Oil pressure?

Started by jackson58, February 11, 2012, 09:26:35 PM

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jackson58

I have a fresh rebuilt 22re that doesn't read that it has any oil pressure. I have switched out the sending unit with no change as far as the gauge goes. What are the things that could cause this?
Dirt is for wheelin not for wearin you filthy hippie!

toyotanner

start chasing wires ha. could be the gauge itself try a different cluster

2manytoys

I would stick a mechanical gauge on it to see if it has pressure. Did you have a working pressure gauge before rebuild? If you did, I'd be a little worried.
88 Pickup SAS'd, 3.4 V6, R151F Hybrid, Dual Ultimate, Triple sticks, 35's, 5.29's, HP front, V6 rear, Aussies, 63" Chevs, Anti Wrap Bar, Warn 8274 on Home Built Bumper

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jackson58

yeah it had worked previously so it was kinda weird that gauge would just quit.
Dirt is for wheelin not for wearin you filthy hippie!

toyotanner

yeah if the oil pressure just quit working and hasnt worked since after a rebuild thats no good :/... did you rebuild it? have someone rebuild it? or bought it rebuilt?

toyotanner

do you know if the oil pump was primed? wouldnt hurt to pull it and grease everything with petroleum jelly or some sort of grease to prime the oil pump

jackson58

The oil pump was primed  :thumbs: I dont feel to comfident not showing oil pressure on gauge. While running everything sounds fine but with my luck it will scatter as soon as I take it out.
Dirt is for wheelin not for wearin you filthy hippie!

toyotanner

hmmm..... oil galleys are plugged?

jackson58

Block was hot tanked. Rods, crank, pistons are all brand new.  :dunno:
Dirt is for wheelin not for wearin you filthy hippie!

2manytoys

Only way to be sure is stick a gauge on it at the block and see what ya got. I'd be afraid to even idle it very long unless I knew for sure I had pressure.

The pump could be fine. You won't build pressure if a plug got left out and all the oil is just going back into the pan instead of to the crank and the rest of the engine.

I'm trying to remember all the galley plugs. You have the small ones on the outside by your sender, the ones on the ends of the block by the bell housing and timing cover, and I think there are a couple just below the pan rail.

You would have obvious leaks if you left out the external ones but, not if you left out an internal one. The oil would just flow back to pan.

I'd be a nervous wreck until I found out for sure. It would suck to waste a fresh rebuild.
88 Pickup SAS'd, 3.4 V6, R151F Hybrid, Dual Ultimate, Triple sticks, 35's, 5.29's, HP front, V6 rear, Aussies, 63" Chevs, Anti Wrap Bar, Warn 8274 on Home Built Bumper

4WU linked 86 Xtra Cab build in progress

2manytoys

Just thought of something when I was responding to another post.

Are you sure the oil pressure sender/sensor is screwed into the correct port? It's pretty close to the knock sensor port which is a dead hole. You wouldn't read any pressure there for sure. I THINK? it is the same thread size.
88 Pickup SAS'd, 3.4 V6, R151F Hybrid, Dual Ultimate, Triple sticks, 35's, 5.29's, HP front, V6 rear, Aussies, 63" Chevs, Anti Wrap Bar, Warn 8274 on Home Built Bumper

4WU linked 86 Xtra Cab build in progress

jackson58

The sensor is screwed into the port just below the oil filter & all the plugs are in  ???
Dirt is for wheelin not for wearin you filthy hippie!

BUDDERS

I know there are different oil pressure senders depending on which gauge cluster you have, but if it screws in and the connector fits, I'l check out the gauge.
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79coyotefrg

pull the valve cover off and spin it over with the starter if you dont see oil spraying on the cam STOP SPINNING
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jackson58

 :thumbs: will do thanks for the info.
Dirt is for wheelin not for wearin you filthy hippie!