Ok guys, Need help with my carb.

[1985ToyotaForLife]

I have a 1985 22R Carb'd, just rebuilt the motor, was running great, timing might not be dead on, but it was running great, wonderful power and what not. Here's the problem, just the other day, took it to get it inspected, sat in there running a good 10 minutes, go to pull out of the place and little downard driveway, motor knocks off. Won't start, smell fuel from the exhaust, flooded to hell and back. Couple hours later get her started and get it home. My dad and I try and see what the problem is. So i start the truck with him watching the carb window....gas fills up up and right pass the window and fills up all the way, can't see the fuel line cause it must be slam full. Carb was rebuilt years ago. What is the problem here? It has been running really rich lately and now this, I think it just built up and now its telling me to stop.

What should I do about this? Rebuild? what exactly is the matter. What to do....cheaply.

Thanks, D.

[79coyotefrg]

  sounds like the needle valve is stuck open,  you can rebuild it fairly cheap, but those dang things dont rebuild well,   i struggled with mine for years finally bought a 32/36 weber and HOLY SMOKES      LCEngineering.com  i think they are on sale too

[Shamb]

i've heard it go both ways, some say Weber is the best thing since sliced break. Others say a stock Toyota carb can be just as good if not better in some aspects.

From experiance i can honestly tell you NEVER and i repeat N E V E R buy a carburator from TOMCO. They rebuild them and resale but im on my 3rd one and still having problems so im probably gonna take this POS back and try to get ahold of a stock toyota carb.  I would go weber (because they're easier to find)  but mines gotta be California Smog legal   

[79coyotefrg]

i've heard it go both ways, some say Weber is the best thing since sliced break. Others say a stock Toyota carb can be just as good if not better in some aspects.

From experiance i can honestly tell you NEVER and i repeat N E V E R buy a carburator from TOMCO. They rebuild them and resale but im on my 3rd one and still having problems so im probably gonna take this POS back and try to get ahold of a stock toyota carb.  I would go weber (because they're easier to find)  but mines gotta be California Smog legal   

call LCEngineering they have smogable webers,  ask  brainlessfool 

[Shamb]

you know how much they run by chance??

[79coyotefrg]

you know how much they run by chance??

last i checked they were about $340  but that inclued a k&n filter and adapter plate 

[FVF_SAS]

I'd rebuild it if you want cheap, I did mine for like 20 bucks year and a half ago...  

I'm leaning towards glen's answer stuck or damaged float needle valve, although I don't recall what type of float is in the aisin carb, It could be damaged.  

Running rich lately you say?  Q: At idle or During conditions above Idle?  

[79coyotefrg]

I'd rebuild it if you want cheap, I did mine for like 20 bucks year and a half ago...  

I'm leaning towards glen's answer stuck or damaged float needle valve, although I don't recall what type of float is in the aisin carb, It could be damaged.  

Running rich lately you say?  Q: At idle or During conditions above Idle?  

they are about 1inch hi,1/2 inch wide, and 2 inches long with a little tab for the pivot pin and needle to sit on

[FVF_SAS]

Hey Glen I'm sorry I should have been a little more specific my curiosity lies more in the actual floats' construction, Phenolic, hollow brass, sheet metal.....

[79coyotefrg]

Hey Glen I'm sorry I should have been a little more specific my curiosity lies more in the actual floats' construction, Phenolic, hollow brass, sheet metal.....

hollow brass i think

[FVF_SAS]

well if it's hollow brass and he had it off and had the fuel drained out of the bowl....if it got tossed or shook or whatever there may be a hole in the float causing it not to float..thus keeping the needle off its seat, rebuilding it is the first step, if the problem persists check out the float

[1985ToyotaForLife]

Thanks for all the fast responses guys.

So the gist I get is, stuck needle valve plus possible float damage.

I'm in the process of getting my hands on a stock carb from an 85 2wd 22R truck. Is this the same carb as my 4wd truck? The guy i'm talking to replaced his with a new one, but that wasn't the problem, so I can pick up this carb for real cheap. I just hope there isn't anything different. What do you guys think?

I don't want to get a weber because A: Money's real tight, B: The 7MGTE is just waiting for the money to go in.

I just need to get the truck running right.

Thanks for the input.

D.

[hawaii500_1999]

if it is a stuck needle you can try tapping on the carb lightly (so you don't break the carb) with a hammer to cause vibs and unstick the needle.  do it while the motor is running.

it works sometimes. 

i doubt the float has a hole in it.

you might want to check the pressure comeing out of the fuel pump.  make sure the return is working properly.  and that the pump isn't blowing fuel into the carb, whether it likes it or not.

also check the AAP valve.  they're typical to go out on those carbs.

and yes there are cal. legal webers.  i have one on my wife's truck.  has the C.A.R.B. tag on it and everything.  got it from Redline.

[1985ToyotaForLife]

What is the AAP valve? And the pump is shooting fuel, I don't know if it's blasting it in there or not, and since we put the motor back in, I kind of guessed on the return line routing due to it being a long time since I unhooked the fuel system, Anyone know how the lines are suppose to go so I can check mine?

The hammer trick, will I notice a difference, like will the fuel in the window come back down to normal if it works or what?

Thanks, D.

[RUGER]

the aap is the axelery accelerator pump.

happy trails
rich *ruger* high tower

[FVF_SAS]

hey 85yota4life,

you never did let me know about that mixture problem....is it rich at idle or above idle???

[1985ToyotaForLife]

I actually think it's rich all the time, no matter whats the engine speed, It gets horrible gas mileage and I only have 33s with the stock 4.10s, so I'm thinking it should get more then 12 or so mpg. That leads me to believe rich all the time.

Oh, and the carb I was getting fell through, so i don't know what i'm gonna do.

D.

[whitetoy]

Had the same problem with my carb a few years ago.  started running real rich, and hard to start.  Ran great on the
highway, when the consumption kept up with the excess gas coming into the float bowl .  Was able to get home
to Sacramento from Death Valley that way.  I replaced just  the needle and seat.  Been running like a champ
ever since.  Cost about $10 from the local carb store, for just the needle/seat package.
Verified that the float still floated, otherwise that would be another $80 or so (floats are pricey).
Toy carbs are better than the Webers when properly adjusted and in good shape.
Can't beat OEM .

[1985ToyotaForLife]

Hey whitetoy, do you think you could run me through the steps of replacing the valve? I'm trying to find a store that sells carb parts like that around Raliegh, NC. But I have no idea how to replace it, I really don't have much experience with carb's. I know to go ahead and pull the carb, which I did anyway thinking I was replacing it.

Thanks, D.

[kyle_22r]

you know how much they run by chance??

last i checked they were about $340  but that inclued a k&n filter and adapter plate 

the last i checked, a weber kit was about $400, that's just the general price.  a k&n air cleaner assembly is around $100 on its own

i'm going the cheap route...i bought a generic 9" round filter out of the ricer crap aisle at autozone and bought lc's 22R to 5 1/8" round cleaner kit for $30 or so.  when the paper filter wears out i'll buy a k&n 

[79coyotefrg]

Kyle,  that was the price Carl at LCEngineering quoted me about 2 months ago,  they were on sale and I have bought lots of stuff so he was giving me a discount i guess,  i know my 1st weber conversion kit cost me $425,   

[1985ToyotaForLife]

Anyone run me through the steps to quickly change out the needle valve and seat? whitetoy said he did it on his just wondering what all you have to do to do it.

Thanks, D.

[1985ToyotaForLife]

So no one knows how to replace the Niddle valve in a '85 22R carb? One of you guys must know, please. I got the part now, and I don't know where it goes really.

Another question. I replaced a couple of the fuel lines before the fuel pump with lines that were just a little smaller then stock, would this cause my problem?

Thanks, D.

[MidgetMike]

I am on the second truck with a rebuilt engine from some one else and not a rebuilt carb yet, REBUILD YOUR CARB, STOCK TOY CARBS WHEEL LIKE HELL AND WORK GREAT WITH LESS THAN 200K ON THEM other wise plug the vacum line that is closest to you from the front of truck on the right side it plugs into a diaphram and the diaphram brakes and makes your truck run rich pluging it prevents richness screw other carbs unless you have a hot motor.  All those webbers you see for sale are cause they don't handle the angle as well.         
I can lput my truck at almost 90 degrees any way up down left or right side with out stalling, your truck doesn't need to run upside down.

[Volcom]

I can lput my truck at almost 90 degrees any way up down left or right side with out stalling, your truck doesn't need to run upside down.

Any tips on adjusting the carb?  Lower fuel pressure, lower float level.  Anything else?  I've never owned a carb'ed truck or car so carb tuning is kinda of a new thing for me.  Any tips would be handy