Topic: Tie rod/drag link hitting springs- Problem?

[GRM]

I am running a roger brown-style 83 toyota rear springs up front, with an anti wrap leaf, and a marlin highsteer. When the pass side is drooped, my drag link and tie rod hit the passenger side spring. Will this cause problems as far as worn tie rod ends, or something else? I would just pull the anti wrap leaf, but I dont think 6mm is going to be enough clearence to clear the tie rod and drag link. My buddy has sky stage 6 arms and the same spring pack (but without the anti-wrap leaf) and has the same problem.

Any advice? Its been a year since i did the highsteer, and the only reason why I notice it now is because I have pressurized shocks.

[STRAPON]

Move your bump stops to keep it from hitting.  Is the steering box in the stock location or was it a retrofit?  I put one on my '85 but I installed it as high as I could.  I only have a 3 inch lift and have never hit the springs. 

Bill

[GRM [OP]]

The drag link is hitting, not the pitman arm. I have bumpstops to help with up travel, its the down travel that its hitting. The tie rod and drag link hit the passenger side spring neer full droop. I bet the tie rod hits the drivers side spring too but I just havent noticed it yet.

I was talking to my buddy, and his does the same thing with sky arms.

[MidgetMike]

How often are you going to be at full droop? Not very so you should't have any probs with wear, but if you don't like it run a small spaer made of plate steel bolted into the spring pack as thick as it needs to be to eliminate it 1/4 or 3/8" should cover it, that's what I did but I used a relocating plate to get my axle an extra inch forward at the same time.

[GRM [OP]]

How often are you going to be at full droop? Not very so you should't have any probs with wear, but if you don't like it run a small spaer made of plate steel bolted into the spring pack as thick as it needs to be to eliminate it 1/4 or 3/8" should cover it, that's what I did but I used a relocating plate to get my axle an extra inch forward at the same time.

Well, I will be at full droop probabally a dozen or so times a trip. Plus when I jump it. I think it will be enough that I wll have a problem.

And I am not understanding this spring plate. If it bolt it between the axle and springs, it will lower the axle, not raise it, so that would make the problem worse.

Sounds like your thinking I have a horizontal clearence problem, not vertical.

[MidgetMike]

How often are you going to be at full droop? Not very so you should't have any probs with wear, but if you don't like it run a small spaer made of plate steel bolted into the spring pack as thick as it needs to be to eliminate it 1/4 or 3/8" should cover it, that's what I did but I used a relocating plate to get my axle an extra inch forward at the same time.

Well, I will be at full droop probabally a dozen or so times a trip. Plus when I jump it. I think it will be enough that I wll have a problem.

And I am not understanding this spring plate. If it bolt it between the axle and springs, it will lower the axle, not raise it, so that would make the problem worse.

Sounds like your thinking I have a horizontal clearence problem, not vertical.

Good piont I had my head in my ass  the spring plate is still a good way to get your axle forward another inch, maybe some shims for adjusting your pinion angle, if you piont it down a few degrees that might give you the clearance. Some ideas good luck

[GRM [OP]]

Ya, my springs are already 2" forward, and I only have about .25" between the tie rod and drag link at full compression.

As for shims... I have the stock front hanger, and 6.5" eye to eye shackles. I am afraid if I put any shims in there I will bind my driveshaft.

Only thing I can think of at this point is to build a 1" drop hanger, swap out my 6.5" shackles for my 4.5" ones, and if it still hits, put in some 4° shims to put me back at the same caster I have now.