Author Topic: Fuel issue (Read 7370 times)

yota8 · « **on:** Feb 20, 2011, 05:37:41 PM »

Not getting any fuel somewhere... Ok soo here it goes, truck will start and run for 15 secs, and depending on the amount of rpms you run it at the sooner it dies. And then once it dies (starving itself out, almost sounds like dieseling down), you can start it right up right after. Its on a 86 4runner 22re, I have changed the fuel filter ( There is pressure to the lines from the fuel pump so i belive its working?) and the line that looks like your overflow? on your fuel rail does not pump out fuel out of that line when you disconect it...

My MAFS box silicon is cut on the top and mostiure could have gotten in there if that makes a differece...
And motor will stay running when you manually feed it fuel

Jagdverband44 · « **Reply #1 on:** Feb 20, 2011, 07:54:21 PM »

Check fuel pressure in the feed line even if there is pressure because it could be very low. It really sounds like your fuel pressure regulator is not allowing enough fuel in and starving your engine. The cold start injector is supplying fuel for 15 seconds and that is why your engine runs for a bit and then dies once fuel is cut. Check your pressure, then test the regulator at the intake and the return. The FSM (which I don't have) should pin out exactly what the fuel pressure should be and how to test the regulators. Good luck

yota8 · « **Reply #2 on:** Feb 20, 2011, 09:11:27 PM »

It should be X amount of gasoline with X amount of time of cranking over the engine, but what line would you say to remove? The mainline going into the fuel rail looks like a pain to pull without pulling the manifold? Would anybody have any input on how to test the regulator? And how much fuel should come out (without doing a pressure test)?

yota8 · « **Reply #3 on:** Feb 20, 2011, 09:37:03 PM »

I was searching other forums (Google) to see if anyone was having similar issues, when I stumbled on this...

"The truck is an 85, and its efi. It will crank and idle just fine, but in neutral with no load it will get up rpm as long as you don't go more than about 25% throttle, it will fall on its face and die like its starving for fuel if anymore throttle is applied. I changed the fuel pump, strainer, and filter. I checked the maf, tps, cap, rotor button, vac leaks, and fuel leaks, all was good. I checked the plugs and got some super weird readings, #1 was super lean (maybe injector failure) #2 was fouled and blackish, dark brown, and #3 and #4 were normal looking. I'm wondering if this issue could be the fuel pressure regulator, or maybe some clogged/ bad injectors. I also checked the coil, it seemed to spark pretty well, idk if the coil was create this kind of issue though. I'm out of ideas other than injectors or fuel pressure regulator"

At the end of the forum he said by replacing the coil ignitor it fixed his fuel issue also? My truck will start and has no problems with spark, but his fuel issue sounds the same...

And for future reference 4runner FSM 22re

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/87-4Runner/toyota_truck_and_4runner_88.pdf

yota8 · « **Reply #4 on:** Feb 20, 2011, 10:28:00 PM »

That was alot of reading...

Finally reached page #216 for testing pressure regulator...

Absolutly no fuel is comming from the hard line to the pressure regulator... sooo? Fuelpump?
But that wouldnt make any sence since it seems as if i have pressure going to the fuel filter and the cold start?

Cheesemaker · « **Reply #5 on:** Feb 21, 2011, 01:07:32 PM »

Since you have a 4runner, then swapping out fuel pumps is cake walk. Since you don't have to drop the tank.

yota8 · « **Reply #6 on:** Feb 21, 2011, 02:41:38 PM »

Quote from: Cheesemaker on Feb 21, 2011, 01:07:32 PM

Since you have a 4runner, then swapping out fuel pumps is cake walk. Since you don't have to drop the tank.

ya but im not a parts changer, i was really hopeing for some input on anything else that i should test? I dont understand how it has pressure in the line but the pump would be bad? Unless its just low pressure... I did do the jumper that looks like a T on the driverside inerfender next to the airfilter to listen to the fuel pump with the ignition on, but I did not hear anything :/

wingnut · « **Reply #7 on:** Feb 21, 2011, 03:01:40 PM »

if you jumped the T connector and still did not hear the pump it's probably the pump. There is a way to test the AFM, but you need an ohm meter. Depending on how many miles you have, a new fuel pressure regulator certainly wouldn't hurt.

twistedtoy92 · « **Reply #8 on:** Feb 21, 2011, 03:22:09 PM »

put a jumper between B+ and FP, then you can eliminate the pump if it stays running.

yota8 · « **Reply #9 on:** Feb 27, 2011, 03:28:13 PM »

Alright so bought a damn fuel pump and that wasnt the problem... pulled the intake off, checked to see if getting fuel at fuel rail, and at injectors, injectors looked alright, and Fuel pump regulator how would you go about testing that? Also i pulled my MAFS cover to richard around and while someone would hold the gas inside at whatever rpms, you were able to move the MAFS to find the sweet spot in which it would continously run, but i cannot figure out how to adjust the MAFS back to stock? And maybe Im just by passing something by holding the MAF open... what would throw off the MAF? AND HOW THE HELL DO I FIX THE SPRING

yota8 · « **Reply #10 on:** Feb 27, 2011, 04:37:21 PM »

Alright I need to explain that alittle better...

In order to make it IDLE just right, you have to adjust the AFM above the airbox to halfway open..
By gradually giving it gas it will idle up just fine, but take a second to drop back down to an idle....
If you just romp on the gas pedal, It sucks in the air but imediatly dies/hessitates.

yota8 · « **Reply #11 on:** Feb 27, 2011, 04:39:44 PM »

Quote from: twistedtoy92 on Feb 21, 2011, 03:22:09 PM

put a jumper between B+ and FP, then you can eliminate the pump if it stays running.

Mines an older style, I dont have that little black box with those conections, all my test wires are on the inerfender on the drivers side

yota8 · « **Reply #12 on:** Feb 27, 2011, 06:59:21 PM »

Another future refference...

22re
AFM - How to test

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/AFM/index.shtml

22re And 3.0
TPS - How to test

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml

Looks like I need to go get a fluke now

yota8 · « **Reply #13 on:** Feb 27, 2011, 07:13:53 PM »

Is it possible if my fuel pressure regulator goes out, it could not allow the fuel to return to the tank and just build pressure up in my fuel rail?

Oddmar · « **Reply #14 on:** Feb 27, 2011, 07:35:14 PM »

Take a 12mm wrench, after trying to start it and it dies, turn the key off. To check if there is enough fuel pressure in the fuel rail, loosen the small banjo fuel fitting on the cold-start injector mid-top side of the upper manifold next to the valve cover.

If gas sprays all over you have enough fuel pressure.

GreenYoterKrawler · « **Reply #15 on:** Feb 28, 2011, 11:07:31 PM »

Quote from: Oddmar on Feb 27, 2011, 07:35:14 PM

Take a 12mm wrench, after trying to start it and it dies, turn the key off. To check if there is enough fuel pressure in the fuel rail, loosen the small banjo fuel fitting on the cold-start injector mid-top side of the upper manifold next to the valve cover.

If gas sprays all over you have enough fuel pressure.

I like these kind of tests, simple yet very effective $Beer Chug\'n$

Cheesemaker · « **Reply #16 on:** Mar 01, 2011, 06:54:18 PM »

Ok, a buddy just had same problems with his truck. Check your TPS!! He could slowly roll up the throttle and it would run, but gun it and it would fall flat and die. A basic volt ohm meter, feeler gauges, and a FSM is your best friend.

With these tools, check the resistance according to the FSM and you should find the problem.

yota8 · « **Reply #17 on:** Mar 01, 2011, 10:34:58 PM »

Early runner FSM

http://www.functionalfab.com/resources/toyota%204runner.pdf

GreenYoterKrawler · « **Reply #18 on:** Mar 02, 2011, 05:07:47 AM »

Those darn tps's

Glad my carbs been rebuilt should be good for another 30 years or so

yota8 · « **Reply #19 on:** Mar 02, 2011, 06:32:01 PM »

Went out and bought me a ohms tester finally, tested my tps from

Mine tested 6.4 all across the board... looks like im looking for a new tps now

Test    Clearance between
lever and stop screw    Between terminals
Resistance /

1.    0.00mm (0.000")     VTA - E2      200-800
2.    0.57mm (0.0224")    IDL - E2      < 2.3K
3.    0.85mm (0.0335")    IDL - E2      Open / Infinite
4.    Wide Open Throttle    VTA - E2      3.3K-10K
5.    n / a      Vcc - E2      3.0K - 7.0K

yota8 · « **Reply #20 on:** Mar 02, 2011, 06:49:35 PM »

And whats this?

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Mines broken

yotaneck13 · « **Reply #21 on:** Mar 02, 2011, 11:10:20 PM »

iac idle air control

yota8 · « **Reply #22 on:** Mar 03, 2011, 12:34:02 PM »

Quote from: yotaneck13 on Mar 02, 2011, 11:10:20 PM

iac idle air control

And how would you go about adjusting that?

yotaneck13 · « **Reply #23 on:** Mar 03, 2011, 01:39:44 PM »

the plastic srew on the top be careful thothey break easily

yota8 · « **Reply #24 on:** Mar 03, 2011, 05:55:58 PM »

Quote from: yotaneck13 on Mar 03, 2011, 01:39:44 PM

the plastic srew on the top be careful thothey break easily

I assume thats how this one got broken from prior owner, is there any true way of adjusting it though instead of just listening to it?

yotaneck13 · « **Reply #25 on:** Mar 03, 2011, 06:44:41 PM »

ive never seen a true reading i always adjusted till it ran right or not

Cheesemaker · « **Reply #26 on:** Mar 03, 2011, 07:47:17 PM »

Mine doesn't have one!!

yotaneck13 · « **Reply #27 on:** Mar 03, 2011, 08:24:54 PM »

neither does my truck now ive heard them called idle up valve or something as well

Wopstar · « **Reply #28 on:** Mar 04, 2011, 07:41:36 AM »

I believe that is an idle up valve for the power steering. As the RPM's get low it has a vacuum switch on the p/s pump that allows a little more pressure to the lines so it is easier the turn the steering wheel.

GreenYoterKrawler · « **Reply #29 on:** Mar 04, 2011, 08:21:14 AM »

Since my new PS pump has the air valve on it, i was thinkin of addin that to my 22r, if its just that idle up valve using manifold vacuum, and the two lines to the pump

i may be able to rig it up. are there any other lines it goes to?

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