Topic: Chevy 350-Toyota trans-dual cases=?

[I.D.G.A.F]

I know WTF am I think why replace the tried and true holy 22R with a 350?  Well I have a crate motor in one of my old projects that I'm getting rid of and the motor needs a home.  Just so happens I blow my head gasket on the Yoda and instead of shaving the head, new water pump,port polish,cam and timing chain why not swap.  The 350 has less than 5,000 miles on it and  "advance adapters" wants $455 for the adapter.  So is it a bad idea, will it just over power the drive train,axles,stock gears ?

[93tonkatoy]

If your 350 is stock, the toy gear will hold up well. If you are quick to smash the skinny pedal, it will end up letting you down. The gearing in your diffs will need to be dropped WAY down, or you will wear the engine out. 350's are happiest around 2000 to 2500 rpm, so gear down to where your hwy/cruising speed is in that range, and you'll be good. The added rotating mass of the engine will be your enemy if you lift a tire and drop it back down under high rev's. (axles and birf's) The added weight of the engine will also drop the front suspension 1 - 1 1/2 inches, and will bottom the springs out quicker. You will need to increase the front spring rate to compensate for this (add an extra leaf or two - long leaves). The exhaust manifolds or headers will make a tight fit between the frame rails, but will fit. You may want to consider getting the SHORT water pump, and moving the drivetrain forward, for the distributor to clear the firewall, or grab the BFH and clearance the firewall. A 4-core radiator will probably be needed to take care of heat, and I would reccommend a electric pusher fan for it. I see you are already running a carb, so you know the carb issues, but would reccommend at least the basic TBI setup for it. You will also have to consider the oil pan/axle interference.

With the proper setup, the added power makes it a very attractive swap. 350's are pretty durable, just don't overheat them. Parts are plentiful and available everywhere, and they are pretty easy to work on. I have considered the same swap, and have done a lot of research on it. If you go that route, definitely keep a build thread! Hope some of this helps!

[little eric]

DO IT:)

[I.D.G.A.F [OP]]

thanks for all your input the motor is fairly stock and I have a Griffin 4 core radiator.  I was just wondering about all the extra torque add to the dual cases.

[93tonkatoy]

As far as the dual cases go, they should hold up well. I would make sure I added a chain or other positive attachment to the engine mounts to help spread the added torque to more than just the rubber mounts. I assume you have a dual mount crossmember under the gearboxes, or the FROR rear crossmember? with the 4cyl or the v-8, that torque has to be transmitted to the frame somewhere, and the additional force from the v-8 will make it more important where and how it's transferred. If you have 4.7's in one of the gearboxes, it will be even more critical. But, the real weak link will still be the birfs. You should be breaking those long before you pull the drivetrain loose or break it.