Author Topic: Toyota ref (Read 3164 times)

Jokeass-Wheelers · « **on:** Jun 22, 2011, 02:43:06 PM »

Anyone near paradise ca know where to ref a Toyota that has a different motor in it please share info so I can street legal mine

IronClad · « **Reply #1 on:** Jun 22, 2011, 02:51:35 PM »

butte college

4RunnerChevy · « **Reply #2 on:** Jun 22, 2011, 03:20:53 PM »

Just call (800) 622-7733, you gotta set up an appointment anyway. They will set you up with an appointment, and tell you where to go. Remember the operator knows nothing about vehicles, so just say "motor change".

Fiercefirstgen559 · « **Reply #3 on:** Jun 22, 2011, 03:24:27 PM »

X2. I just made my appointment. It was painless.

Jokeass-Wheelers · « **Reply #4 on:** Jun 22, 2011, 05:57:30 PM »

Sweet what do they look for? Just like welding? Wiring? How it runs? Blinkers tail lights stuff like that?

dntsdad · « **Reply #5 on:** Jun 23, 2011, 07:09:10 AM »

They will pull the part number from the ECM (so have that ready if your ECM is buried in the dash), check what vehicle it came from and then proceed to go over the vehicle with a fine tooth comb to make sure that your vehicle has EVERY piece of emissions in place and functional that came with the vehicle the ECM is from.

You can help yourself by making sure that there are no trouble codes stored, and that all the monitors have run. Any of these that are off, will be an automatic fail.

They will not check brake lights and things like that. Just emission related items.

what exactly are you swapping from and what is your vehicle?

jimbo74 · « **Reply #6 on:** Jun 23, 2011, 07:26:29 AM »

if your vehicle is salvaged, you will also need a brake and light inspection, that is a whole different category of testing though, pretty simple, they just spec the components you have, and see if it is within toyota factory specs. as for the lights, they jsut turn them on, and see if they are all there, and working

BigMike · « **Reply #7 on:** Jun 23, 2011, 08:22:28 AM »

Quote from: dntsdad on Jun 23, 2011, 07:09:10 AM

what exactly are you swapping from and what is your vehicle?

X2

Some places also require an emergency brake (which my MR2 doesn't have) and may fail you if you don't have one.

I've passed 5 engine swaps at the ref, and from my experience I recommend you get everything to look as if it was installed that way by Toyota. Take extra time to use wiring loom, heat shrink every solder connection, make sure there are no emission hoses or wires hanging too close to your exhaust system, make sure the air box is securely mounted, etc...

One extremely annoying law is that everything between the first electrical device (usually a temp sensor or AFM) and your throttle body must be completely stock, and the same with everything between your exhaust manifold and the last electrical device in your exhaust (usually your second O2 sensor, if applicable) must be completely stock.

When I did my 3RZ, I couldn't possibly fit it's original T100 air box under the hood. So I did a really nice job installing a cone filter to my AFM, and securely mounted it using nice aluminum brackets. It looked really clean and nice but they failed me because the air temp sensor mounts to T100 air box, so therefore I was required to use the huge T100 air box (I just took the truck in without a hood and had the huge box sticking out of the engine compartment and it passed because hoods are not required

).

Additionally, the 3RZ runs the catalytic converter on the passenger's side of the vehicle, but my Hilux has the cat on the driver's side. So I routed my exhaust to position the cat in the stock Hilux location, which for some crazy reason they accepted for me, but they did not accept this for Marlin's and Bevin's 3RZ conversion because the cat is before the 2nd O2 sensor and therefore it must be in the original T100/Tacoma location.

I firmly believe the smog program is a huge joke in California. It is just for law makers to get off on their power trips and raise money through more hidden taxes. Why we have to jump through so many hoops to replace a polluting carbureted engine with a modern EFI engine just blows my freak'n mind!! If this was TRULY a SMOG program, then they should just do a SMOG INSPECTION.

BigMike

dntsdad · « **Reply #8 on:** Jun 23, 2011, 08:37:51 AM »

Agree 100% with Mike. Its a joke that I took my POS inefficient, gas guzzling, dirty 92 3.0 motor out and installed a much more efficient 3.4 motor and was failed because the exhaust was ran down the wrong side of the vehicle. Why that matters to the final smog total I have no idea.

Saying that, I do not think that the smog ref is going to look for one second at any of your lights, or other safety equipment on your vehicle. They didnt at mine. My E brake doesnt work and one of my taillights were out all FIVE time I went to a ref and they never said anything. I think in fact, one time I took it the front end was still stripped off including the headlights, front signals, etc. Maybe they are all different........not sure. Pretty sure Mike and I would have went to the same guy over by the fire academy out past 99 and 41.

I does have to be registered and insured though but most importantly is that NOTHING can be altered from its original form. When I had to move my Cat to the passenger side, it is a TIGHT fit because of the transfer case. I asked if I could cut the welds, rotate the CAT about 25 degrees, and reweld. Keep in mind this did NOT move the Cat forwards or backwards one inch. I was told this would be considered modifying the CAT and therefore would render the CAT useless for a legal swap. I had to squeeze it in.

Make sure your gas cap is good and provides a tight seal, I also failed for that but they let me run to NAPA and grab a new one. Then I passed.

The guy in Fresno is cool but thorough, but he follows the rules EXACTLY.......doesn't make them so I can't blame him.

Have all the paperwork, numbers, etc. ready for both the donor and your vehicle and hand it to the guy. You only get a 45 minute block whether they finish or not. I had to go back three times during my first round because they spent so much time taking out the ECM, looking up VIN numbers etc. You may save a trip by having everything ready in advance.

Sparkplug · « **Reply #9 on:** Jun 23, 2011, 08:52:48 AM »

Here in nor cal, anderson fairgrounds. They popped my hood, quick look at my vac lines, turned engine on to make sure cel came on and went off, and I was on my way. I have heard tell that smog and ref is much harder down your way, thank god im up here. Mine was a 84 excab swapped to a 22re

Jokeass-Wheelers · « **Reply #10 on:** Jun 23, 2011, 01:10:03 PM »

I took my 1982 Toyota with a 22r and blew the motor and swapped it with a 1990 22re it runs fine I do believe I have all the smog requirements I have cat with flowmaster exhaust all my gauges work except water temp and since I switched to 22re the gas tank is alot bigger so I just took it and mounted it to the back of the cab made mounts and welded it to the frame and bolted the tank to the mounts uh the only other problem is I hit a tree on the driver side so the mass air flow box does not fit and I just ran it to the passenger side am I going to have to figure out a way to put it back on the driver side... Also due to the front end damage and the mass air flow box being on the passenger side will it be a problem if my battery is located in the bed?

- so mass airflow box on passenger side instead of driver side. Problem?
-battery mounted in bed. Problem ?
-gas tank mounted in different spot. Problem?
-fuel pump on a toggle switch. Problem?
-flowmaster exhaust. Problem?

IronClad · « **Reply #11 on:** Jun 23, 2011, 01:29:09 PM »

battery should not be a problem and the gas tank should not be a problem provided that everything is there and in working order. The pump could be a problem im not sure but imagine not. flowmaster exhaust no as long as you have stock cat and stock manifold or carb approved header

Jokeass-Wheelers · « **Reply #12 on:** Jun 23, 2011, 01:42:06 PM »

And I have stock exhaustanifold and stock cat

Fiercefirstgen559 · « **Reply #13 on:** Jun 23, 2011, 01:54:38 PM »

I was told that in most cases the exhaust and fuel lines should not be located in the same side. The hilux does not have proper heat shielding over the fuel lines to put up with the high temp of the cat and piping. It's prob just a safety issue. IMO

Jokeass-Wheelers · « **Reply #14 on:** Jun 23, 2011, 02:07:38 PM »

My exhaust goes down the driver side and the gas lines are on passenger side

4RunnerChevy · « **Reply #15 on:** Jun 23, 2011, 05:11:36 PM »

You guys are reading to much into it. The rules have long since changed. The ref will be looking at All-Data pictures and verifying all components exist. He will plug the OBD reader and make sure its all working. Done! Get it done in a non smog prone area, cause rules change if the area is polluted (Downtown any city, LA, SJ, Sac). Then he will issue you a sticker, THEN you go get it smogged. It was much different 4 years ago, but its easier now. If your worried go to the one in San Jose, at whats that college name ? Big Black guy is used to conversions.

Jokeass-Wheelers · « **Reply #16 on:** Jun 23, 2011, 05:16:50 PM »

Oh... Also this happens
Ok so I start my Toyota and it's idling just fine then I see if my gauge cluster lights work and I turn the knob that adjusts them and my truck starts to idle funny... It would idle from 800 to 1000 then to 800 to 1000 then I would try to give it gas and it would like almost die then I turned the knob the other way and it started to idle just fine and I am pretty sure this is not supposed to happen

I really don't want more wiring problems

yota_krawler · « **Reply #17 on:** Jun 23, 2011, 05:17:27 PM »

butte college still does it? i heard they dont...

4RunnerChevy · « **Reply #18 on:** Jun 23, 2011, 05:19:04 PM »

Quote from: Jokeass on Jun 23, 2011, 05:16:50 PM

Oh... Also this happens
Ok so I start my Toyota and it's idling just fine then I see if my gauge cluster lights work and I turn the knob that adjusts them and my truck starts to idle funny... It would idle from 800 to 1000 then to 800 to 1000 then I would try to give it gas and it would like almost die then I turned the knob the other way and it started to idle just fine and I am pretty sure this is not supposed to happen

I really don't want more wiring problems

You have a backfeed wiring problem, check all wiring. Should not be a problem at the ref.

Jokeass-Wheelers · « **Reply #19 on:** Jun 23, 2011, 05:34:37 PM »

Ok because that kinda tripped me out when my trted to idle funny because of a light thing

4RunnerChevy · « **Reply #20 on:** Jun 23, 2011, 05:37:30 PM »

Something in your wiring has 2 different feeds, check it out. I had the same problem, I was able to adjust my idle with the dimmer ( it really didn't adjust idle, it just adjusted the tach )

Jokeass-Wheelers · « **Reply #21 on:** Jun 23, 2011, 05:40:23 PM »

Sweet also when I get it refd do I have to keep getting it refd? Or how does that work?

4RunnerChevy · « **Reply #22 on:** Jun 23, 2011, 05:46:29 PM »

Once you get a sticker, its just like any normal car. Just make sure the sticker is placed on a good surface, away from contaminates. Once this is done, peace will be restored in the world !

Jokeass-Wheelers · « **Reply #23 on:** Jun 23, 2011, 06:05:25 PM »

Sweet haha I can't wait

dntsdad · « **Reply #24 on:** Jun 23, 2011, 09:54:29 PM »

My smog ref ran it one the dyno like a regular smog check and that WAS my smog check for DMV. It was transferred electronically just like normal.

Cool think was I only had to pay the $8 fee for the ref inspection and that INCLUDED my smog check so I didnt get tagged with going and paying $50 or whatever to an inspection shop.

This was not the case the first time I went through but was the second. He said the Ca changed the rules and the ref does the sniffer test now.

Jokeass-Wheelers · « **Reply #25 on:** Jun 24, 2011, 07:28:22 AM »

Sweet thanks everyone

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