Rims. 15 x 8 's or 15 x 10's.

Started by Motormouth13, March 09, 2011, 09:18:11 PM

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Motormouth13

 Is there any advantage to 15 x 10 over 15 x 8 or vise versa?

minicrawlin

depending on your tire size/tire width the smaller or wider rim will work better to seat the bead and keep it from popping. i run 36/12.50 R15 on 15x8 rims and have yet to blow a bead, sometimes running at 0 psi (valve stem popped out ha ha). I believe thats the advantage. not sure of any others.
the rocks Rock in South D SON!

79yota4x

Get oN iT anD Stay on iT
79 pickup doved, locked, half cage, boggers
88 ext pickup linked with fox airs up front, 39.5 iroks,Beadlocks, 5.29s, 4.7s, chromolys, 6shooters, hp arb,  spool and 56 chevys in the rear

H8PVMNT

I preffer 15x8s for 12.50 tires.  They stay on the rims really well ar low tire pleasure...
"I would rather wake up in the middle of nowhere than in any city on earth."
– Steve McQueen

"Except for maybe Seattle."  -H8PVMNT

"I plan to hit 300k in this truck"  :)bestgen4runner

"I'm jealous of your shop. It has concrete and doesn't smell like pickles like the old shop  "  300K

<MIKE>

same as mentioned. I run 38.5/14.5/15 TSL's and i use a 10" rim because it helps keep my bead on when i'm @ real low psi. I've gone down to 1-2 psi without losing a bead. Just depends on what size tires you plan to run.
1987 4runner
Dual cases, 2.28-4.7
Dana 60 Rear; Danna 44 front; 5.89's
249:1

Gear Jammin-Dog Chasin-Yota Man

15x8 is a good all around size rim
unless you are runnin wider than 12.50 or want your tires to mount up nice and wide, I like the 15x8
You can get more side wall bulge with the 8" rim and 12.50 tires, depending on if the tire runs wide or whatever
1975 FJ-55 Landcruiser: pretty much stock with 31 x9.50x15 TSL's
1992 Extended Cab Pickup: 22r, weber carb, 51" RUF, F-150 rears, Aussie Front, Welded Rear, etc.
Build: http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=78730

Motormouth13


Gear Jammin-Dog Chasin-Yota Man

Alum are lighter, prettier, don't rust.  But they can break, bend, crack etc.
Steel are tougher by far, but can rust, heavier, etc.
I ran both.  Right now I have steel.  Just depends what you want and how hard you are on stuff....
1975 FJ-55 Landcruiser: pretty much stock with 31 x9.50x15 TSL's
1992 Extended Cab Pickup: 22r, weber carb, 51" RUF, F-150 rears, Aussie Front, Welded Rear, etc.
Build: http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=78730

minicrawlin

cheap alum's will but if you go bad ass like KMC alum beadlock style they'll hold up to anythin and some compared to steel. but unless your gonna do some desert racing i'd rock steel. thats what my toy has and although i've bent em before they hold up great like Hound riggin Toyota's talking about. much cheaper also! What are your applications on this rig?
the rocks Rock in South D SON!

H8PVMNT

Both work well and there are advantages either way.  It all comes down to how much you want to spend...
"I would rather wake up in the middle of nowhere than in any city on earth."
– Steve McQueen

"Except for maybe Seattle."  -H8PVMNT

"I plan to hit 300k in this truck"  :)bestgen4runner

"I'm jealous of your shop. It has concrete and doesn't smell like pickles like the old shop  "  300K

Gear Jammin-Dog Chasin-Yota Man

Personally I have never had a problem with alum wheels holding up, nor have I had a problem with steel wheels, and I'm kinda hard on stuff :yikes:
As long as your not jumping the thing I think you will be fine with either wheel durability wise....
1975 FJ-55 Landcruiser: pretty much stock with 31 x9.50x15 TSL's
1992 Extended Cab Pickup: 22r, weber carb, 51" RUF, F-150 rears, Aussie Front, Welded Rear, etc.
Build: http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=78730

daniresch

15x8 unless your tires are wider than 13.5
alloy wheels because they are lighter and no rust
1988 Blue Std Cab: SAS, Longs, HP/ARB/5.29 Front, ARB/5.29 Rear, Marlin Dual Ultimate w/ 23 Spline MC07XD-R10, Marlin 30 Spline Front & Rear Output Shafts, Dave's Triple shifter, FROR crossmember, Bilstein 12" f+r, RUF w/ 63s, 7in bob, 40x13.5x17 MTR's on Racelines Monster Beadlocks 17x9.5

build: http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=80954.510

Onefryday

I have 31x1O.5x15 should I get 15x8 or do y'all think I'm ok?

Muddytazz

15x8s by far

My old rig I used to run 14.5 wide rims on 15x8s and run 12psi on the street and 1psi  while wheeling and never popped a bead.

The 8" IMO are the best bead holding rims.
Build it right or get off the trail


daniresch

Quote from: Onefryday on June 22, 2011, 05:20:26 PM
I have 31x1O.5x15 should I get 15x8 or do y'all think I'm ok?

15x8 is on the wide side for a 31/10.5/15. will it work? yes.
I would personally run a 15x7.
1988 Blue Std Cab: SAS, Longs, HP/ARB/5.29 Front, ARB/5.29 Rear, Marlin Dual Ultimate w/ 23 Spline MC07XD-R10, Marlin 30 Spline Front & Rear Output Shafts, Dave's Triple shifter, FROR crossmember, Bilstein 12" f+r, RUF w/ 63s, 7in bob, 40x13.5x17 MTR's on Racelines Monster Beadlocks 17x9.5

build: http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=80954.510

Nimyad

A good rule of thumb is run a rim about 4 in shinnied then your tire. And I personally like alum because from what I've found it holds the bead better

daniresch

Quote from: nimyad on June 29, 2011, 02:29:31 PM
And I personally like alum because from what I've found it holds the bead better

That completely depends on the design of the barrel.
1988 Blue Std Cab: SAS, Longs, HP/ARB/5.29 Front, ARB/5.29 Rear, Marlin Dual Ultimate w/ 23 Spline MC07XD-R10, Marlin 30 Spline Front & Rear Output Shafts, Dave's Triple shifter, FROR crossmember, Bilstein 12" f+r, RUF w/ 63s, 7in bob, 40x13.5x17 MTR's on Racelines Monster Beadlocks 17x9.5

build: http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=80954.510

Monster Yota

I run Aluminum 15x10s on 38.5x14.5.15 Sxs at 2-3psi all the time and haven't had a problem so far...
MARLIN 4 PRESIDENT!