0 Members and 6 Guests are viewing this topic.
Never broke a knuckle but I do carry two in the equipment box on my trailer. I have broken steering studs, trunnion bearings and Birfields. These were all fixed on the trail where I broke. If you break a birfield or trunnion bearings, fix ASAP because it can and has locked up steering. If you blow a Birfield and do not have a spare (Just because you are running Longfields does not mean they will not break) pull it out, clean it out, shove a rag or paper towel in the hole, this will slow the diff lube from leaking out. Run in 2-wheel drive as much as possible (that is when a twin-stick comes in hand, low gears 2-wheel drive.I came out of 4-dice in 1-wheel drive once, I blew a rear axle and a bit later I blew both sides of a Birfield eliminator kit, front R&P and a hub. with a little strapping and winching I made it out.
Thanks for the info. Well here is the whole story.....I was installing FROR ARP knuckle studs. First side when great, second side not so much. Original studs were in REALLY tight and I used a 'bolt out' in the impact gun to pull the studs. Came right out no prob. I think two of them must have galled or screwed up the knuckle threads because when installing the studs the threads were really rough. All the studs were started by hand and followed up by double nutting. When the two wouldnt do well with hand threading I pulled them back out and thread chased them. Even still after all that I installed them and those two wouldn't tighten up. I haven't stripped them yet but they are not tightening up and I think they are pulling out. I am trying to figure out what to do next. Damn the tq on those arp studs are soooo high (130#).Run em till I break em (driver side)Stock replacement6 shooters6 shooters with trunnion elimsThis makes me sad
i vote replacement knuckles with ARP studs
Here are broken studs which then caused the knuckle to start to crack. All the bearings were destroyed so we wheeled it out without them. All courtesy of Jud.
Good info. I was trying to figure out if I just remove/replace or to upgrade to something better while I'm at it. So lets have a vote:1. Remove/Replace2. Get 6 Shooters with arms and have my one good knuckle for a spare (this would allow me to upgrade to the trunnion elim later too)For the record I wouldn't be buying from TG if there was something comparable on the market. Also you cant beat that guarantee.
There is nobody BUT TG that has replacement knuckles. That is one of those things that you either trust used 30 year old questionable knuckles, or you buy from TG. You could try getting them from Toyota, but you could buy an entire used rig for what they might want for them.
If you live around the Roseville, CA area I will give you a couple of stock knuckles. Come pick them up. You do not have to tighten the studs into the knuckles to 130 ft lbs, just the nuts when you torque the steering arms.
Hey OOPS where are you getting the 130 ft lbs from,,, FSM??? Just curious...As for breaking a toy knuckle I never have, but I always torque my arms before/after and even sometimes during the wheeling trip.... Doing this I have had very good luck keeping my steering studs and trunion bearings alive as well...
Sorry for that, I meant 100-110 with the ARP studs, at least that is what Brian recommends. I do not know what TG recommends for their studsI did not make myself clear, some people think that you have to torque the stud into the knuckle the same as you torque the nut on the stud. You do not, I put red lock-tite on them, double nut them and get them tight. Then install the arms and torque to spec. 71 ft lb is the torque for the stock studs,
Started by MyToyNotHiz General 4WD Discussion
Started by SWAMPER « 1 2 3 4 5 » Chit Chat Camp
Started by Mike D Engine
Started by dune_it86 Toyota Pickup/4Runner Tech 1979-95
Started by BigBri Toyota Land Cruiser Tech