Author Topic: Square tube drive shafts? (Read 5235 times)

H8PVMNT · « **on:** Aug 28, 2008, 08:57:26 PM »

Ahybody have a link or some pics of a square tube drive shaft fab? I want to make them for the superbeater...

46&2 · « **Reply #1 on:** Aug 28, 2008, 09:01:32 PM »

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90517

I have run a square front drive shaft for almost 3 years, up to speeds of 50 mph (snow). Really they are ideal for any rig, I couldnt justify hundreds for a custom front drive shaft when I could make my own for less than $100 that will be way stronger anyway.

These are the only pics I have of mine:

H8PVMNT · « **Reply #2 on:** Aug 28, 2008, 09:16:13 PM »

How do you grease them? Do you have a grease fitting on the slip or do you just slather the grease in there?

46&2 · « **Reply #3 on:** Aug 28, 2008, 09:38:49 PM »

Quote from: H8PVMNT on Aug 28, 2008, 09:16:13 PM

How do you grease them? Do you have a grease fitting on the slip or do you just slather the grease in there?

I just pull the "slip" out occasionally and rub some grease on there.

RTA · « **Reply #4 on:** Aug 29, 2008, 05:55:35 AM »

Drill out, screw in zerk fitting.

joey0712 · « **Reply #5 on:** Aug 29, 2008, 09:01:03 AM »

I just wipe a little on it whenever i have it apart. They are the best "rock crawler" front shaft. Thats just my

All_Set · « **Reply #6 on:** Aug 29, 2008, 09:08:48 AM »

Even on my "high dollar" shaft, the zerk is almost useless, and I greese it by hand when I have the shaft apart.

jrock · « **Reply #7 on:** Aug 29, 2008, 10:13:04 AM »

Thank you for that fortysixandtwo.

46&2 · « **Reply #8 on:** Aug 29, 2008, 01:42:18 PM »

Quote from: jkief86 on Aug 29, 2008, 10:13:04 AM

Thank you for that fortysixandtwo.

No problem

H8PVMNT · « **Reply #9 on:** Aug 29, 2008, 02:39:17 PM »

So it looks like you are using 2" X .25 wall for the outer tube and 1.5" x .25 wall for the inner slip peice is that right?

RTA · « **Reply #10 on:** Aug 29, 2008, 04:45:57 PM »

Here is another good write up...http://runandplaymotorsports.com/working_on_the_little_gray_truck.htm

jrock · « **Reply #11 on:** Aug 29, 2008, 10:00:02 PM »

Quote from: H8PVMNT on Aug 29, 2008, 02:39:17 PM

So it looks like you are using 2" X .25 wall for the outer tube and 1.5" x .25 wall for the inner slip peice is that right?

That's what I read. That's what I will be doing.

TRACKER · « **Reply #12 on:** Aug 30, 2008, 10:54:48 PM »

minisimp on here have a pretty good write up. i copied his when i did mine

BLACKDOG · « **Reply #13 on:** Aug 31, 2008, 03:02:22 PM »

Quote from: TRACKER on Aug 30, 2008, 10:54:48 PM

minisimp on here have a pretty good write up. i copied his when i did mine

Quote from: RTA on Aug 29, 2008, 05:55:35 AM

Drill out, screw in zerk fitting.

yup, works great until Zerk fitting meets rock

jrock · « **Reply #14 on:** Aug 31, 2008, 04:58:17 PM »

Is there a way to best "balance" a square DS?

BLACKDOG · « **Reply #15 on:** Aug 31, 2008, 05:56:47 PM »

Quote from: jkief86 on Aug 31, 2008, 04:58:17 PM

Is there a way to best "balance" a square DS?

Read Minisimps build up. Basically, you want to make it all as square as possible. You want to square the yoke to the tube when you weld it on, so the ears are exactly inline with 2 of the sides. You also want to make sure the yoke is square in the tube, meaning the tube and the yoke are on the same plane, on all 4 sides. It takes some carefuly grinding and measuring, but it really isn't that hard. I've had mine up to 65 with minimal vibes, under power no vibes, coasting is where they come into play, and as mentioned, they're minimal. been very happy with how well it turned out.

jrock · « **Reply #16 on:** Aug 31, 2008, 06:03:35 PM »

65!? That's the highest I've heard of yet.
Thanks.

http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=14915.0

Steve_925 · « **Reply #17 on:** Aug 31, 2008, 07:58:57 PM »

Quote from: H8PVMNT on Aug 29, 2008, 02:39:17 PM

So it looks like you are using 2" X .25 wall for the outer tube and 1.5" x .25 wall for the inner slip peice is that right?

correct me if im wrong but shouldnt it be 2x2"x1/4" and reciever(2"x2" i.d.) thats what i used atleast

papasmurf · « **Reply #18 on:** Sep 01, 2008, 07:41:32 PM »

Still not sure if it was a good idea or not but on my square shaft, I capped the inner tube and tapped a zerk next to the ujoint. I drilled multiple small (1\8") holes along the 4 sides of the inner tube. The inner tube gets filled with grease and greases the slip evenly. It works great although it does add extra weight and probably vibration to the shaft but I will never be using it on the road. Just thought I'd throw that out there!

printthis · « **Reply #19 on:** Sep 03, 2008, 09:13:09 PM »

What i did and it has worked very well. Receiver tube and some 2" OD 3/16 wall stock. Each end will fit over the stock spines and center the tubing. In the middle of the overlay drill 1/8 " hole in the outer tube then counter sink the 4 holes one on each side and use a rubber tip on your grease gun and fill it up. Should be good up to 45 mph. Good luck

Yota Up · « **Reply #20 on:** Sep 22, 2008, 12:39:22 PM »

Quote from: H8PVMNT on Aug 29, 2008, 02:39:17 PM

So it looks like you are using 2" X .25 wall for the outer tube and 1.5" x .25 wall for the inner slip peice is that right?

Big piece(reciever) = 2.5" O.D./2" I.D. x .25" wall.
Little piece(giver:D) = 2" O.D./1.5" I.D. x .25" wall.

Picture story "for dummies" follows:

Driveshaft, tubing, and a big griding wheel.

Make sure when you cut that the shortest your driveshaft can get is not shorter than original to ensure it won't slam the Tcase.
Cutting done.

Big to big, little to little.

I tried to leave as much metal as possible to fit perfect to the square.

This made the griding wheel go from big to small.

Welded, painted, and set out of dry.

Complete, plenty of travel, and at it's shortest - it is not shorter than the stock version.

H8PVMNT [OP]

H8PVMNT [OP]

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