Author Topic: carb clean help  (Read 1909 times)

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87hillbillyoter

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carb clean help
« on: Jul 18, 2010, 09:39:57 PM »
hey guys- still learning engine stuff so bear with me. my carb has been pretty slow on my 22r and it is really dirty. i need some help/advice on the best way  to go about this. does anyone have any good step by step instructions? i got the air filter off, air filter housing as well. i see 4? nuts that look like they hold the carb down.  well two of these came off fine, but the other two, im just spinning the stud. i used liquid wrench, but still doesnt seem to do anything. so any help on this would be awesome. thanks in advance guys.
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1987 SAS'ed toyota 4x4 pickup 22re swap
build up- http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=75111.0
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OOPS

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Re: carb clean help
« Reply #1 on: Jul 19, 2010, 09:16:32 AM »
I do not have a 22r but looking at the FSM it looks like two of the mounting points are nuts and bolts. They are the outside ones. Are you putting a wrench on the bottom as you undo the nut on top?
David & Theresa Fritzsche, 1990 Ex-Cab with a few mods!!!!!!!!! Roseville, CA Sobriety =Serenity

87hillbillyoter [OP]

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Re: carb clean help
« Reply #2 on: Jul 19, 2010, 11:16:57 AM »
ok thanks man. ya i missed those haha. ok so i got it off, but the electrical is still connected and im no electrician so i was wondering how to get those out? other than that i have everything else disconnected
:usa:
1987 SAS'ed toyota 4x4 pickup 22re swap
build up- http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=75111.0
:usa:

gtoyonrocks

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Re: carb clean help
« Reply #3 on: Jul 19, 2010, 12:40:55 PM »
All you have to do is disconnect the electrical connectors. Those carbs can be a bit of a pain to work on. I would but a rebuild kit for you carb, go through each jet and then chace them out with air.
1985 toy, Hybrid 20r/22r on propane, 30splines, custom built leaf packs, welded front and rear diffs, dual ultimate crawler, full hydro, full exo, flat bed, 37' mtrs

crazykooter

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Re: carb clean help
« Reply #4 on: Jul 19, 2010, 03:41:53 PM »
Just a little FYI if your going to remove the carb 22R and REs have a plastic spacer called an isolator.  On the top and bottom of that is the gaskets.  The isolator normally sticks to the base of the carb if its factory and never been removed.  If it is stuck just be careful not mess up the gasket since no auto part stores carry them unless you get a full rebuild kit. Even then the original gaskets are glued to the isolator so its a pain to get them off.  Imo if your carb is having issues then identify what wrong then if needed remove the carb.  More then likely spraying some carb cleaner thru it while its running will get a lot of surface grim inside.  The biggest issue is the float bowl.  There is a bolt the goes into the float bowl which a 12mm.  If you remove that bolt it will drain the gas out. Then you can use carb cleaner with a stray to spray inside there to flush out the crud.  Then just get some seafoam and put it into fuel tank. This will help clean the main jet as well as the float needle.  forgot to mention that 12mm bolt in float bowl is for access to the main jet.  Meaning you can use a large flat head screw driver and remove the main jet and clean it if you really want to go that far.  This all can be done without pulling the carb and messing with the gaskets.  I will say tho 99% of the time the main jet is very tight and is a total pain to get it to break lose.  Like I said if its just dirty then just use some chemicals to clean it.  If its acting up then post here what it is doing.  and ya those 2 bolts that slide thru the manifold and carb are a pain to reach. 
Another thing I almost forgot is you can get the factory oem isolator with gaskets from daves.  http://davezoffroadperformance.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=8

Here is a pic of the oem gasket he sells. These things are HARD to find since toyota doesnt make them anymore and it seems daves found a bunch of them. 

 
 
 
 
 

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