Suburban won't turn over

Started by jrock, June 19, 2009, 04:10:42 PM

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jrock

I need a bit of help with a 1993 Suburban, 454cu.in., 4x4. New battery and starter.

I need a FSM but really would like to download one, if someone knows where. The truck will not turn-over or even click but the voltmeter shows 12v, the lights work and everything works. It has started twice in 100 tries.

:hammer: grounding issue?  :help: 

TIMS89CRAWLER

check voltage at the starter and check the sense wire as well if both work beat the starter with a hammer... it wouldnt be the first time a new starter has been dead
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79coyotefrg

assuming its not got internal damage  i bet its just a bad ground


or a bad starter
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brainlessfool

well depending on what ya mean, check for 12V at the starter. then have someone hold the key and check with key in start pas.  if ya gots 12V there with the key on and no turn over (messered from the starter post to frame ground not back to the batt.) you can try to jump the starter it's self. put a wire on the small trem. that next to the block and put 12v on it. if the starter still will not turn you've more than liky got a bad one. should clik and go. if it justs cliks and no go it's bad IF you have 12v there. (make sure you have good cables)

if I miss read this then I would say just get it going realy fast on dry pavment and turn the wheel hard.
A good day working, that's just sick :reg:

jimbo74

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jrock

Quote from: jimbo74 on June 19, 2009, 06:09:21 PM
new tow rig?!
Haha, maybe.

This vehicle had the EXACT same problem before I started tying stuff. It now has the new starter and battery, the alternator is new and once running it runs great. The frame is covered in surface rust (it was a Tahoe vehicle it's entire life) which is why I think it's a grounding issue. I picked up a Chilton Manual so as to chase down the problem. Input still welcome.

jimbo74

check the wires..... either ground or power....

my bet is bad wires... you may not be able to see it, but i bet they are corroded internally

also, how are you checking 12v sitting?

a dvom or multi-meter?
batteries should be sitting @ 12.6 with no surface charge, and should be around 14.6 when running

you said it does run and will stay running once fired up?

what about the ign switch?
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kneedownnate

Quote from: jrock on June 19, 2009, 06:23:17 PM
The frame is covered in surface rust

Very common for frames and running gear for non-undercoated rigs, even when new on the lot  ;)
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fordh8r

Two guesses:

First, possibly the ground cable is loose where it connects to the engine. You've already addressed the battery end when you replaced the battery (assuming the cable ends were ok). Since you've already messed with both ends of the Pos cable (when the battery and starter were replaced) that leaves only the engine connection for the ground that has not been addressed. :thumbs:

Second, (assuming this is an A/T) what about the neutral safety switch? Has it gone bad or come loose and out of adjustment?

The only thing left is replacing the cables or possibly a bad starter.  :crossed: :twocents:

brainlessfool

A good day working, that's just sick :reg:

jrock

It was fixed two hours ago. This truck is my friends and the problem was the alarm system. I didn't  know about it cuz the horn had been cut off, that tripped the system and it wouldn't let the engine turn-over. Stupid stuff. Anyway, now it has a new starter and battery. Stupid stuff.