Author Topic: new motor break in/ oils (Read 3523 times)

hotrod · « **on:** Jun 30, 2009, 07:01:52 AM »

So i am finally coming to the completion of my 20/22r hybrid build/rebuild. I have heard lots of different intervals for breaking in the motor and im not sure which one would be best, or just complete overkill. Im thinking about runnin amsoil in it AFTER its broken in, not sure what to break it in on though. What do yall break a motor in on and what intervals do you change it at?

83 22r block .020 over
20r head
22r valves
engbldr cam
double row timing chain
new pistons, rings, bearings, oil pump, all that good stuff
engnbldr rock gaskets

brainlessfool · « **Reply #1 on:** Jun 30, 2009, 07:03:49 AM »

30 wt. 500 miles.

hotrod · « **Reply #2 on:** Jun 30, 2009, 07:23:45 AM »

every 500 for how many miles or changes?

jimbo74 · « **Reply #3 on:** Jun 30, 2009, 07:32:04 AM »

bookmarked, i am in the same boat, hope to have my engine done this week!

jimbo74 · « **Reply #4 on:** Jun 30, 2009, 07:41:34 AM »

i was looking into royal purple break in oil..... its expensive though

Larryb · « **Reply #5 on:** Jun 30, 2009, 09:36:06 AM »

Do not use a synthetic oil to break in your engine. Me personally i prefer to run regular 30 weight oil for about the first 20-30 min at higher rpm to break in the cam and then change it. I then go to a regular 10w30 for about 500 mi and change it again. The next oil change would be at 3000 miles. I would stay away from full synthetics for about the first 5000 miles or there is a good chance your rings will not seat properly. Just my 2cents

*ROKTOY* · « **Reply #6 on:** Jun 30, 2009, 10:08:10 AM »

I used the RP breakin oil, changed at 500 and went to RP 10W30. Change at 3000 there after no problem at all. Still did the standard 2500 rpm for the first 25 min.

hotrod · « **Reply #7 on:** Jun 30, 2009, 12:00:41 PM »

what about filters? a good filter? better safe than sorry right?

Slolyfe · « **Reply #8 on:** Jun 30, 2009, 12:18:16 PM »

I always buy filters from the dealership. They are like 5 bucks and you get the drain plug gasket.

hotrod · « **Reply #9 on:** Jun 30, 2009, 01:06:20 PM »

dang i didnt realize they were so cheap. i just spent 95 bucks on oil, filters, and antifreeze. . . and thats just break in oil. ugh

Slolyfe · « **Reply #10 on:** Jun 30, 2009, 01:18:40 PM »

Quote from: hotrod on Jun 30, 2009, 01:06:20 PM

dang i didnt realize they were so cheap. i just spent 95 bucks on oil, filters, and antifreeze. . . and thats just break in oil. ugh

thats all I buy from the dealership. Usually they have a deal; filter, 5 qts of oil, and a drain gasket for 15.99.

brainlessfool · « **Reply #11 on:** Jun 30, 2009, 05:29:50 PM »

Quote from: Larryb on Jun 30, 2009, 09:36:06 AM

Do not use a synthetic oil to break in your engine. Me personally i prefer to run regular 30 weight oil for about the first 20-30 min at higher rpm to break in the cam and then change it. I then go to a regular 10w30 for about 500 mi and change it again. The next oil change would be at 3000 miles. I would stay away from full synthetics for about the first 5000 miles or there is a good chance your rings will not seat properly. Just my 2cents

that's it right there.

unclejpl4x4 · « **Reply #12 on:** Jun 30, 2009, 06:43:21 PM »

I fudge up on oil when i was breaking in i i could do it over i would get the RP break in oil I run RP now

O and mobil1 sucks (keep it clean, this is a family web site)

jimbo74 · « **Reply #13 on:** Jun 30, 2009, 06:45:01 PM »

Quote from: ÜncleĴ on Jun 30, 2009, 06:43:21 PM

I fudge up on oil when i was breaking in i i could do it over i would get the RP break in oil I run RP now

O and mobil1 sucks

why does mobil 1 suck? i have heard quite a few things about them as being good, and the others also, but then soem say they are bad, so how does anyone know what is the better, or why the other is bad?

Wermz84 · « **Reply #14 on:** Jun 30, 2009, 09:00:13 PM »

I used Valvoline 10w-30 on mine. It also had a lot of assembly lube in it.

Ran it 20 minutes to burnish in the new can and new rockers (I did not see new rocker arms listed in your parts list). Change oil and filter, check valves

100 miles, did it again

500 miles, did it again

1000 miles, did it again.

Now I do it every 2500 to 3000.

this is just me.

Cheesemaker · « **Reply #15 on:** Jun 30, 2009, 09:59:39 PM »

Use DELO 400 30 wt. It has the phosphorus and zinc that these motors need. But if you got to smog, don't run it while smogging. Get a oil filter for a 85 toyota 4runner, for some reason they list a bigger filter for that year of 4runner. Its' comparable to the ford filters.

emsvitil · « **Reply #16 on:** Jun 30, 2009, 10:21:12 PM »

The larger (taller) and common filter is a purolator L30001 previously know as PER1A or equivalent (except for fram, don't get fram)

Fits in my 86, and my 64 plymouth valiant with slant 6, and is the filter size that fits remote filter mounts.

And it's also cheaper.

emsvitil · « **Reply #17 on:** Jun 30, 2009, 10:21:49 PM »

Quote from: Cheesemaker on Jun 30, 2009, 09:59:39 PM

Use DELO 400 30 wt. It has the phosphorus and zinc that these motors need. But if you got to smog, don't run it while smogging. Get a oil filter for a 85 toyota 4runner, for some reason they list a bigger filter for that year of 4runner. Its' comparable to the ford filters.

What does it do that affects smog tests?

Cheesemaker · « **Reply #18 on:** Jul 01, 2009, 08:18:18 AM »

It has higher ZINC & PHOSPHORUS in it. And these are some of the items they look for in a smog test.

hotrod · « **Reply #19 on:** Jul 01, 2009, 09:33:50 AM »

i have castrol 30wt in it and a purolator premium filter on it right now for the cam break in (25 min at 2500rpm). dont have the motor in the truck yet, just checkin to make sure i put that darn rear main in right. have two more filters and castrol 10w30 for break in. run it for 100 miles, change, run for 500 miles, change, change it again at around 1000 miles. then keep running 10w30 till i get 5000-6000 miles on the motor then will probably switch to amsoil 10w30 full syn and possibly amsoil filters.

anybody see anything wrong with that? castrol is pretty much all ive used, it decent oil? for break in purposes? i used to run that monster mobil1 filter on the old motor. but the purolator was half the price for break in. . . should i go get some delo 400 for initial breakin and then run the castrol at the 500 mile change? . . . whew! thats alot of questions!

jimbo74 · « **Reply #20 on:** Jul 01, 2009, 11:21:00 AM »

hotrod, your procedure and oil sounds good to me, but then again i don't know much...... i might actually be jacking your procedure if anyone else says that is good

although i liek the ford morotcraft fl1a, its under $5 @ wally world

hotrod · « **Reply #21 on:** Jul 01, 2009, 07:42:13 PM »

dont use my procedure unless someone gives it an ok, i know nothing about building engines! . . . and i wish i wouldve shopped around for a better oilfilter for the price i paid, o well, got it all in one trip!

hotrod · « **Reply #22 on:** Jul 03, 2009, 03:08:30 PM »

so im probably gonna start her up tonight. anything special to do besides turn it over like normal? and for the 100 and 500 intervals i need to keep it below 45mph and take it easy right? When can i take it up to speed and tow stuff and not harm the breakin at all?

*ROKTOY* · « **Reply #23 on:** Jul 03, 2009, 03:32:36 PM »

Yea, Pull the plugs and crank it till you get oil pressure before you start it. Then don't tow or run it hard for at least 1000 mi. Vary your speed, don't run constent speeds till at least 500 mile.

hotrod · « **Reply #24 on:** Jul 03, 2009, 08:38:58 PM »

hmmkay. . . this is gonna be difficult to do. . .

jimbo74 · « **Reply #25 on:** Jul 03, 2009, 10:26:27 PM »

Quote from: hotrod on Jul 03, 2009, 08:38:58 PM

hmmkay. . . this is gonna be difficult to do. . .

or it wont run properly, and can spin the bearings... either way.....

hotrod · « **Reply #26 on:** Jul 04, 2009, 07:04:38 AM »

ya, i reckon ill be winch runner for a while while other people break stuff!

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