Author Topic: Ring and Pinion?  (Read 2857 times)

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JoeShmo65

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Ring and Pinion?
« on: Jan 21, 2009, 08:19:37 PM »
alright so im still kinda new with the whole ring and pinion deal. iev got a 94 yota pickup with 3:88 in them and this guy has a ring and pinion that are 4:10 which is wat i want how do i no what size i need? the guy says the ring and pinion are 8" how do i find out if mine are 8" also?
"what was that daddy?"..."Don't worry honey, just a jeep i used for traction, now go back to sleep."
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whokrz

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Re: Ring and Pinion?
« Reply #1 on: Jan 21, 2009, 08:23:42 PM »
The rear differential on a 94 is a 8"
The front differential is smaller if you still have the IFS 7.5 I think
1990 4runner, 22re, R151, 4.7, 5.29s, E-locker front, Lock-Rite rear, 37" MTRs, 51" rears all around
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whokrz

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Re: Ring and Pinion?
« Reply #2 on: Jan 21, 2009, 08:26:58 PM »
If you are just getting the ring and pinion and not the whole differential I wouldn't bother to have them set up only to get 410 gears. That cost to much money for not much gain. I would get 488 instead.
1990 4runner, 22re, R151, 4.7, 5.29s, E-locker front, Lock-Rite rear, 37" MTRs, 51" rears all around
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micahturner

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Re: Ring and Pinion?
« Reply #3 on: Jan 22, 2009, 05:35:18 AM »
x2 on the 4:88 or maybe even 5:29 depending on the tire size you'll be running. Even running 33's on 4:10's you truck will be a dog on the road. You will be spending some serious cash on R&P install if you are having a shop do it professionally, so might as well make it worth your while.

JoeShmo65 [OP]

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Re: Ring and Pinion?
« Reply #4 on: Jan 22, 2009, 11:23:59 AM »
ya true but this truck is my daily driver, and i plan on doin a ssa on the front, as for tires itll be 31's on the road and 33's off-road
"what was that daddy?"..."Don't worry honey, just a jeep i used for traction, now go back to sleep."
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whokrz

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Re: Ring and Pinion?
« Reply #5 on: Jan 22, 2009, 05:01:08 PM »
I have 5.29 gears with 31" street tires and 37" off road tires. The torque with the 31's is nice, hills are no longer a problem, but to do 65mph you are in 5th gear @ 3400 rpm This is about the top speed with out the engine and transmission sounding like they are going to come apart. If you had 4.88 gears and 31" tires 65mph would be 3100rpm in 5th gear, assuming that you are running a manual transmission with a .85 5th gear.

You will want to do the SAS before your gears, because your front differential will be different in the solid axle.

If you are only going to run 33's I would look on craigslist for a 4cyl 4.10 differential with a aussie locker or some other auto locker. The solid axle you get will probably come with 4.10. This will save money not having to setup gears, you will get good traction off road, have the street gears you want, and it should cost under $300.
Then later if you ever want to move up to larger tires and different gears you can sell the aussie differential for around what you bought it for.
1990 4runner, 22re, R151, 4.7, 5.29s, E-locker front, Lock-Rite rear, 37" MTRs, 51" rears all around
Trail Reviews http://www.gentryoffroad.com
Toyota Factory Service Manuals http://ncttora.com/fsm/index.html

93tonkatoy

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Re: Ring and Pinion?
« Reply #6 on: Jan 22, 2009, 07:10:34 PM »
If your engine and tranny sound like they're going to come apart at 3100 - 3400 rpm, then you have a more serious problem than gearing. the redline for the 22r is 5500. I'm running 36's and 5.29's (yes, still slightly over-tired), and 70 on the interstate is right at 3500 rpm (and the last 1/3 of the throttle travel gains absolutely nothing), and that is about the middle of the HP curve of the stock engine. If you gear too high, the rolling resistance and wind resistance increases faster than the HP of the engine, and you get a lower top speed, at full throttle (guzzling gas the whole way). I ran a 350 mile trip (before the 36's) on 33's with the 5.29's, ran 75 - 80 mph the whole way, at 3500 - 4000 rpm, and had throttle left (and averaged around 23 mpg). Before that, I was running the 33's with 4.10's, and couldn't even get to 70. God forbid a slight increase in grade, I'd have to downshift to 3rd, just to maintain 50.

On a 4cyl, it is detrimental to keep your rpm's down, because it makes the engine work harder, while making less power. Conversely, a v-8 creates more power at a lower rpm range, and also uses more power to rotate the mass of the crank assembly, therefore cruising at a lower rpm is beneficial to the efficiency of the engine. If you keep your cruising speed at the peak of the HP curve (or as close to that as you can), you will have the best throttle response and efficiency your engine can deliver.
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SAVE TELLICO post 491

93tonkatoy

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Re: Ring and Pinion?
« Reply #7 on: Jan 22, 2009, 07:16:59 PM »
whokrz, I would encourage you to try a set of 33's for street use. you will still have the off-the-line torque and good acceleration, and 70 mph should be right around 3500 rpm, and 80 - 85 should be no problem for an engine in decent shape (not totally worn out).
It ain't worth doin' if you don't have to clean up afterwards!

Build it, break it, fix it, repeat until your wallet is empty.

I shall infuse thy Jeep with the Essence of Toyota...and maybe that one won't pee on itself at the first sight of granite. - Duffil

SAVE TELLICO post 491

labbe6

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Re: Ring and Pinion?
« Reply #8 on: Jan 23, 2009, 08:27:22 AM »
I live in a very hilly section of the California foothills.  I bought a truck with 33s and 4.88s.  It was great in the hills.  I rarely had to drop below 4th gear and the truck felt pretty sporty.  I then went with 35s and kept the 4.88s.  This was OK but I spent a lot of time in third and my milage suffered.  On ground that was more level it was fine.  Now I have a 35s and 5.29s and it is better in the hills and fine on flat ground but not as good as the 33s and 4.88s.  I agree don't do the gear change until you have the axles you want.  I will say that my IFS has worked great for all kinds of wheeling including slab crawling in the sierras, snow running, and mud runs.  The solid axle is really only going to help you on the hardest .01% of runs if you have locking diffs.   Good luck!
MIKE

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4RunnerChevy

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Re: Ring and Pinion?
« Reply #9 on: Jan 23, 2009, 04:46:21 PM »
The solid axle is really only going to help you on the hardest .01% of runs if you have locking diffs.   Good luck!

 :shake:

sweetmeat

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Re: Ring and Pinion?
« Reply #10 on: Jan 23, 2009, 07:07:43 PM »
.01%.... Huh..... :dunno:
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Snowtoy

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Re: Ring and Pinion?
« Reply #11 on: Jan 23, 2009, 08:15:41 PM »
alright so im still kinda new with the whole ring and pinion deal. iev got a 94 yota pickup with 3:88 in them and this guy has a ring and pinion that are 4:10 which is wat i want how do i no what size i need? the guy says the ring and pinion are 8" how do i find out if mine are 8" also?

Some clarification is needed.  Is this a 2wd truck that you are converting to a 4x4, or is it already a 4x4.  If it is already a 4x4, it should already have 4.10's.  If you are converting a 2wd, you don't want 4.10's since you will likely run at least 33's and will need 4.88's if manual or 5.29's if auto, or 5.29's if you are going to run 35's or bigger.
'90 black X-cab mod'd 3.0, 33's/4.88's, rear ARB, custom bumpers, sliders, safari rack, etc.
'91 Blue X-cab 22re, 35's/5.29's,Truetrac front, ARB rear, dual cases, and custom Safari flatbed, bumper, interior.
The money pit '87 Supra resto/mod

whokrz

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Re: Ring and Pinion?
« Reply #12 on: Jan 23, 2009, 08:24:55 PM »
319,000 on tranny  :thumbs: its just broken in  :yupyup:
Yes over 3500 rpm doesn't sound good when it runs the transmission at over 85 mph, but then again 1st -3rd grinds and 2nd & 4th pop out :dunno:
I had a set of 32" tires but my girlfriend took them and put them on her 4runner.
1990 4runner, 22re, R151, 4.7, 5.29s, E-locker front, Lock-Rite rear, 37" MTRs, 51" rears all around
Trail Reviews http://www.gentryoffroad.com
Toyota Factory Service Manuals http://ncttora.com/fsm/index.html

Loosekannon

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Re: Ring and Pinion?
« Reply #13 on: Jan 26, 2009, 03:11:44 AM »
Some clarification is needed.  Is this a 2wd truck that you are converting to a 4x4, or is it already a 4x4.  If it is already a 4x4, it should already have 4.10's.  If you are converting a 2wd, you don't want 4.10's since you will likely run at least 33's and will need 4.88's if manual or 5.29's if auto, or 5.29's if you are going to run 35's or bigger.
And if its a 2-wheel drive thats a 7.5 rear end too right..

Snowtoy

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Re: Ring and Pinion?
« Reply #14 on: Jan 26, 2009, 07:31:05 PM »
I am not sure, I know the 2wd V6 3rd is an 8", but I don't know about 4cyls. 
I would think that they are all 8", it would make production easier.
'90 black X-cab mod'd 3.0, 33's/4.88's, rear ARB, custom bumpers, sliders, safari rack, etc.
'91 Blue X-cab 22re, 35's/5.29's,Truetrac front, ARB rear, dual cases, and custom Safari flatbed, bumper, interior.
The money pit '87 Supra resto/mod

 
 
 
 
 

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