NEED CLUTCH HELP NOW! IT WORKS!!!!

Started by BLUCRUZ, June 13, 2004, 06:41:54 PM

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BLUCRUZ

Just put in new motor & cluch/flywheel. Engine runs great but I can't put the rig in gear cause the clutch wont disengage far enough. I bled the :pokinit: out of it and still only feel preasure about 1/2 way down on the pedal. The Slave cyinder is only moving about 3/4 of an inch. Should't it be more like 1 or 1-1/4"? I need to move this thing tonight!-Help

It's a 85 4runner and the clutch is a luk from Marlin
72 FJ40. 350 Multiport EFI, turbo 400, ORION T-case, 35 Procomp's  disk brakes front & rear, ARB's F&R and an onboard shower for the ladies!
86 sr-5 4runner SAS conversion. E-lockers F&R, 5.29's 4.7 Marlin case.

brainlessfool

sounds like you mite have a bad master :twocents:
A good day working, that's just sick :reg:

BLUCRUZ

It was fine before tear down. I only put a new clutch in it because I was going to have the engine out. I never diconnected the slave and no fluid loss either. I'm pissed, it's like the clutch is shorter or something even though I know it's not ???
72 FJ40. 350 Multiport EFI, turbo 400, ORION T-case, 35 Procomp's  disk brakes front & rear, ARB's F&R and an onboard shower for the ladies!
86 sr-5 4runner SAS conversion. E-lockers F&R, 5.29's 4.7 Marlin case.

Prismo

#3
Did you adjust the pedal free play? You may have to adjust the rod inside the master cylinder if you have freeplay. I have also seen slave cylinders have an adjustable rod.
Retired Great White Turtle Hunter
Originally posted by fortysixandtwo – sheesh, you should see the transvestites i sell ammo to sometimes

BLUCRUZ

Quote from: prism on June 13, 2004, 07:56:58 PM
Did you adjust the pedal free play? You may have to adjust the rod inside the master cylinder if you have freeplay. I have also seen slave cylinders have an adjustable rod.

Yea, it's almost all the way out now. Is the pivot rod in the bell housing adjustable? I pulled the rubber around the fork rod and it looks like the throwout bearing is about an 1/2 inch from the presure plate?
72 FJ40. 350 Multiport EFI, turbo 400, ORION T-case, 35 Procomp's  disk brakes front & rear, ARB's F&R and an onboard shower for the ladies!
86 sr-5 4runner SAS conversion. E-lockers F&R, 5.29's 4.7 Marlin case.

Prismo

#5
As I recall it is not adjustable. Seem to remember it is just a threaded post, but I could be wrong. Sounds screwy somehow with the problems you are having.
Retired Great White Turtle Hunter
Originally posted by fortysixandtwo – sheesh, you should see the transvestites i sell ammo to sometimes

BLUCRUZ

Quote from: prism on June 13, 2004, 09:05:54 PM
As I recall it is not adjustable. Seem to remember it is just a threaded post, but I could be wrong. Sounds screwy somehow with the problems you are having.

Tell me about it, I've never had this much trouble with a clutch, I've tried everyting I know-I am going to put in a new slave since they're cheap and see if that helps-I'm just not getting enough swing on the fork rod????
72 FJ40. 350 Multiport EFI, turbo 400, ORION T-case, 35 Procomp's  disk brakes front & rear, ARB's F&R and an onboard shower for the ladies!
86 sr-5 4runner SAS conversion. E-lockers F&R, 5.29's 4.7 Marlin case.

Prismo

I just went & measured the amount of movement in my slave when depressing the pedal. It is very close to 3/4" on mine also. Was the throwout bearing the same as the old one? It almost sounds like the diaphram springs don't stick out as much as the old one.
Retired Great White Turtle Hunter
Originally posted by fortysixandtwo – sheesh, you should see the transvestites i sell ammo to sometimes

BLUCRUZ

Quote from: prism on June 13, 2004, 09:15:27 PM
I just went & measured the amount of movement in my slave when depressing the pedal. It is very close to 3/4" on mine also. Was the throwout bearing the same as the old one? It almost sounds like the diaphram springs don't stick out as much as the old one.

Not exact but it was the same thickness-by the way the old clutch was a luk as well just not the heavy duty one. It's close, I mean if it will move another 1/8 inch it will disengage.
72 FJ40. 350 Multiport EFI, turbo 400, ORION T-case, 35 Procomp's  disk brakes front & rear, ARB's F&R and an onboard shower for the ladies!
86 sr-5 4runner SAS conversion. E-lockers F&R, 5.29's 4.7 Marlin case.

Prismo

I am out of ideas. it will probably be something simple that we didn't think of. :smack:
Retired Great White Turtle Hunter
Originally posted by fortysixandtwo – sheesh, you should see the transvestites i sell ammo to sometimes

WHITE_TRASH

I did a clutch job in highschool on a datsun car and had the exact same problem.  It was weird I replaced the whole assembly with another one, same brand and everything andit did the same thing as yours.  I never opened the hydrolic system or anything but it just didnt have enough travel after the clutch job.  I ended up using a long 3/8th's bolt with the head and threads cut off and made myself a new slave to fork rod.  Hope this helps I know these things can be mind boggling.
Full hydro, 186:1 with an auto and 44's what could go wrong??

BigMike

Well was your flywheel surfaced correctly? If it was surfaced more than about 28 thou then the disk would never disengage


QuoteSlave cyinder is only moving about 3/4 of an inch

That sounds right. It doesnt take much for the piviot. If someone else could check their's that would be helpful :wave:
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Prismo

I checked mine, it was right at 3/4.
Retired Great White Turtle Hunter
Originally posted by fortysixandtwo – sheesh, you should see the transvestites i sell ammo to sometimes

BLUCRUZ

Quote from: BigMike on June 14, 2004, 11:00:13 AM
Well was your flywheel surfaced correctly? If it was surfaced more than about 28 thou then the disk would never disengage


QuoteSlave cyinder is only moving about 3/4 of an inch

That sounds right. It doesnt take much for the piviot. If someone else could check their's that would be helpful :wave:

Brand new flywheel, I'm going to try making a new rod for the slave. Mike I bought this from you guys about 2 weeks ago and it's been in the rig since then, just now got around to finishing up the new engine- Have you guy's ever had this happen before?
72 FJ40. 350 Multiport EFI, turbo 400, ORION T-case, 35 Procomp's  disk brakes front & rear, ARB's F&R and an onboard shower for the ladies!
86 sr-5 4runner SAS conversion. E-lockers F&R, 5.29's 4.7 Marlin case.

BLUCRUZ

It's soo close! I actually drove it out of the driveway a few minutes ago, but it's still not right, I'm going to try a bolt/rod that is 1/16 of an inch longer and see what happens.
72 FJ40. 350 Multiport EFI, turbo 400, ORION T-case, 35 Procomp's  disk brakes front & rear, ARB's F&R and an onboard shower for the ladies!
86 sr-5 4runner SAS conversion. E-lockers F&R, 5.29's 4.7 Marlin case.

Prismo

Retired Great White Turtle Hunter
Originally posted by fortysixandtwo – sheesh, you should see the transvestites i sell ammo to sometimes

BLUCRUZ

My clutch pedal is about a inch higher than my brake pedal inside and sucks cause I'm 6'3". I forgot about about the stopper inside that allowed my pedal to move back towards the seat more :conf: I couldnt see it cause of the heater duct.  I thought I had adjusted it out as far as I could before but i got another 4 turns on the M/C rod before it fell out. It's driveable now. I'm still not happy with it but i'll give it a couple days and tinker with it more.
72 FJ40. 350 Multiport EFI, turbo 400, ORION T-case, 35 Procomp's  disk brakes front & rear, ARB's F&R and an onboard shower for the ladies!
86 sr-5 4runner SAS conversion. E-lockers F&R, 5.29's 4.7 Marlin case.

79coyotefrg

i have marlins 1200 clutch and a .050 turned flywheel,with of course a .050 shim behind the flywheel  :driving: i have the adjustable slave rod and had to extend it  to the very end befor i could drive it,  it looked to me that the disc was  thicker on marlins , than on the stock clutch,  but i was able to drive it,  its been driven hard for a year now :driving: and i h avent had any problems other than tires spinning  on pavement :love:
AR-TTORA founder 22R bored.060,LCE stage II race cam http://pure-gas.org/    32/36weber, :driving: Marlin 1200 NON ceramic clutch, L52SHD+dualcase #2919, cable-locker, Yukon 5.29 gears, 35's, Allpro ebrake, front springs, and high steer, F150rears    RIP Nitro 9-29-07 :(  I sure miss him :down: MarlinCrawlerInc IS NOT affiliated with TrailGear in any way

BigMike

Quote from: Glen on June 15, 2004, 07:06:17 AM
it looked to me that the disc was  thicker on marlins , than on the stock clutch

I believe this is true. I've never measured the two, but our clutch disks look incrediable beefy compared to a stock clutch disk so I wouldn't be suprised. But, the disk and pressure plate are a matched set. They are built within specs for each other. In fact, the Toy manual says to surface the flywheel 0.020" but surfaces his flywheels to about 0.026" or so and his clutches still work. The friction point is wwaayy at the bottom which means you will get a full life outta the clutch disk. So if we can get them to work at 0.026" then it of course will work at 0.020" which is stock specs.

Regards,
BigMike
Check out our new Rock Crawling Videos!
2016 56-speed 580:1 Tacoma Rock Crawler   
1981 36-speed 511:1 3RZ-FE Rock Crawler
1987 6-speed Supercharged 4A-GZE MR2
Instagram: @SlowestTacoma
Things are only impossible until they are not.
"The worst of both worlds, the best of neither." -abnormaltoy
"An informed question. But difficult to answer. I am what you see." -Nanaki

BLUCRUZ

ADJUSTED A BIT MORE AND HOLY SNAPPING TURTLE BATMAN!  WORKING GOOD! THANKS ALL :biggthumpup: :driving:
72 FJ40. 350 Multiport EFI, turbo 400, ORION T-case, 35 Procomp's  disk brakes front & rear, ARB's F&R and an onboard shower for the ladies!
86 sr-5 4runner SAS conversion. E-lockers F&R, 5.29's 4.7 Marlin case.

WHITE_TRASH

Glad to hear it!  I hate those kinda problems.
Full hydro, 186:1 with an auto and 44's what could go wrong??