Author Topic: welding tips please! (Read 5468 times)

CJDavis · « **on:** Jul 12, 2009, 10:28:38 PM »

hey guys, just starting to practice with my new welder. I'm working up my skills in order to complete a flatbed on my truck.

My question is: For working on my truck how should I set up my welder? AC/DC+/DC-? Why would I choose one over the other?

Also, what electrodes do you guys suggest for.....

a.) structural fabrication b.) tubing fabrication? (ie roll cages)

Thanks

motoracer · « **Reply #1 on:** Jul 13, 2009, 05:31:52 AM »

i use 1613 welding rods , dc is better then ac ,really dont know the difference in ac and dc ,just dc gives me a better weld. on my bed i used a mig a lot easier and i cant stick weld that good.

crazykooter · « **Reply #2 on:** Jul 13, 2009, 07:52:11 AM »

You want to use DC and depending on your stick welder you need to pay attention to 2 things. 1 GET the correct welding rod for your thickness. 2 Practice on a piece of steel same thickness of what your plan to use. Adjust your amps by welding 2 pieces together then cut them apart and look to see if you got full penetration. Stick welding is a great way to weld thicker steel and have a very strong finished product. Migs are easier but for the price of a good mig welder that will do 3/16+ welds your better off just learning to stick weld even tho it will take a little long to get your welds flat and smooth.

CJDavis · « **Reply #3 on:** Jul 13, 2009, 08:39:50 AM »

what about dc+ vs dc-?

4RunnerChevy · « **Reply #4 on:** Jul 13, 2009, 03:31:35 PM »

If you trying to figure DC- or DC+ then you need to get a book, or take a class. Thats my tip of the day.

potter85 · « **Reply #5 on:** Jul 13, 2009, 03:48:51 PM »

do not use 6013... i am a welder and we refer to 6013 as garbage rod... because it is garbage... the first 2 number stand for the tensile strength of the steel in the rod and the third number describes what position the rod can be used to weld in 1= all positions 2= flat and horizontial positions 3= flat positions. for what your looking at doing you should run dc straight (DC-) which means the current comes from the machine and out of the electrode and into the ground. (DC+) is the opp.
Stick welding takes alot more skill but is alot stronger than a mig welder. I recommend using an 3/32 E7018 electrode at about 95 amps for tubing about 120 wall may be a little hot to learn on so adjust it if it is hot. I am a welder and we use 7018 or "lo hi" for complete x ray joints and structual welding. It is tried and true and been around for a long time. There is a reason why the dont use MIG (metal inert gas) for structual welding. it is easier but not as strong. everyone seems to think that the MIG process is the best of the best but it is not. You can have no skill and use a MIG welder and make a decent looking weld. Although A 220 mig welder is enough to create a good joint for a cage or sliders or whatever. but the 7018 will be stronger if done correctly

junya92toy · « **Reply #6 on:** Jul 13, 2009, 04:21:42 PM »

You want to use dc- 70% of the heat is at the weld puddle, if you need to weld thin stuff use dc+ it will keep most of the heat at the rod end. There is nothing wrong with 6013. Its a globular transfer, 6010 is a spray. Both are all position. 6010 is a dc rod, 6011 is a ac rod and 6013 is a dc. 7018 can be ran on ac or dc. but you have to keep it dry, in a rod oven. gong back to 60xx series they are strong, and what is used in a root pass on pipe welding.

91 super yoda · « **Reply #7 on:** Jul 13, 2009, 07:53:38 PM »

a 7018 is a good all around rod, it produces a good looking weld and is pretty strong. the downside is you do have to keep them in a dryer or you have to use your entire in one day. i keep 6011's and 7014's in the garage, the 6011 isnt the prettiest but its a burn anything (steel) rod. the 7014 is a high deposit low penetrating rod but it looks good if its not a structural application i like it over the 6011. i would keep both in a 3/32 and 1/8 for different metal thicknesses. but i would recomend getting a book on stick welding.

potter85 · « **Reply #8 on:** Jul 13, 2009, 09:44:46 PM »

6013 is a brittle weld designed for a non movement joint such as pipe not roll cages. hence the low tensile strength. 7018 is maluable and strong. Dont run it on DC + either keeping all the heat on the flux burns it away before it has a chance to sheild the weld. causing weld failure. I am certified in these processes and more. trust me. it doesnt pay to do it wrong the first time. If you get a sealed rod canister the 7018 will last for a while. Even when it does absorb moisture you can always put it in an oven later and it will be fine

skyscraper · « **Reply #9 on:** Jul 13, 2009, 09:45:18 PM »

Quote from: 4runnerchevy on Jul 13, 2009, 03:31:35 PM

If you trying to figure DC- or DC+ then you need to get a book, or take a class. Thats my tip of the day.

x2

junya92toy · « **Reply #10 on:** Jul 13, 2009, 09:47:02 PM »

Well Im certified in bridge welding for stick wire and sub arc I have a 2 year degree too. And you have run dc+ it help on thin things.. Ive ran dc+ doing a g3 and passed a bend test.

CJDavis · « **Reply #11 on:** Jul 13, 2009, 09:50:15 PM »

Thanks for all the help. btw I have several books but I wanted the opinions of the people on the board....

junya92toy · « **Reply #12 on:** Jul 13, 2009, 09:55:32 PM »

To be honest you can read anything you want. It just comes down to practice.

skyscraper · « **Reply #13 on:** Jul 13, 2009, 10:48:35 PM »

Quote from: jerry92toy on Jul 13, 2009, 09:55:32 PM

To be honest you can read anything you want. It just comes down to practice.

ya but you gotta know where to start. Sounds like this is what hes looking for

potter85 · « **Reply #14 on:** Jul 13, 2009, 11:01:48 PM »

we use sub arc on 5 million gallon tanks and 7018 plus innershield. One weld failure and you flood houses and towns. pays to do it right

potter85 · « **Reply #15 on:** Jul 13, 2009, 11:05:28 PM »

junya92toy · « **Reply #16 on:** Jul 14, 2009, 07:10:54 AM »

Well when you weld bridge girders you have to be 100% or bridge will fail and the train will fail. The cert test for that is, you can not grind on the test plate at all. They xray the whole thing just not where its bend tested. IF thats ok then they bend it. On a normal structural test you can do any grinding to the test plate if you dont like a pass. So that means, in my starts and stops on the stick cert I still had no defects.

Crawler677 · « **Reply #17 on:** Jul 14, 2009, 11:50:12 AM »

whoa potter, what is that tank for

?

it took me a second to realize those are people standing on it not ants lol

Looks pretty cool

Sorry for the thread jack

potter85 · « **Reply #18 on:** Jul 14, 2009, 10:29:49 PM »

the guy on the roof to the right is me. that tank holds 5 million gallons of drinking water for Santa Claritia... And i dont know where your from but every test i have ever taken you werent even allowed to even look at a grinder. 6g no restrictor plate. dual sheild unlimited thinkness all position. 7018 unlimited thickness all position. The cwi has actually never left my side well taking any test.

potter85 · « **Reply #19 on:** Jul 15, 2009, 03:58:59 PM »

good luck with your welding CJDavis and alot of it is just pratice and using the correct process. alot of it is knowing how to set up for what your doing and the skill will come...

4RunnerChevy · « **Reply #20 on:** Jul 15, 2009, 04:16:58 PM »

I don't think the guy is gonna be welding bridges ! Welding On a truck and welding on a bridge are completely different. Having done both, I cant even think of the similarity, except looking at the bead and knowing what to look for. The Dual Shield is worthless on a truck (due to material thickness), but I can see using the 7018.

My advice is keep a notebook, and when you find what works, jot it down, as well as the material and thickness. Then pretty soon you won't need it anymore, and it becomes second nature.

junya92toy · « **Reply #21 on:** Jul 16, 2009, 07:39:37 AM »

I will say this potter sometimes I really love doing sub arc other times I hate it. Not seeing the bead drives me crazy. You dont know whats going on for about 6inchs after the fact.

potter85 · « **Reply #22 on:** Jul 16, 2009, 04:09:22 PM »

yeah seriously... and you can make a mess real fast. we have these buggys with a sub arc on both sides (dual head) that weld the horizontal seam. and if you bump the amps up you can easily blow a hole in the side of the tank shell. the generator will power it dual head up to 600 amps.

junya92toy · « **Reply #23 on:** Jul 16, 2009, 04:58:13 PM »

Someone at work blew a hole in a bridgegirder and that cost at least 50k I think

CJDavis [OP]

CJDavis [OP]

Related Topics