advice. One thing though, why the street performer cam? It makes sense that the 22r doesnt need help with torque, but what does the street performer do over the stock cam?

79coyotefrg

if the journal caps are scared the head probably is also.  the caps come with a new head.
the street performer gives you more power where you need it,  moving the power band up a little so when you are getting on the freeway or pulling a long hill in 4th gear.
I run a stage II race cam myself and can pull out to 55mph in 3rd gear with no problem at all.  but the stage II requires piston notching.
trust me you will see a big difference :driving:   
AR-TTORA founder 22R bored.060,LCE stage II race cam http://pure-gas.org/    32/36weber, :driving: Marlin 1200 NON ceramic clutch, L52SHD+dualcase #2919, cable-locker, Yukon 5.29 gears, 35's, Allpro ebrake, front springs, and high steer, F150rears    RIP Nitro 9-29-07 :(  I sure miss him :down: MarlinCrawlerInc IS NOT affiliated with TrailGear in any way

hunmetal

Alright im gonna give it a shot, ill post up about how it goes. Thanks again for all the advice.
:phone: LCE and Engnbldr