Topic: rod bearings

[traveler727]

well everyone the used motor (22re) I put in my 4runner this summer has developed a slight knock or tap. you can hear it when the motor is cold. and really only at idle can't hear it when your driving. I'll try and adjust the valves this weekend. but it may be a rod bearing. Can the rod bearings be changed with the motor in the truck? I can't pull it in the garage right now its full so I don't want to pull the motor out right now. I just can't tell if its a rod knocking it dosn't seem that loud and not as low a pitch knock more like a tap but louder than the normal valve tick.

[FATB0Y]

If it is a rod bearing you should be able to hear it when you rps peak right B 4 you change gears. And yes you can change them with the engine in the truck. BTW I would put mains in it while I was in it and heck it woludn't hurt 2 put a oil pump in it 2. Thats what I need 2 do 2 mine shortly

[reklund5]

High mileage older 22R/RE engines are also known for piston slap- just something else to be aware of 

HTH

Ryan

[FATB0Y]

  Don't know about travler's truck but min only has 125K on it I shouldn't have that alredy

[traveler727 [OP]]

What is piston slap never heard of the term?

[Jase]

I used to have the same thing in an older truck and it lasted until I sold it and havent ever heard from the guy that bought it.  From what I have been told they can run a long time like that (as long as you dont hammer it). If there is a rebuild in your future you might just wait until you can do the whole thing.  03hdfatboy is right I worked for a shade tree mech. that did mains and rod bearings in the car/truck all the time.  Oh yah I have heard that noise could be a wrist pin also 

[bluetoy84]

Sounds like you might have a broken timing chain guide, if it sounds like valve rattle just louder and only at idle.  Rod bearings, wrist pins, or loose valves will all get worse when you rev up the motor. Timing chain will rattle like hell at idle but will quieten down when you rev it up. It could be piston slap but I've not had much experience with this , so I'm not sure what it sounds like. Pull the valve cover and look to see if the right side guide is broken.

[FATB0Y]

. Oh yah I have heard that noise could be a wrist pin also

If it is a wrist pin it will go away under a load.

[reklund5]

Piston slap is basically where the piston skirts are short enough to allow the piston to "wiggle" side to side while traveling up and down in the bore.  The piston has to be slightly smaller than the bore, and the rings take up the slack.  If the piston is short and the wrist pin is roughly centered vertically in the piston, the piston can "wiggle" as it travels.  Toyota actually released a TSB for this concern back in 1988, and redesigned the pistons to reduce the problem.  All engines manufactured after 1988 have the new design pistons in them, and it shouldn't be of any concern.  Also, any pistons purchased from Toyota since then should be the new design. 

I have the TSB on my toolbox at work, as I'm rebuilding a spare 22RE right now.  I'll try to remember to bring it home and scan it if anyone wants to see it...

Ryan

[brainlessfool]

. Oh yah I have heard that noise could be a wrist pin also

If it is a wrist pin it will go away under a load.

Not so!  when the intake valve opens and the piston "sees" vacum it pulles the piston up, at this time if the wrist pin has play it will move and when it starts the comp. strock it comes smaching back down agian. point being a wrist pin will make noise under ANY load.

[FATB0Y]

  News to me

[traveler727 [OP]]

I'm going to do the rod bearings with the motor in the truck and throw in a new oil pump. Can the main bearings be done. It seems like you would have to be able to remove the crank to do it and that would mean dropping the transmission.

[brainlessfool]

you can do the mains with the crank in. just hav eto "roll" them out then back in.


Also I should state that I may have been lees than totaly complet with my explanation of the wrist pin thing.
it needs to be said (cuze if I don't some one will post it up and say "your wrong!")  that this does not hold ture for a 2 cycle eng.
  there, I feel better now 

[reklund5]

To do the mains, just loosen all the caps.  Remove the cap of the main you are replacing and use a small pocket screwdriver to push on one end of the old main bearing.  It should roll around the crank and fall out.  Stick the new bearing in there the same way and squirt some assembly lube in there.  Put the other half of the bearing on the cap and reinstall the cap loosely with some assembly lube.  Repeat for all the other mains and then torque to spec. 

Good Luck!
Ryan