Author Topic: Putting in 5.29s....so how do you put them in.  (Read 3019 times)

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1985ToyotaForLife

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Putting in 5.29s....so how do you put them in.
« on: Sep 06, 2004, 12:46:06 AM »
I have the completely set-up third member for the front axle on my '85.

So how do I actually put it in?

I have the rear figured out, unbolt the drum brake backing plate to slide the axles out. So how do you do that for the front? Completely dissasemble the knuckles? Input please, I don't like the thought of having 5.29s in the rear with 4.10s in the front, that just won't work.

Thanks, D.
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88runner

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Re: Putting in 5.29s....so how do you put them in.
« Reply #1 on: Sep 06, 2004, 05:09:34 AM »
remove steering arms and lower bearing caps, remove the knuckels with axles place the 3rd put knuckel with axles in rebolt steering arms and lower bearing caps.
88 4runner v6,
5.29 with 35" tires,
Isuzu Rodeo rear disk brake,
t-case hand brake in near futur
solid axle'd

YotaYota

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Re: Putting in 5.29s....so how do you put them in.
« Reply #2 on: Sep 06, 2004, 06:49:29 AM »
remove steering arms and lower bearing caps, remove the knuckels with axles place the 3rd put knuckel with axles in rebolt steering arms and lower bearing caps.
thats a pretty good idea, never thought of doing it that way
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79coyotefrg

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Re: Putting in 5.29s....so how do you put them in.
« Reply #3 on: Sep 06, 2004, 06:18:21 PM »
 :smack:  why didnt i think of that  :smack:
are you sure that'l work??   ???
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derek

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Re: Putting in 5.29s....so how do you put them in.
« Reply #4 on: Sep 07, 2004, 06:48:26 AM »
this is the order i go for trail replacement of birfs.
undo dial bolts and pull dial off.
undo c-clip on end of axle.
if brake lines are not long enough, remove caliper (2 bolts)
undo top steering arm nuts, pull out cone washers and remove steering arm.
remove backing plate bolts (for wiper seals)
lift up slightly on knuckle and rotate down.
whole knuckle should come off as a unit.
then remove birf and axle.
if you get good at this you can change a birf in a 1/2 hour.
or a third member pretty fast.

derek

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Re: Putting in 5.29s....so how do you put them in.
« Reply #5 on: Sep 11, 2004, 06:14:49 PM »
so if your just swapping thirds can you leave the dials and clip in place and just pull the steer arm and lower cap???
AR-TTORA founder 22R bored.060,LCE stage II race cam http://pure-gas.org/    32/36weber, :driving: Marlin 1200 NON ceramic clutch, L52SHD+dualcase #2919, cable-locker, Yukon 5.29 gears, 35's, Allpro ebrake, front springs, and high steer, F150rears    RIP Nitro 9-29-07 :(  I sure miss him :down: MarlinCrawlerInc IS NOT affiliated with TrailGear in any way

DontStall Rockcrwl

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Re: Putting in 5.29s....so how do you put them in.
« Reply #6 on: Sep 12, 2004, 10:04:23 PM »
in order to pull the third out the inner axles must be pulled out completly. both sides. then unbolt the third and pull the sucker off
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derek

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Re: Putting in 5.29s....so how do you put them in.
« Reply #7 on: Sep 13, 2004, 08:32:04 AM »
the problem is the birfs have flat spots you have to line up to pull them.
if they are still attached to the knuckle it makes it hard to rotate them to line up the flat spots.
it is possible, but a real pita.

derek

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Re: Putting in 5.29s....so how do you put them in.
« Reply #8 on: Sep 14, 2004, 12:24:46 AM »
and no you don't have to remove the axels completely you just have to pull them out enough to clear the third member. but if you don't remove them completely you run the rick of damaging the inner axel seals by allowing the axels weight to rest on the sealing edge. and once you have the knuckle off to sldie the axel out all the way is simple enough. just remember to support it's weight watch how you pull it out so you don't damage the inner axel seal.

if you don't remove the clips it is hard to do since your brake lines and all are still attached and makes it dificult to get it lined all up to get it out, just do like mentioned above and it will be easy for you. the cone washers on the arms might give you a little trouble but you can just tap on the arm and it will pop out. I've now done it both ways and the way mentioned above is so much easier to deal with. put the caps in the free position, pull the caps, pull the clips, remove the bolts from the felt seals on the back of the knuckles, loosen knuckle studs, remove arm, lift and rotate knuckle and slide it off, if brake lines are too short remove the calipers. take some wire or a bungee cord and tie it up so it isn't hanging on the brake lines. rotate the flats of the birfield joints up and slide them out. remove exchange third, this is a good time to replace inner axel seals too and for the cost it's worth it. but depending on when they were last replaced it's up to you. mine cost 6$ a pc.

it's also a good time to check the knuckle wiper seals too for damage. this would also be a good time to martack the axels and remove the inner clips inside the bells of the birfields if you done this already or don't know how to do this. go to pirate and do a search www.pirate4x4.com/forum go to the bulliten board. but it's named the martack for a reason someone here can give you details. I just threw mine through the frame tube above the rear tires and broke the inner clips. and followed the instructions from there. was easy and now if or when I break a birf it will be easier to change.

gr8 post derek
too much spent to go slow
too much spent to stay low
too much spent on the go
but it's fun you know

 
 
 
 
 

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