newbie from Duarte

Started by czny, February 13, 2012, 09:43:44 AM

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czny

Hi all!

I've been twisting wrenches on my own vehicles since '72 & decided to build a first gen 79 short bed for my move to NE Oregon.
Nothing too radical - 20Rhead/22R block, W56 w/4.7 dual transfer, 1" body lift, 3" spring lift(RUF/S10s or F150s), 33" or 35" tires.
Spartan lockers F & R, or Spartan front diff & Grizzly rear diff? Stock 4.37s or 4.88s?

83 Crawler

Welcome! I'm from Portland oregon

czny

Quote from: 83crawler12 on February 13, 2012, 10:31:31 AM
Welcome! I'm from Portland oregon
Thanks!
I've got relatives in Bend, Eugene & Bandon on the coast.

I guess my question is: What is preferable for DD & trail use, Spartans F & R, or Spartan F & a Grizzly R with stock 4.37 gears?
I'll be resealing the F & R axles so while I'm in there what R&P ratio is generally preferred for 33"/35" tires?

 

83 Crawler

 529 for 35s and 488 for 33 and I like the grizzly locker

czny

Quote from: 83crawler12 on February 13, 2012, 03:13:29 PM
529 for 35s and 488 for 33 and I like the grizzly locker

Thanks for input.
Does anyone bother with a rev limiter ignition like the MSD 6AL?
Or do you just depend on your tuner ears & hope your RPM doesn't run away going downhill? 

Rocksurfer

The Ghost-Rider/Ghost Runner

No matter how far you fall, the ground will always catch you

79coyotefrg

Quote from: czny on February 13, 2012, 06:59:40 PM
Thanks for input.
Does anyone bother with a rev limiter ignition like the MSD 6AL?
Or do you just depend on your tuner ears & hope your RPM doesn't run away going downhill? 
when I had my 20/22 hybrid engine i rarely got over 6500 rpm  but it did drop a valve at 7200 rpm once  :down:  once was enough :rivers:

it depends on what cam you have what carb and what exhaust.  if all are large enough it will spin up that high but it would have to be a VERY long and steep hill for it to over rev the engine.   it just doesnt happen when you have dual cases and use them.
AR-TTORA founder 22R bored.060,LCE stage II race cam http://pure-gas.org/    32/36weber, :driving: Marlin 1200 NON ceramic clutch, L52SHD+dualcase #2919, cable-locker, Yukon 5.29 gears, 35's, Allpro ebrake, front springs, and high steer, F150rears    RIP Nitro 9-29-07 :(  I sure miss him :down: MarlinCrawlerInc IS NOT affiliated with TrailGear in any way

79coyotefrg

I would strongly suggest (assuming you havent already got the w56 transmission) to use the L52HD  Marlin sells.   you get the strength of the w56 in the length of the stock transmission giving you much better driveline angles in the rear.
I just about never use 5th gear with my 35's the engine runs cooler when running at 3600 rpm in 4th than 3100 in 5th (approx same speed+/- ) and I dont have to downshift at every bump in the highway.
AR-TTORA founder 22R bored.060,LCE stage II race cam http://pure-gas.org/    32/36weber, :driving: Marlin 1200 NON ceramic clutch, L52SHD+dualcase #2919, cable-locker, Yukon 5.29 gears, 35's, Allpro ebrake, front springs, and high steer, F150rears    RIP Nitro 9-29-07 :(  I sure miss him :down: MarlinCrawlerInc IS NOT affiliated with TrailGear in any way

czny

Quote from: 79coyotefrg on February 15, 2012, 01:52:29 PM
when I had my 20/22 hybrid engine i rarely got over 6500 rpm  but it did drop a valve at 7200 rpm once  :down:  once was enough :rivers:

it depends on what cam you have what carb and what exhaust.  if all are large enough it will spin up that high but it would have to be a VERY long and steep hill for it to over rev the engine.   it just doesnt happen when you have dual cases and use them.
The engine build: Weber 32/36 w/adapter on a '77 intake(no EGR) port matched to cyl head, O/S int & ex valves(Engnbldr), Comp Cams 87-127-6(224* @.050" x .435" L), '83 cookie-cutter pistons in '83 tall block, LC Eng dual row chain & cam sprocket, Pacesetter headers 2" exhaust thru 2" cat & 2.25" series 40 Flowmaster. 

I'll just have to learn my shift points by ear then ;).

79coyotefrg

Quote from: czny on February 15, 2012, 02:23:40 PM
The engine build: Weber 32/36 w/adapter on a '77 intake(no EGR) port matched to cyl head, O/S int & ex valves(Engnbldr), Comp Cams 87-127-6(224* @.050" x .435" L), '83 cookie-cutter pistons in '83 tall block, LC Eng dual row chain & cam sprocket, Pacesetter headers 2" exhaust thru 2" cat & 2.25" series 40 Flowmaster. 

I'll just have to learn my shift points by ear then ;).
I'm scared to ask what you paid for your dual timing chain kit through them :yikes:   a 20R chain kit from engnbldr would have been fine,  heck even one from autozone would be adequate.
the cam is a little mild but should do a nice job.   how long are those primary tubes on that pacesetter???
AR-TTORA founder 22R bored.060,LCE stage II race cam http://pure-gas.org/    32/36weber, :driving: Marlin 1200 NON ceramic clutch, L52SHD+dualcase #2919, cable-locker, Yukon 5.29 gears, 35's, Allpro ebrake, front springs, and high steer, F150rears    RIP Nitro 9-29-07 :(  I sure miss him :down: MarlinCrawlerInc IS NOT affiliated with TrailGear in any way

czny

Quote from: 79coyotefrg on February 15, 2012, 01:58:59 PM
I would strongly suggest (assuming you havent already got the w56 transmission) to use the L52HD  Marlin sells.   you get the strength of the w56 in the length of the stock transmission giving you much better driveline angles in the rear.
I just about never use 5th gear with my 35's the engine runs cooler when running at 3600 rpm in 4th than 3100 in 5th (approx same speed+/- ) and I dont have to downshift at every bump in the highway.

The W56 is already mated to the dual transfer case. I've got both the original & the donor vehicle front & rear drive-shafts. The local drive-shaft specialist has been building shafts since the early '70s & I can trust his work without a doubt. I haven't set the height of the skid plate in stone yet but would prefer a flat-er belly.
After reading more here, I think I'll opt for the 35s, 5.29 GR, TrueTrac up front & Grizzly rear diffs. First things first, getting the spring work done. :)



 

czny

Quote from: 79coyotefrg on February 15, 2012, 02:34:44 PM
I'm scared to ask what you paid for your dual timing chain kit through them :yikes:   a 20R chain kit from engnbldr would have been fine,  heck even one from autozone would be adequate.
the cam is a little mild but should do a nice job.   how long are those primary tubes on that pacesetter???

My mistake. Only the dual cam sprocket from LC eng....the chain from Mizumi, a wholesale house.
The headers tubes are 1.5 dia. x 32 L, 2" collector.

79coyotefrg

Quote from: czny on February 15, 2012, 02:54:28 PM
My mistake. Only the dual cam sprocket from LC eng....the chain from Mizumi, a wholesale house.
The headers tubes are 1.5 dia. x 32 L, 2" collector.
really??  wow  where did you get them??

I have wanted to get an adjustable timing gear but Ive never done it.  I had too much fun without one
AR-TTORA founder 22R bored.060,LCE stage II race cam http://pure-gas.org/    32/36weber, :driving: Marlin 1200 NON ceramic clutch, L52SHD+dualcase #2919, cable-locker, Yukon 5.29 gears, 35's, Allpro ebrake, front springs, and high steer, F150rears    RIP Nitro 9-29-07 :(  I sure miss him :down: MarlinCrawlerInc IS NOT affiliated with TrailGear in any way

yotacrawler1


czny

Summit racing equip. Pacesetter 70-1072 headers. 'bout $162 now. & they're 2.5" dia. collector.

The cyl head had been cut .015", so the adj sprocket was to degree-in the cam correctly. I had bought a Engnbldr cam but the darn lobes weren't to specs at all. Lobe centers, duration & lift were all out of whack - & found all that too late to return it :(