Welded Diff??

[caldwell636]

Ok I am wanting to weld up the rear ... can anybody get me some pics?? I know what to weld just would like to get an idea before I tear into it
I want to do a good job so I don't have to re-do it later down the road!! Also any suggestions would be helpful!!

Thanks

[boggerunner]

a full spool is only $150, but ive gone the lincoln locker for 3 yrs and never had a problem with them, what kind of welder are u using?
just weld all the gears to each other, and to the carrier, and to the center pin, but do it in small stageg so u dont get the carrier too hot, or it will ruin your bearings and warp the carrier

[79coyotefrg]

i hope your not gonna  be daily driving it 

[boggerunner]

i used to dd mine, they are light enough

[twistedtoy92]

i love my lincoln locker!!! LOL! i blew the spiders out so instead of scrappin it i meshed them up where there were a few teeth left and went through 4 beads on each meshing point after each one cooled of course with an old school lincoln using 6011 rod....... i've burned rubber with 35's on pavement!!!! NO PROBLEMS!!!!

[caldwell636]

I have access to mig or stick welders?? In your alls opinions which is better??

[twistedtoy92]

arc is a deeper stronger weld than mig...... in my opinion but either one works!!! from personal experience the arc/stick welds hold up incrediblely well!!!!!! weld er up!!!!!

[Angler]

I dd my lincoln locked 84 PU, I dont really know the difference, I love it offroad!

[caldwell636]

Yeah I figured I would stick weld it since they penetrate deeper into the metal. Thanks

[twistedtoy92]

yeah definately, my 84 has 35's that i run 12psi everywhere i go and it hoppps reallllll bad when i take corners.....chirp.....chirp......chirp!!!  but i dont mind, its only on the road to get to the trails and other short runs, just dont weld your front unless you dont like to turn very sharp!!!! selectable or automatic lockers are a necessity in the front!!! everyone needs to learn how do drive something with true POSI!!!

[SHSTL_82]

im welded as well..aussie up front...and i drive it on the streets a few days a week and its fun....chriping on every slow corner...

its well worth it...been wheeling mine for over two years with the welded and no problems...im ruing 35's as well.

[94MtnYote]

   stick welding is gonna leave a fair amount of slag to clean out which could be a pain, but it sure will hold it together!

[Angler]

I used a 110 wire welder and beat the living piss out of mine, clutch drops at 4000 rpm, screaming around trying to blow up the motor and she has held no problem, dont let the web wheeling nah sayers ddiscourage you, use what ya got and wheel that mother fu@#er!!!!

[twistedtoy92]

I used a 110 wire welder and beat the living piss out of mine, clutch drops at 4000 rpm, screaming around trying to blow up the motor and she has held no problem, dont let the web wheeling nah sayers ddiscourage you, use what ya got and wheel that mother fu@#er!!!!

floppin' A!!!!! if you weld it right you will split the carrier in half before you break the spiders/weld!!!! WELD IT AND WHEEL THAT pregnant dog!!

[Hammerhead]

I mig'd mine in my V8 powered FJ40 so that I wouldn't have as much cleanup to do afterwards.  I used anti-spatter spray all over it to further aid in cleanup then spent plenty of time to make sure I got all the trash out.  All it takes is a weld berry in the ring & pinion and you'll trash 'em.  

I beat mine pretty good and can even do donuts on asphalt with 38.5s.  Just today I got a little wheelie out of it climbing out of a mudhole onto a big slab of slickrock.  I've been abusing it for 4 or 5 years.  

Weld it with whatever you have access to and wheel the crap out of it.

[Stinky]

well here she goes.....

1.  pull the third out
2.  pull the carrier out
3.  pop the ring gear off
4.  brake clean the piss out of the carrier(you want all the gear oil and
     any oils OUT of the metal)....see if you can find someone with an old oven, n leave the pregnant dog in
     there for an hour or so at like 400, that'll boil the oil out of the pores
5.  then use a 1/8" E7018 stick rod(you wanna use this rod cuz it has a substantial amount of nickel
     in it)...or if you can get nickel rods off someone or even buy em, run around 80-95 amps
     you'll want a rod high in nickel, since the carrier is cast
6.  then while its still hot(gotta weld cast while its pre-heated), just weld the spiders to the carrier,
     and weld the spiders to the center pin... and since your re-heating the center pin(which is
     already heat-treated, you will want to cut some piece of 1/4" plate to fit in the little windows
     on the sides of the carrier to tie the sides of the carrier together(in case the carrier were to
     crack, the plate will keep it together.
7.  just make sure you keep everything hot while you weld on it, try and control the heat in the
    carrier too, cuz if it gets too hot then it'l warp the ring gear mounting surface, then once your
    done welding it, keep it some where it'll stay warm for a while and
    that it takes a good 3-4 hours to cool down.... cuz if it cools off to fast, you'll have a load
    of subsurface cracks inside the cast, then when she gets torqued hard enough,boom!!
8.  once its cooled off completely, you might have to do some clean-up so the ring gear will fit back
     on....

not alot of people take their time when welding diffs, but if it's your only vehicle, that you drive
everyday, then do it right the first time.... then have fun destroying tires!!!  haha, you'll get annoyed
after a while of it CONSTANTLY scrubbing, around EVERY corner.... and parking lots on warm days, haha,
prepare for a ton of people watching you park.... cuz your gonna be squeelin allllllll the time....


Some people may disagree with the ring gear removal, but its a whole hell of a lot easier to clean the spatter out of it when the ring gear is off.... and also spatter hitting the teeth on the ring gear will cause tiny stress fractures in the already heat-treated metal... might not sound like much, but after a while, it could cause a failure

ENJOY!! Thumbs Up

[twistedtoy92]

very nice!!! i blew a few teeth off of the spiders wheelin my 92 hard so i pulled it out swapped in another good one then took other one a used a good old lincoln, pressure washed it the solvent then pressure again (HOT WATER WARMS IT UPNICELY) blew it out with a compressor, watch the pinion seal, then meshed the good teeth on the shity spiders and laid a bead at each connected point of the gears, let it cool a little in between, and put 4 beads (double X's) at each spot, let it cool for an hour, poured some oil on it, then pressure wash check for slag, good to go through some oil in the ring turn her over a few times to check out how it feels.... slap it back in, i've wheeled the living out of it and she 's still holdin up well!!

[bluetoy84]

X2 on removing the ring gear. Nice writeup Stinky. I totally agree.

I've welded a TON of toyota thirds, and I always remove the ring gear and carrier bearings. You don't want to get slag in the bearings, or get them too hot. I know people weld them up assembled all the time, but it's not any more trouble to tear it down than it is to clean out slag with it assembled.

Take the time to do it right and you'll never have to do it again.

[Hammerhead]

I agree on removing ring gear and carrier bearings. Makes the job easier...

[cederrowe]

Want to weld my rear the right way. I don't build my diffs, so I don't set the backlash. If I remove the carriar and remove the ring gear can I just slap it back together after welding or do I have to reset the backlash? Thanks.

[Duffil]

yes you have to reset backlash. where are you located, i'm sure someone local would help you out.

[cederrowe]

yes you have to reset backlash. where are you located, i'm sure someone local would help you out.

Portland, Oregon

[twistedtoy92]

as long as you keep the spacers on the same sides then you shouldnt have to reset your backlash unless you totally remove the pinion

[Duffil]

as long as you keep the spacers on the same sides then you shouldnt have to reset your backlash unless you totally remove the pinion

there are no spacers in a toy axle. It is a screw adjuster.

[bluetoy84]

Here's a few pics of how I weld them. Both side gears to the carrier with a 1/8" 7018 two passes.

[TheCookieMonster]

you can either weld the gears to the carrier cast itself, or you can weld all the individual gears together. i welded at the four corners where the spider gears engage each other. then i cut out a 1/4 plate that fit in between all the gears and welded it in also. make sure to use anti-spatter spray if your welding the gears while the diff. is assembled. spray down everything besides right where your welding, coat the ring and pinion with a couple coats. also clean everything very well afterward to get the slag and spatter out. i used a MIG welder to do both front and rear diffs. never had a problem at all yet ....rears been welded for probably 2 1/2 years, and the front was welded about 6-7 trips ago 6 months or so.

[twistedtoy92]

there are no spacers in a toy axle. It is a screw adjuster.

shims are used on the pinions and last time i checked that is considered a spacer

[Duffil]

shims are used on the pinions and last time i checked that is considered a spacer

you don't remove the pinion to weld the carrier. What you posted wasn't relevant to the question. You DO have to reset backlash on a toy axle after removing the carrier because it is a screw adjuster.

[bluetoy84]

Leave the locking clamp on the right side adjuster and pull the adjuster with it still attached to the cap. Take the left side adjuster all the way apart. Tear it down and weld it. When you put it back together be really carful to line the right side cap and adjuster back up on the threads, then you can tighten the left side adjuster down against it and your backlash will remain the same as it was before. You follow me?

[toyotanner]

i'm in portland oregon also i can help you weld up your 3rd member if you needed help.... but i dont know how to reset backlash. all i do is weld it up and clean out all the splatter or slag. i have welded 3 3rd members and none have had problems.