Topic: Getting the gears I want in my crawl box and transfer case.

[SeanFoster]

Hopefully this is not a dumb question, but what is the best way to get the stock 2.28's in a crawl box and 4.7's in the transfer case?  Assuming my transmission is an R151F, I'm thinking that I'd take my stock 2.28's out of the transfer case, purchase a crawl box with 4.7's (23-spline input and output) and then swap the gears from the crawl box to transfer case and vice versa.  This would give me 23-spline in and 23-spline out of the crawl box which has 2.28's and 23-spline in and 23-spline out of the transfer case which has 4.7's, right?

If the above is correct but I want to use a W56 and still have 23-spline in the rear, would I do the swap but get the 4.7's in the crawl box with the 23-spline input and 23-spline output, and then swap them around but also replace the stock 21-spline output shaft with a 23-spline?  This would give me the same as above but with a 21-spline input to the crawl box, right?

I'm trying to do all the research I can before I start my build because I want to do it right the first time and I don't want to have to buy all new stuff if I can help it.

[Duffil]

why not just buy the gears and build it?

and you can run a 23spline in the crawl box behind a W series trans. L, W, G series transmissions are all 21 spline outputs.

[SeanFoster [OP]]

Why not just buy the gears and build it?

Yeah, that's probably best.  Then I can start right off with the 4.7's in the transfer case and then add the crawl box later using the stock 2.28's.  Quick question though:  Where do you get an empty crawl box?

As for the transmission, I think I'm going to hold out for an R151F since that's what I want to end up with anyways.  Then it will be 23-spline all the way.

And a final question:  Welding the spider gears together seems more like a poor-man's solution to locking the differentials but I could be wrong.  Would this work well or should I just save up for the lockers?

[4RunnerChevy]

Welding the spider gears together seems more like a poor-man's solution to locking the differentials but I could be wrong.  Would this work well or should I just save up for the lockers?

That hurts, spend your cash, and buy from Marlin !

[SeanFoster [OP]]

That hurts, spend your cash, and buy from Marlin !

I figured so much.  I'll be getting all my new parts from Marlin.  So what are your recommendations . . . ARB, Detroit, etc.?  What are the advantages and disadvantages of each?  I know the ARB's are air lockers (I have some snow cat experience with them) and I understand the Detroits are ratcheting lockers.  I'm not looking to make a competition rig, just something that will get me from one end of the Rubicon to the other without making me sweat too much.

One final thing . . . I doubt my dad would even let me use any parts, but he has an '88 F-250.  Is there anything off of it that I might be able to use on my truck ('82 Pickup, 4X4, SR5)? 

[Slolyfe]

What I did was a single 4.7 case untill I was ready to do all my major suspension mods. Then I did all my cutting and hacking and got a secont case, that way I only had to do the driveshafts once, which worked out well.

I am running a detroit in the rear and an arb up front. Ive had the detroit in the rear since it was my daily driver and never had a problem with it other than the usual loud clunk. but love it off road. The arb is great that you have the option to turn it on and off, but the one thing i dont like is so many possibilities for failure. The compressor can go out, selinoid, air line. Never had a problem yet just more thing to go wrong.

Hope that helps

[SeanFoster [OP]]

It helps a lot.  Would it not be a good idea to put Detroits on the front?  A lot of people seem to have different ones on the front and rear.  Is there some advantage to it or is it usually someone who is in the process of changing/upgrading?  ARB's do cost a pretty penny, but I know that they work very well and are very reliable if installed properly.

[Slolyfe]

Detroits are operated by torque(your foot on the throttle). When your front axle is locked up then turning is very hard. Even with the wheels cranked the truck still wants to go straight and without power steering its impossible to turn your wheels. I wouldnt wheel without a manually controlled locker in the front. It is awesome to approach an obstacle turn on your locker go over it and then turn it off. Also on hill climbs if you have no control over a front locker your rig can loose traction and drift side to side(leading to a rollover). ARBs are expensive but worth the money in my opinion.

[SeanFoster [OP]]

Would it be better to go all ARB's, front and rear?  It seems like that would give you the most versatility and save tire wear when driving it on the road.

[Slolyfe]

Arbs all around are nice but i have never had a problem with the rear detroit. Toyotas are so light that i never really ate up tires. But they do make some ugly noises every once in a while and you need a light foot in rain and snow. Also keep a close eye on your tire pressures cause if they are too far off the detroit will start to act up.

[SeanFoster [OP]]

I think I'll just go ARB all around.  I live up where it snows half the year . . . about 30 miles East of Shaver Lake, CA.

[dniel]

If you have the cash go ARB front and rear. The ratcheting lockers are great offroad because they are always on and you don't have to think about them but on the road they are a little sketchy in rain and snow and terrifying on ice.

[bigarms23]

i do arbs or taco elockers or a detroit rear and arb front