Topic: 2005 Tacoma to get FJ CRuiser T-Case

[AWSUMDC]

I'm putting an Fj Cruiser transfer case into The Beast which is 2005 SASED Tacoma with Marlin Crawler 4.70:1 Crawler. Follow along with the link below to see why we're doing this.

http://www.rocksolidtoys.com/forum/showthread.php?t=28&page=6

[AWSUMDC [OP]]

Well, the Much improved Marlin Crawler 4.70:1 Taco Box came in today. Check out the link below to see what else the spring Santa brought.

http://www.rocksolidtoys.com/forum/showpost.php?p=3901&postcount=88

To view the entire build, click link below

http://www.rocksolidtoys.com/forum/showthread.php?t=28

[AWSUMDC [OP]]

It's In!

http://rocksolidtoys.com/forum/showthread.php?p=4033#post4033

[AWSUMDC [OP]]

OK, so Ive got it all finished now and it works like a dream.  You simply move the lever back for 4wd and then you move it over and forward for 4wd lo. Toyota should have done this from the biggening with these new Tacoma's.  Can't wait for the round up now.

After I cut a hole in the floor, I ad to make a new shifter handle for it because the Toyota units are just too big for the space I want to use.

I got a piece of 1/2" bar stock and threaded one ed of it so I cold put my Marlin knob on it.




Then I welded it to the base.  Yeah, that kink in it is needed to clear some stuff under the console.


Here it is for the final test fit.



Then here it is all finished now.  Toyota, are you watching this?




Then I moved my ARB switches to the ceiling console so that I could keep my left hand on the steering wheel while driving instead of trying to look around the steering wheel to find the switches.

Moved them from here.


To here.  This is the ceiling console in a 2005 Tacoma.  I placed the switches in the sunglass holder that I never used.  Perfect fit ad now I can access the switches without having to look around the steering wheel or taking my left hand off of it.

[crozhawk]

man, ...I your truck

[AWSUMDC [OP]]

OK, some of you waned to see what I was going to put in the three spots where I had my ARB switches. I was looking at Fire931's thread on his build up and saw some switches he had that were very similar to the ARB switches so I asked him where he got them and he was kind enough to tell me. They are just like the ARB switches and will illuminate with the dash lights and will illuminate another light when he switch is is on. They were only around $ 12.00 each and were at my door step in two days from ordering them.

Here is the place they went into.


Here they are in their new home. I have two rock light sets and one for the rear amber lights. I got the rear amber light in red so that if they are on I can be easily warned because they are bright and I don't want to blind someone on the freeway. The others I got in blue just to match the ARB switches.



Here they are when the dash light is on.


The ARB switches during the day and then when the dash lights are on.



I will be changing over all of my after market switches to these switches.


OK. Since I switched to the FJ case, my 4hi and 4lo lights on my dash just stayed on because there was no more actuator back there. I needed to know when I was in 4wd because I have a short throw shift now and sometimes you just think your in two wheel drive when your really in 4wd.

With the help of Kevin ( Fire931 ) ( I say help, heck, he did most of the figuring. I just answered his questions) I did however figure out which wires I needed from the sensors...Yeah! we got it all figured out.

I no longer need a 4wd cpu since I now have an manual t case and a SAS. But I wanted my indicator lights to work on the dash so this is what we did.

We found the 4wd CPU tucked up behind the glove box and up a bit and disconnected to two plugs from the CPU.
First you have to take out the glove box. Pretty simple.


Then there is a black panel that is held on with 1 10mm bolt and two push in clips. Remove that panel.



Once you have that panel removed lay on the floor on your back and look up and you will see a black box with two plugs going to it. This is your CPU. Took me forever to find this and I ended up calling Kevin for hide and seek instructions.


Pull the two plugs out of it but leave the fuse in at the fuse box. You need it for the lights.


Next I needed to find the two wires that came from the 4hi sensor and the 4lo sensor at the transfer case. Pretty simple as well. The red w/ blue stripe wire is the 4hi sensor and the yellow with black stripe is the 4lo wire.

4hi wire at the transfer case.


4 lo wire at the transfer case.


Then I needed to find which wires went to the lights on the dash. Again, pretty simple. The red wire goes to the 4hi light and the brown with white stripe goes to the 4lo light.

At the CPU you I just spliced the red w/ blue stripe wire from the 4hi sensor to the red wire going to the 4hi light, and then spliced the yellow w/ black stripe wire from the 4lo sensor to the brown w/ white stripe wire going to the 4lo light. Left the plugs unplugged from the CPU and zip tied them up and out of the way.



Then I plugged the sensors back up in the appropriate places, the 4lo senors is the forward sensor on the drivers side of the t case and the 4hi sensor is the sensor on the passenger side of the t case.

Then it was time to test it.
Put the truck in neutral and no lights at all from the 4wd system.


Then put the FJ Case into 4wd hi and lookie!!! One light!


Then put the FJ case into 4lo and again the 4lo light comes on. No alrams, no blinking lights and no more electronic shifting t case. I'm a happy man.! No hack job or extra switches to have to remember to turn on when I go into 4wheel drive. Everything is controlled by the wiring system like it came from the factory that way.


Now this setup is for the 2nd gen Tacomas with a solid axle swap and an FJ Cruiser transfer case. We do have a solution for those that have a lefty and IFS and for those that want the FJ case with IFS as well for the second gen Taco's

We are currently working on the 4th gen 4runners for the lefty and FJ case with and without SAS and next after that will be the FJ Cruiser.

[AWSUMDC [OP]]

Another First

Twin sticks for an FJ Cruiser T-Case in an '05 + Tacoma

You all know that we just got the FJ Cruiser T case in the Beast and now it's time to improve upon that improvement.

First off I have to say that if you own a 2005 + Tacoma and you wheel it at all, your going to love this T Case. No more
waiting for that stupid little light to stop blinking and that beep to stop. You just move the lever into 4wd and it goes, then you move it into 4 lo and it goes. Gotta love it.

Now, how do you make this a better case? You add another lever to it. Thats right.

The Beast not only is the first 05+ Tacoma to have a SAS, and a Marlin Crawler box, and an FJ CRuiser T Case. But it's also the first to have twin sticks in the FJ Cruiser T case.

Dan and I drove up to Marlins house on Sunday and spent a very good evening with his wonderful wife Christine and himself and then spent all of Monday in the shop making the Beast just that much better.

The day started with Rocky, the cheif get it done guy at Marlin Crawler when it comes to transfer case's and crawlers. We put the truck up on the lift and away it went.



Then we started to take it out. Rocky is one hell-of-a-guy and he knows his way around a transfer case.



After we got the t case out it was time to take it apart. Since we are just turning it into a twin stick case we wont take it compeletly apart.





Then we took the case apart but only the twelve 12mm bolts that hold the two halves together. Before you do that though you need to make sure you have the t case in 2wd. if you don't your going to lose these three little keys that are a royal pain to get back in.



Back out the two position sensors before you pull the case apart.





Once apart, if you didn't leave the case in 2wd you'll need to find the little keys.
See the three little keys in the middle of the picture? You don't want to see these on the table when you take the t case apart so make sure you have it in 2wd when you take it apart.







Since we are only going to work with the hi lo shift rail we only needed to take out the spring and ball from the drivers side of the t case behind the 6mm hex bolt at the back of the transfer case. Through this you can also remove the interlock pin that really looks like a pill as richard Foster calls it.



Next you need to remove the roll pin from the hi lo shift fork.



Once the shift rail is removed, there is a small appendage that needs to be removed from the shift rail foot so that the two shift rails can be moved independent of each other.







When you separate the two halves you don't want to see this. The t case in 4wd.



You want it in 2wd.


Put the hi lo shift rail back in the case and install the roll pin and your almost done.





Once back together this is what it should look like in your case.



Now I have more sticks than a Chinese restaurant. LOL





I'll clean up the interior and make it look like it came from the factory with all of those levers.

Then last but not least. Now I can get the computer to show when its in lo but not 4wd. Gotta love it.



Stay tuned because we're not done yet. Another first is right around the corner.

[AWSUMDC [OP]]

Update!

Ever since I had the twin sticks in my truck I've wanted to change the shifter boots to something that was more me. Something that I designed and created instead of something I bought from a store. I've always hated the Honda go fast crap I had in there with the red stitching on black fabric. It was just ugly. So I had a new crawler box shifter boot made and found a place that would make the twin stick shifter boots for me to my specs, and then I used something that Jason did to his FJ when Dan and I installed a crawler box in it for him and this is what I came up with.

Two shifter boots that now look the same and good and a way to finally secure them to the console. I think it came out rather nice.

[Northboundtundra]

OK, some of you waned to see what I was going to put in the three spots where I had my ARB switches. I was looking at Fire931's thread on his build up and saw some switches he had that were very similar to the ARB switches so I asked him where he got them and he was kind enough to tell me. They are just like the ARB switches and will illuminate with the dash lights and will illuminate another light when he switch is is on. They were only around $ 12.00 each and were at my door step in two days from ordering them.

Here is the place they went into.


Here they are in their new home. I have two rock light sets and one for the rear amber lights. I got the rear amber light in red so that if they are on I can be easily warned because they are bright and I don't want to blind someone on the freeway. The others I got in blue just to match the ARB switches.



Here they are when the dash light is on.


The ARB switches during the day and then when the dash lights are on.



I will be changing over all of my after market switches to these switches.


OK. Since I switched to the FJ case, my 4hi and 4lo lights on my dash just stayed on because there was no more actuator back there. I needed to know when I was in 4wd because I have a short throw shift now and sometimes you just think your in two wheel drive when your really in 4wd.

With the help of Kevin ( Fire931 ) ( I say help, heck, he did most of the figuring. I just answered his questions) I did however figure out which wires I needed from the sensors...Yeah! we got it all figured out.

I no longer need a 4wd cpu since I now have an manual t case and a SAS. But I wanted my indicator lights to work on the dash so this is what we did.

We found the 4wd CPU tucked up behind the glove box and up a bit and disconnected to two plugs from the CPU.
First you have to take out the glove box. Pretty simple.


Then there is a black panel that is held on with 1 10mm bolt and two push in clips. Remove that panel.



Once you have that panel removed lay on the floor on your back and look up and you will see a black box with two plugs going to it. This is your CPU. Took me forever to find this and I ended up calling Kevin for hide and seek instructions.


Pull the two plugs out of it but leave the fuse in at the fuse box. You need it for the lights.


Next I needed to find the two wires that came from the 4hi sensor and the 4lo sensor at the transfer case. Pretty simple as well. The red w/ blue stripe wire is the 4hi sensor and the yellow with black stripe is the 4lo wire.

4hi wire at the transfer case.


4 lo wire at the transfer case.


Then I needed to find which wires went to the lights on the dash. Again, pretty simple. The red wire goes to the 4hi light and the brown with white stripe goes to the 4lo light.

At the CPU you I just spliced the red w/ blue stripe wire from the 4hi sensor to the red wire going to the 4hi light, and then spliced the yellow w/ black stripe wire from the 4lo sensor to the brown w/ white stripe wire going to the 4lo light. Left the plugs unplugged from the CPU and zip tied them up and out of the way.



Then I plugged the sensors back up in the appropriate places, the 4lo senors is the forward sensor on the drivers side of the t case and the 4hi sensor is the sensor on the passenger side of the t case.

Then it was time to test it.
Put the truck in neutral and no lights at all from the 4wd system.


Then put the FJ Case into 4wd hi and lookie!!! One light!


Then put the FJ case into 4lo and again the 4lo light comes on. No alrams, no blinking lights and no more electronic shifting t case. I'm a happy man.! No hack job or extra switches to have to remember to turn on when I go into 4wheel drive. Everything is controlled by the wiring system like it came from the factory that way.


Now this setup is for the 2nd gen Tacomas with a solid axle swap and an FJ Cruiser transfer case. We do have a solution for those that have a lefty and IFS and for those that want the FJ case with IFS as well for the second gen Taco's

We are currently working on the 4th gen 4runners for the lefty and FJ case with and without SAS and next after that will be the FJ Cruiser.

Do you happen to know if the A.D.D. can be activated just by using a relay? I swapped out my push button controlled t-case too but I want to keep the rest of the factory 4wd system.