Author Topic: Best 22R mods (Read 50888 times)

Plekto · « **Reply #30 on:** Nov 27, 2009, 12:33:37 AM »

And that's the rub. Anything over a simple exhaust mod will cost you a lot of money. If you want real power, stuff a modern V6 in it. 190+ HP in bone stock form and the "donor" vehicle can be parted out for half the cost of the engine, if not more. Look for a totaled Rav-4 or similar with the rear end gone but the entire front half intact.

8D3TOY · « **Reply #31 on:** Nov 27, 2009, 07:05:25 AM »

I think he thinking like me, engine swaps are nice but not really doable right now. Get a taller air filter and a longer stud for the lid if you dont already have an open element on your Weber. Header, exhaust, electric fan, then when you can get a cam. Thats about it without tearing into the motor bigtime.

kneedownnate · « **Reply #32 on:** Nov 27, 2009, 07:25:25 PM »

I thought the rav4 had a rather anemic little sideways v6?

Plekto · « **Reply #33 on:** Nov 28, 2009, 08:09:11 PM »

That would work, though I typed in the wrong motor I think. I was following this old thread and the one I was looking at was the 5VZ.(hard to tell as the spacing is messed up a bit in that thread.

http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=48380.30

Spending $3-4K on a fully modded 22RE motor or similar seems silly when you can just stuff a V6 in it and be done. If you wanted something more sane and a direct bolt-up, just get a 2TR-FE. The VVTi is a massive improvement and they're becoming somewhat affordable used. I'd rather have this engine than a 3RZ, having looked over all of the data over the last 48 hours or so.

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #34 on:** Nov 28, 2009, 09:37:13 PM »

Quote from: Plekto on Nov 28, 2009, 08:09:11 PM

That would work, though I typed in the wrong motor I think. I was following this old thread and the one I was looking at was the 5VZ.(hard to tell as the spacing is messed up a bit in that thread.

http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=48380.30

Spending $3-4K on a fully modded 22RE motor or similar seems silly when you can just stuff a V6 in it and be done. If you wanted something more sane and a direct bolt-up, just get a 2TR-FE. The VVTi is a massive improvement and they're becoming somewhat affordable used. I'd rather have this engine than a 3RZ, having looked over all of the data over the last 48 hours or so.

oh for God's sake let it GO, it sounds to me like WAY too many people in this thread cant find the horsepower in thier 22R/RE because they cant listen to what works and/or arent capable enough to tune the engine to see what works and what doesnt its so much easier for everybody to say "well why not throw in a 454 bigblock with a blower...

the OP wanted to know "best mods for a 22R" not what motor would you put in your toyota,

i'm sure theres some idiot somewhere thats plugged a 3406 CAT into a toyota if you look in the "look what bubba did" area of u-tube

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #35 on:** Nov 28, 2009, 09:39:43 PM »

and who said $3000-4000 anywhere?? this thread was about mods to the 22R not "what catalogue can i spend the most money at"

ive got less than $1200 in my motor and thats including rebuild parts and machine work

Plekto · « **Reply #36 on:** Nov 28, 2009, 10:58:39 PM »

Yeah, but we're not all as handy with tools as you are, Glen.

***quote original post***
I have a stock 22R with a 32/36 Weber and headers. What fairly inexpensive mods have you found to make the most difference off-road?
*****

That means, well, inexpensive. And short of what he's done, nothing will end up costing just a few hundred dollars, even. If he wants bigger gains from here, it's a new motor or an entire rebuild with custom parts. My answer to him, then, would be to concentrate on gears and lock it. Make more with what you have at this point.

85_4RNR · « **Reply #37 on:** Nov 29, 2009, 10:47:15 AM »

I declare this thread a Hijack!

bleakhorizon · « **Reply #38 on:** Nov 30, 2009, 09:30:11 PM »

back to the original post, do the fuel vent tube mod, flip the weber 180, remove the high speed circuit in the carb.... under 10 bucks and you can idle on your back looking up all day... and yes a fuel pressure regulator (lil more expensive but it DOES help)

kneedownnate · « **Reply #39 on:** Dec 01, 2009, 12:15:40 AM »

I'd much rather have my truck try to die going uphill than downhill, can't see rotating it 180 being a viable option.

birfection · « **Reply #40 on:** Dec 01, 2009, 04:17:50 PM »

I did the Weber Carb mod just recently (How to make a weber climb a hill). What are you talking about turning the carb 180?! High speed circuit?

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #41 on:** Dec 01, 2009, 04:45:18 PM »

Quote from: bleakhorizon on Nov 30, 2009, 09:30:11 PM

back to the original post, do the fuel vent tube mod, flip the weber 180, remove the high speed circuit in the carb.... under 10 bucks and you can idle on your back looking up all day... and yes a fuel pressure regulator (lil more expensive but it DOES help)

thats fine and dandy for a trail rig but is gonna suck butt when you hit the interstate

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #42 on:** Dec 01, 2009, 04:49:55 PM »

Quote from: birfection on Dec 01, 2009, 04:17:50 PM

I did the Weber Carb mod just recently (How to make a weber climb a hill). What are you talking about turning the carb 180?! High speed circuit?

never mind, what you've already done is best if you drive it on the road at all

birfection · « **Reply #43 on:** Dec 01, 2009, 07:37:55 PM »

My engine runs great now that i did the weber mod. It used to die when i had to back down a hill, but now it just idles right up when i'm going downhill. I followed the instructions exactly, and replaced all the gaskets while i was in there.

bleakhorizon · « **Reply #44 on:** Dec 02, 2009, 11:16:06 PM »

lol i havent ever removed the highspeed circuit in my weber.... hell i dont even know how, but my friend has one that the previous owner eliminated it and seems to be the same as mine of course his isnt a DD either.... when i turned my weber around it seemed to take angles better (more degree just different direction?) i did the fuel regulator at the same time so maybe thats what it is IDK...

as for the flooding out, well if you like to back down what you cant see, with brakes that work 70% in the front, and lock up the steering axle, that you just throttled up trying to keep the carb from flooding. . . yea go ahead, i did it many times, never was fun....and hell, i got compression to keep my engine going when its pointed downhill. Not to mention, i like to go up.. not go down <-----that was not a gay joke but it sounded like one!

yoda87 · « **Reply #45 on:** Feb 19, 2010, 03:32:59 PM »

about the rotating the weber 180 could you possibly post some pictures? it'd be interesting at least to see what it looks like cuz i can't wrap my head around how to do the accelerator linkage

SloCrawler · « **Reply #46 on:** Feb 20, 2010, 06:59:31 PM »

I got a low end cam from LC Engineering and my 83 22r now smokes my buddys 91 22re. "English"

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #47 on:** Feb 22, 2010, 08:55:42 PM »

Quote from: Chrstphrtptts on Feb 20, 2010, 06:59:31 PM

I got sum low end came from LC and my 83 now smokes my buddys 91

can you tell us again using plain english

REG535 · « **Reply #48 on:** Feb 22, 2010, 09:34:02 PM »

http://www.toysport.com/technical%20information/22r_tech_notes.htm
Theres where I get my info from. I dont know much other than that. Besides what others have posted. On mine I cleaned up the efi unit black stuff in there, took out the catalyic convertor, and just ran a glasspack, got the tuning right, along with the distrubter right, and changed the spark plugs to high quailty ones.
Obivolusly I havent done what others have, and it seems like great power to me.
Also check out wildyoats.com for more mods.

bleakhorizon · « **Reply #49 on:** Feb 22, 2010, 10:57:55 PM »

Quote from: Chrstphrtptts on Feb 20, 2010, 06:59:31 PM

I got sum low end came from LC and my 83 now smokes my buddys 91

22re throttle pedal, cable quadrant off early carb, lil bit of custom brackets.....

gota mix of new and old pics

click em to make em bigger

locked 4x4 · « **Reply #50 on:** Feb 23, 2010, 09:30:59 AM »

I was wondering if there is any advantage putting a 20r head on a 22r motor. I need to find a way to get a little more low end torque. My old truck was had a 20r in it and my new one has a 22r in it and they are pretty much the same truck besides the motor. The new one just feels gutless compared to the old one. I have the same size tires but the gears in the 20r were 5.33 and the gears in the 22r are 4.88s. My old truck had so much more power in the low end that at 1500rpm's it would still keep pulling. Now with the 22r if im not over 3000rpm's the motor is bogging. I had dual transfer cases in both trucks and i have simular problems when im on the streets or off. I have to reem the piss out of the 22r to get up the same hills that I putted up in the 20r. I have a header im about to put on the 22r. Any other ideas?

SloCrawler · « **Reply #51 on:** Feb 23, 2010, 11:30:05 AM »

x2, Got a 20r head with 22r valves, been waiting to build a motor.

yoda87 · « **Reply #52 on:** Feb 23, 2010, 05:28:55 PM »

Quote from: bleakhorizon on Feb 22, 2010, 10:57:55 PM

22re throttle pedal, cable quadrant off early carb, lil bit of custom brackets.....

gota mix of new and old pics

click em to make em bigger

ok that makes sense now, if i did turn it tho i saw someone earlier saying that i would end up choking out going down hill instead of up. is it serious enough to worry about?

bleakhorizon · « **Reply #53 on:** Feb 23, 2010, 05:53:42 PM »

yea it does flood out going down hill now, but with compression its easier to keep running. Mostly around here its uphill driving for me anyway.... and the way i see it, if it does die, at least im looking at where im going to crash with no power brakes and power steering lol... rather than descending rapidly in reverse

...

Rocksnail · « **Reply #54 on:** Feb 23, 2010, 08:56:27 PM »

Running a weber , dui distributor, and soon to get a header and maybe a cam. cant wait to see how it will all work out.

yoda87 · « **Reply #55 on:** Feb 24, 2010, 03:53:15 PM »

yeah living up in the mountain areas kinda blows when it feels like my trucks either stalling out or just choking

locked 4x4 · « **Reply #56 on:** Feb 28, 2010, 10:57:02 PM »

Quote from: locked 4x4 on Feb 23, 2010, 09:30:59 AM

I was wondering if there is any advantage putting a 20r head on a 22r motor. I need to find a way to get a little more low end torque. My old truck was had a 20r in it and my new one has a 22r in it and they are pretty much the same truck besides the motor. The new one just feels gutless compared to the old one. I have the same size tires but the gears in the 20r were 5.33 and the gears in the 22r are 4.88s. My old truck had so much more power in the low end that at 1500rpm's it would still keep pulling. Now with the 22r if im not over 3000rpm's the motor is bogging. I had dual transfer cases in both trucks and i have simular problems when im on the streets or off. I have to reem the piss out of the 22r to get up the same hills that I putted up in the 20r. I have a header im about to put on the 22r. Any other ideas?

No one had any ideas???

kneedownnate · « **Reply #57 on:** Mar 01, 2010, 01:20:55 AM »

Yes, many people have and many have asked the same question. That's why I didn't say anything before, since it's been extensively covered and so many people get sensetive when they're told they should search. Not saying you would get sensetive, just didn't want to poke the bear.

So answering in order; Yes, but you'll gain top end, not low end. I'd think you have bigger issues you need to address though if you have no power below 3,000 rpm.

So... search

And don't make the mistake most people seem to make in only searching through the search feature and looking at thread titles. Spend time going through all the threads you come across involving poor running or under powered engines, look for common themes and similar issues and take what you can from that.

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #58 on:** Mar 01, 2010, 07:52:53 AM »

Quote from: locked 4x4 on Feb 23, 2010, 09:30:59 AM

I was wondering if there is any advantage putting a 20r head on a 22r motor. I need to find a way to get a little more low end torque. My old truck was had a 20r in it and my new one has a 22r in it and they are pretty much the same truck besides the motor. The new one just feels gutless compared to the old one. I have the same size tires but the gears in the 20r were 5.33 and the gears in the 22r are 4.88s. My old truck had so much more power in the low end that at 1500rpm's it would still keep pulling. Now with the 22r if im not over 3000rpm's the motor is bogging. I had dual transfer cases in both trucks and i have simular problems when im on the streets or off. I have to reem the piss out of the 22r to get up the same hills that I putted up in the 20r. I have a header im about to put on the 22r. Any other ideas?

there is a big advantage to having the 20/22 setup but the reason you have so much difference between the 2 trucks is the differential gearing.
its kindal like saying "wow my 20R truck pulled alot harder in 3rd gear than this 22R does in 4th gear"

the r series engines have plenty of torque, what they all lack in mid to top end horse power. putting the 20R head on the 22R block bumps the hp but dont confuse a gearing issue with engine torque or hp.

yoda87 · « **Reply #59 on:** Mar 01, 2010, 07:26:03 PM »

if you have a carburetor that can do it you can also water inject it, that will bring up compression a lot. unfortunately it costs you the life time of the engine which will be a lot shorter. same thing with advancing your timing, it gives you more power and better gas mileage but if you do it too far its harder to start your engine and burning too much before tdc you can end up damaging the head and/or the pistons

birfection [OP]

birfection [OP]

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