Topic: disc brakes in the rear

[NCK4L]

so i just put a dana 44 in the rear of my 91 pickup it out of a 94 isuzu rodeo so it has disc brakes. Ive been searchin for info on if i need to change my master cylinder or not i just recently saw that someone used a 3/4-1 ton m/c of a chevy supposedly that works good. Right now my brakes dont feel right if anyone has any info on what they have done id appreciate thanks.

[NCK4L [OP]]

ttt

[93yoda]

FJ80 master works too. I'm pretty sure thats what one it is. Searh around some.

[Duffil]

so i just put a dana 44 in the rear of my 91 pickup it out of a 94 isuzu rodeo so it has disc brakes. Ive been searchin for info on if i need to change my master cylinder or not i just recently saw that someone used a 3/4-1 ton m/c of a chevy supposedly that works good. Right now my brakes dont feel right if anyone has any info on what they have done id appreciate thanks.

yes you should change out your cylinder. best bet would be to find the size of the rodeo cylinder and then at least match that size if not go larger and then install a proportioning valve to fine tune the pressure out back. I don't have a catalog here at home or i'd tell you what to look for.

[93tonkatoy]

I just did a full custom rear disk brake swap to my 93. I'm running 36" IROKS. I used the front single piston floating calipers from a 2wd. I am still using the LSPV (disconnected and tied up). I have found that while it takes a small amount more pedal travel to engage the brakes, It takes a lot less pressure on the pedal to stop the truck. Yesterday I hauled a car to the scrapyard with a gross weight of 7900 pounds (way over the GVWR), and when stopping, it performed better than the drums did with no load. I have not changed the MC or the booster. With no load, the brakes engage smoothly, do not lock up, and stop the truck very quickly, with considerably less pedal pressure (I would have to almost stand on the brakes before to make a panic stop).

Every setup is going to be different, as in the change in size of the pistons in the caliper, bore of the MC, the power of the booster, etc. You will need to determine if the pedal travel is unacceptable for safe use. If you use a larger bore MC, the pedal pressure required to stop the vehicle in a given distance will increase. If you use a stronger booster, you can overcome this.

[NCK4L [OP]]

I just did a full custom rear disk brake swap to my 93. I'm running 36" IROKS. I used the front single piston floating calipers from a 2wd. I am still using the LSPV (disconnected and tied up). I have found that while it takes a small amount more pedal travel to engage the brakes, It takes a lot less pressure on the pedal to stop the truck. Yesterday I hauled a car to the scrapyard with a gross weight of 7900 pounds (way over the GVWR), and when stopping, it performed better than the drums did with no load. I have not changed the MC or the booster. With no load, the brakes engage smoothly, do not lock up, and stop the truck very quickly, with considerably less pedal pressure (I would have to almost stand on the brakes before to make a panic stop).

Every setup is going to be different, as in the change in size of the pistons in the caliper, bore of the MC, the power of the booster, etc. You will need to determine if the pedal travel is unacceptable for safe use. If you use a larger bore MC, the pedal pressure required to stop the vehicle in a given distance will increase. If you use a stronger booster, you can overcome this.

so when using your brakes will your pedal go all the way to the floor since your using your stock m/c

[93tonkatoy]

No. It will go about half to 2/3rds of the way to the floor, but by that time the brakes are LOCKED, and I'm piling cars up behind me. When I put the 36's on, I didn't do any other brake upgrades, and I would have to push HARD to stop quickly. Now, the force it used to take to do a normal slow to stop, is a very controlled "panic stop". As soon as I start pressing the brake, I can feel the brakes engaging, and it is a very easy and smooth progression. It almost feels like the difference in switching from a vehicle without power brakes, to one with power brakes, if you know what I mean.

[tryn2Crawl]

If you are concerned the get Rockstomper's GM 1-ton master cylinder kit with adapter to fit onto your toyota booster.Its like $100 bucks only...Check it out and get back to us if you decide to go that way

[NCK4L [OP]]

If you are concerned the get Rockstomper's GM 1-ton master cylinder kit with adapter to fit onto your toyota booster.Its like $100 bucks only...Check it out and get back to us if you decide to go that way

yeah i cant get the rockstomper setup though because its for 1ton brakes like for  a dana 60 and i just have 44's so the guy was saying the pedal will be hard to push cause the calipers wont except the  amount of fluid that m/c will be pushing.
He suggested to go with the fj80 m/c i think its like a 1/16 bigger bore, but i think im gonna just gonna deal with it for now. i might get the adjusting proportiong valve though i heard that helps a little bit

[84xcab]

Actually its not just for 1-ton axles, it is used to adapt a m/c from a one ton truck for more power. Lots of people use them on toy axle disc conversions.

[OOPS]

You will find a lot of good information on brakes and MC's here. Erick has done a lot of research on braking systems.

http://home.4x4wire.com/erik/

[NCK4L [OP]]

You will find a lot of good information on brakes and MC's here. Erick has done a lot of research on braking systems.

http://home.4x4wire.com/erik/

thanks oops that info seemed really helpful. Looks like i might need the rockstomper adapter but i'll need a half ton m/c