Third member swap

Started by megaphoneman, January 05, 2012, 12:02:31 PM

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megaphoneman

please dont flame me...i am not new to the scene, its been years since i have replaced a toyota 3rd member.
If i remember correctly its fairly simple.
can i just get a refresh on how to do it? i have a buddy that needs it replaced asap.

is there  abuild thread or a how to thread some where that i can easly be pointed to?
I dont have time to search through here as well as the search option doesnt work right now...

any help would be great.

megaphoneman

btw its a 4cyl 92 single cab 2wd..

Nimyad

Unbolt axle shafts and e brake and pull the shafts out, unbolt the driveline. Then unbolt the 3rd and pull it out. Then reverse to put it back in, make sure you use a gasket or sealant.

johnny_boy02

Its pretty easy.

Jack up truck and secure.
Unbolt driveline
Remove wheels/ tires
Remove brake drums (you dont have to but I prefer to)
Unhook brake lines
Remove the 4 bolts holding the axle/brake assembly and slide out (this has to be done on both sides)
Remove the 10 or so bolts holding in the 3rd and remove.

While its all apart change the inner axle seals.

Put it all back together and bleed the brakes.

yotaneck13

make sure to pul the axel shafts the entire way out dont let them just hang out of the tube or youll ruin youe axel seals
RNR FABRICATION ON THE EAST COAST!!! [email protected] (814)-516-5176 like us on facebook www.facebook.com/rnrfab
R.I.P Derek James Black 1995-2010 I miss you BUD! :sad2: 81 4wd wheelable 20r ifs rear welded on 33's goes amazing
"THE GENERAL" My build-on the backburner http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=63519.0

Quote from: 86bobbedtoy on May 10, 2011, 08:42:59 PM
I make more money that you, my wife is hotter than yours, my thingy is bigger than yours

BoG-ToY

if they are factory seals, they wont get ruined, as they have a metal ring that protects the seal.... I have dealer seals in mine just to make it easy to change a diff...

I jack it up just far enough to get the tires off the ground, like 1/4 inch, pull em out a foot and set the tires on the ground.  (this of course after unbolting the driveshaft, four axle bolts each side ebrake cables, and brake lines)
Sand, what fun, drop pressure to 12psi, stock tires are still digging, can't afford to get stuck, 8psi, still not working. Find a place to GET OUT, air up, un-lock hubs,  WAIT whats this, hubs are UN-LOCKED already. 2wd, 8psi, stock tires, Oregon sand dunes.

BLACKDOG

Quote from: BoG-ToY on January 05, 2012, 06:34:23 PM
if they are factory seals, they wont get ruined, as they have a metal ring that protects the seal.... I have dealer seals in mine just to make it easy to change a diff...

I jack it up just far enough to get the tires off the ground, like 1/4 inch, pull em out a foot and set the tires on the ground.  (this of course after unbolting the driveshaft, four axle bolts each side ebrake cables, and brake lines)


This.
:usa: Its better to die on your feet than live on your knees :usa:

"Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction. We didn't pass it to our children in the bloodstream. It must be fought for, protected, and handed on for them to do the same, or one day we will spend our sunset years telling our children and our children's children what it was once like in the United States where men were free. "

"I don't believe in a government that protects us from ourselves."
              -Ronald Reagan

Don't take life too seriously, it isn't permanent

BoG-ToY

removing tires is too much work? I was actually going to add rubber lines on the outers to be able to just do ebrake, four+four nuts and then the 10 nuts
Sand, what fun, drop pressure to 12psi, stock tires are still digging, can't afford to get stuck, 8psi, still not working. Find a place to GET OUT, air up, un-lock hubs,  WAIT whats this, hubs are UN-LOCKED already. 2wd, 8psi, stock tires, Oregon sand dunes.

BLACKDOG

I'm agreeing with you.  The method you described also prevents a lot of potential injury, as well as creating an additional safety factor if for some reason the truck falls.
:usa: Its better to die on your feet than live on your knees :usa:

"Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction. We didn't pass it to our children in the bloodstream. It must be fought for, protected, and handed on for them to do the same, or one day we will spend our sunset years telling our children and our children's children what it was once like in the United States where men were free. "

"I don't believe in a government that protects us from ourselves."
              -Ronald Reagan

Don't take life too seriously, it isn't permanent

megaphoneman

thanks guys...just making sure i remembered correctly! i did one back in the day probably about 10 years ago..
Got a buddy of mine that wants to swap one out at my shop. just making sure i didnt run into anything crazy..

yotaneck13

i dissagree even on factory seals ive seen em ruined by letting the axels hang
RNR FABRICATION ON THE EAST COAST!!! [email protected] (814)-516-5176 like us on facebook www.facebook.com/rnrfab
R.I.P Derek James Black 1995-2010 I miss you BUD! :sad2: 81 4wd wheelable 20r ifs rear welded on 33's goes amazing
"THE GENERAL" My build-on the backburner http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=63519.0

Quote from: 86bobbedtoy on May 10, 2011, 08:42:59 PM
I make more money that you, my wife is hotter than yours, my thingy is bigger than yours

BoG-ToY

if you let the full weight of the axle hang, yes I think so, but I think the tire actually holding up the weight of everything leaves minimal weight on a factory style seal, Ive even done it on aftermarket seals making most of the weight on the tire, not on the seal
Sand, what fun, drop pressure to 12psi, stock tires are still digging, can't afford to get stuck, 8psi, still not working. Find a place to GET OUT, air up, un-lock hubs,  WAIT whats this, hubs are UN-LOCKED already. 2wd, 8psi, stock tires, Oregon sand dunes.