toyota solid axle vs. 10 bolt

Started by superyota, August 04, 2009, 02:11:09 PM

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which is stronger stock for stock, toyota axle or 10 bolt

toyota solid axle
chevy 10 bolt

superyota

which is stronger stock for stock, toyota solid front axle with stock birfs, or a stock 10 bolt.  that only reason i'm even  considering a 10 bolt is because i already have one and it would save me some cash.  its going in a 90 runner with 35's that is going to be a daily driver/weekend wheeler.
ABD Motorsports
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Slolyfe

I dont know which is stronger but every time Ive broken a toyota axle part on the trail someone around had a spare. Just my 2 cents
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superyota

Quote from: slolyfe on August 04, 2009, 02:18:03 PM
I dont know which is stronger but every time Ive broken a toyota axle part on the trail someone around had a spare. Just my 2 cents

i know what you mean, i've experienced it first hand
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bigarms23

toyota is 27spline stock and the 10bolt is 30spline stock and about 4inches more width per side. well i have run both and seem to break both about the same amount of times. but my 10bolt front has upgraded inners and stubs i think its pretty much a width question
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All_Set

Quote from: bigarms23 on August 04, 2009, 08:13:06 PM
toyota is 27spline stock and the 10bolt is 30spline stock and about 4inches more width per side. well i have run both and seem to break both about the same amount of times. but my 10bolt front has upgraded inners and stubs i think its pretty much a width question

I believe the 10bolt 30 spline was only available for 2 years from the factory..    The majority of 10 bolts are smaller splined.    Sorry I don't have further details.


Do you have any idea how much it'd be just to mount that 10bolt under a toy?  Might be simpler to just get some upgraded birfs.


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blackdiamond

The wider 10 bolt is sure to cost you some coin with installation and figuring out how to make the rear match.  Once you go wider you're stuck with ugly flaps and fender flares if you want to drive on the street.  Pay Bobby Long a visit and don't look back, you'll be able to predict the final build cost better.
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BLACKDOG

Install all depends on your level of skill and willingness to fab, and what you've got laying around.  Even if you bought all the parts, the fullwidth kit from sky is $239, you can use a dl flange from a ford 8.8 (junkyard special) and you're good to go.  Gears are in the $150 range, and all the steering is the same as the D44. 

If you go homebrew, you can build your own hanger, get the dl flange as mentioned, and make your own shackles. 


If you already had a toyota SA under the truck, I wouldn't bother with the 10 bolt, but if your doing a SAS, it might be a good cheap way to go. 

One of the advantages of the toy vs. 10 bolt is the birfield bell.  I've had explained better before, but when turning, in a toyota, you've got full contact through that joint, because of the way the joint is set up.  With the 10 bolt, you've got U joints there, so you've really only got 4 points of contact, which puts a lot of stress on both the yoke ears, and the U joint itself.
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WHITE_TRASH

Do the 10 bolt if you plan on a 60 later.  If you don't forsee the rig getting big and stupid then put a yota in there and be done.
Full hydro, 186:1 with an auto and 44's what could go wrong??

TIMS89CRAWLER

I say the yota axle.... no reason for a 60 when there are longs....
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WHITE_TRASH

Quote from: TIMS89CRAWLER on August 05, 2009, 02:56:35 PM
I say the yota axle.... no reason for a 60 when there are longs....



Other than every single piece of the 60 is stronger than the yota and the dana has a sharper turning radius due to the added width....  But you're right, Bobby fixed all the shortcomings of the yota axle. :hahaha:
Full hydro, 186:1 with an auto and 44's what could go wrong??

superyota

good info.  thanks for the input.  not planning on going 60, but not sure just yet when i want to do a straight axle.  i guess the first trail i hit with ifs will determine when the sas gets done.
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WHITE_TRASH

You'll be happy with a yota axle if that's your attitude and the intended usage is DD/lighter wheeling.   :)
Full hydro, 186:1 with an auto and 44's what could go wrong??

toyotanner

Quote from: superyota on August 05, 2009, 10:40:50 PM
good info.  thanks for the input.  not planning on going 60, but not sure just yet when i want to do a straight axle.  i guess the first trail i hit with ifs will determine when the sas gets done.

you'll be doing a sas in no time :haha:

H8PVMNT

I don't know man... every time I've seen a 10 bolt on a decent trail, and I mean EVERY time, I've seen them break.  Maybe it's because they're on heavy full sized pickups, or maybe they're just junk, I don't know... but the Toyota axle is really really buildable and kind of belongs under a Toyota unless you're going to step up to a 60.
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bigarms23

ive taken my 10bolt front axle on the 4runner to hollister,rubicon,fordyce without any issue but im only running 36inch tires and a limited slip
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Pat

the only thing stronger is the housing. the axle shafts are a tiny bit weaker in a 10 bolt. mostly the stubs though.  the 10bolt axles shafts are 28 spline at the diff and 19 spline at the hub..  toyota is 30 splines at the diff, 27 where it goes into the birf and 30 spline at the hub. the birf stub axle is alot bigger than a Dana or 10 bolt stub shaft.  Japan steel is generally better but the toyota housing has the crappy sheet metal housing.. the ring and pinion are very close to the same in strength..  If you are going to a american axle that is half ton at least get a Dana 44..  30 spline axles at the diff..  And the parts are gennerally more available for the dana 44 like bearings for diff , lockers and gears

go over to pirate and read the 100's of thread with this exact same question.. 

           
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Dirty88

I vote for the Toyota, easy to work on, lots of parts   :disturbed:

Rockcrawlintoy

Quote from: Dirty88 on August 07, 2009, 09:46:44 PM
I vote for the Toyota, easy to work on, lots of parts   :disturbed:

you must not have worked on a 44 lol i went 44 for the width and it was significantly stronger at the time since longs were not on the market. when both are built is a toss up on what one is stronger
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bigarms23

if you already  have an axle to use hang it you can always change or upgrade down the road
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89sastoyo

It all depends on how you and the skinny pedal bond. I think there probably the same axle shaft wise but diff height, and width for the money i'd go toyota. I would only run a fullsize axle if i were going all out because your gonna need around 3 inch taller tires to accomedate for the size of the ring and pinion. Not to mention you will have to have matching gears. Also drive line adaptor. Even if you already have the axle i think it would cheaper to buy 27 splines and throw a toy axle under it. For a first time solid axle it will be a lot easier cheaper and i think you will be happier with it in the end.
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