Author Topic: would 5/16 plate be enough for t-case center section?  (Read 2113 times)

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yota-tota

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would 5/16 plate be enough for t-case center section?
« on: Mar 13, 2009, 04:24:16 AM »
I got a piece of 5/16 stainless steel for free from work and I was goin to make it into a fror style t-case mount. Would it be thick enough? I'm goin to be able to make two triangle gussets the way I'm goin to mount it if need be.
91 toy truggy on h2 injection, hacked n chopped n locked n SAS'd rolling 36" IROKS........doubler comming soon

MiniSimp

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I would say no, and SS is a pregnant dog to weld correctly.

Duffil

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no way. the FROR is 3/8" and that's been broken quite a few times.

kneedownnate

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Mild steel will often twist or show signs of tearing before it fully fails, but stainless often just breaks with no warning.  Save that for some dress up stuff, don't waste it on that app though  :thumbs:
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4RunnerChevy

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3/8 or larger.  What grade of stainless ?  Not all stainless is created equal.  Personally, with the right equipment, stainless is easy to weld.

Hyena

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do it but make it bigger outside of the bolt holes.  the fror ones always crack right next to the bolt holes.  some grades of stainless are just as easy to weld as mild steel and can actually be welded with regular wire.

boggerunner

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i just had 4 of these made from 3/8".  gotta love autocad

yota-tota [OP]

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LOL thats the same pattern i used!! i just rotated it 10* for my R10 adapter.

Oh and i ended up finding some 3/8" SS plate from our aerospace material section at work. Its aparently harded and its what the Military uses for SS plate so it should work well. And i find SS welds better then mild steel for the most part!! Tig is just silly easy and sexy and using 316 rod for stick makes siiick welds too.....gotta love working at a machine shop!
91 toy truggy on h2 injection, hacked n chopped n locked n SAS'd rolling 36" IROKS........doubler comming soon

boggerunner

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this one is clocked 10*  and what u see cost me $21 each

yota-tota [OP]

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Nicee! so went you clocked it just used the file from Pirate then turned it 10* right? Thats how i did mine so i would have it flat at the bottom, i just plasma'd mine so i still have a bit of deburring to do on the inside.....i'm going to talk to the CNC programers and see if they'll run off a bunch for me to sell.
91 toy truggy on h2 injection, hacked n chopped n locked n SAS'd rolling 36" IROKS........doubler comming soon

boggerunner

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nope, my buddy did it for me on autocad, and now ive got auto cad 2009 so i can make all kinds of things.  and these were cut out on a plasma tabe, so ive got some deburring to do also

 
 
 
 
 

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