Topic: 22r tune up, need help

[Gary Briggs]

i have an 85 with a 22r, 20000 miles on a rebuilt, bought it over a year ago with the intentions of just makin an offroad only rig, since i rolled my tacoma it is gonna have to be my daily driver for awhile so i need to do a tune up, this truck has for the most part been sitting for 3 years, its starts up fine, lil bit of a rough idle at first, it is completly gutless until it hits about 1800-2000 rpm's and even then the accelaration is less than stellar, i have 4.88's with 31" tires so the gearing i dont think is a problem, i feel it should have a bit more pep, despite being a sub 100 hp motor, i am new to the 22r motor so my question is, other than the carb tune up, what else might i need to replace and or tune up, things that are common to this paticular motor i should look for? any help would be greatly appreciated?

[Gary Briggs [OP]]

oh ya, im new, what the hell is a turtle point?

[Homefries]

What I did to mine when I first bought it was change all the fluids ie. oil, trans, diffs, radiator etc..  I also changed the plugs, wires, filters & belts.  I even took off the carb and cleaned it out.  Also be sure to check your timing.  Since doing all of this my truck has run good with lots of power, I go uphill in 4th about 55-60.  I run 33's w/ stock gearing, chevy rears and RUF.  Good luck

[Homefries]

Oh yah about the turtle points.  Whenever you were surfing around a little  would run on by and you had to click on it.  It would either give you points or take them away.  Now they are there to just have fun with.  You give a point for some good info or something cool or take points for being a retard or something like that. 

By the way  to 

[DeadlyPeace]

First off  2  land

What I did to mine when I first bought it was change all the fluids ie. oil, trans, diffs, radiator etc..  I also changed the plugs, wires, filters & belts.  I even took off the carb and cleaned it out.  Also be sure to check your timing.

X2. Make sure to use Toyota (or high performance) plug wires, cap, and rotor. Aftermarket ones from your average auto part store don't work as good as standard Toyota ones.

[Gary Briggs [OP]]

ive always used napa parts on my other vehicles, seems felt it was better quality stuff, but i should still go with toyota stuff?

[Homefries]

I would definentaly go with Toyota parts but that's just my  .  I have gone with napa, autozone and kragens parts and they don't seem to last as long as what you would pick up at Toyota.  There is a couple of people on here that have friends or they themselves who work at a dealership that can get you a discount on parts.  Just do a search for parts and something should come up.  I'll try to post some up for you when I find them.

[Gary Briggs [OP]]

i will go to the "stealership" then, i know toyota parts are very high quality, but ive never had a problem with napa, cant say the same for autozon and kragen, is it wise to get a slightly hotter plug than stock?

[Fearofrunner]

i will go to the "stealership" then, i know toyota parts are very high quality, but ive never had a problem with napa, cant say the same for autozon and kragen, is it wise to get a slightly hotter plug than stock?

If your running on the rich side some hotter plugs and some air intake and exhaust mods would help to lean it out but since this is just a get you by truck till your other ones fixed or replaced just put the standard (NGK only) plugs that the truck calls for and gap appropriately

[79coyotefrg]

i use  the splitfire plugs  and they work very nice  , for me anyway

best thing you can do  is help it breath,  clean air filter  and a  2 1/4 inch exhaust,  get rid of the  pencil tube stock exhaust

and let it rev,   take it up to 3500-3600  befor you shift

you'll get better mileage this way,  yes  i said better

[84pickup]

my truck was kind of like that when i got it. it wasn't quite as bad as you described it but it was still pretty slow. then someone who we let borrow the truck burned the valves and we had to get a head job. they ended up heat treating and milling off quite a bit of the head because of warping and i put new rings on so i essentially had a new head and new rings and i think i've got more power than stock because i'm definetly not slow anymore. 0-60 in probably 7 or 8 seconds. now 45 - 70 that's another story, i just don't have the right gearing to do that very fast. i've been thinking about a cam, header, carb stuff like that but i don't have money so i'll have to wait.

[DeadlyPeace]

i use  the splitfire plugs  and they work very nice  , for me anyway

I heard that Spitfire (the company) say their plugs are not recemended for imports unless this has changed.

[Gary Briggs [OP]]

i fully plan on doing carb/exhaust , 38mm weber and header and perhaps a 22/r20r hybrid, i was astonished when i first got the truck and saw the lil bitty exhaust, didnt know the came that small

[Gary Briggs [OP]]

modesto toyota wanted 76 dollars for stock replacemnt plug wires, does this seem hi to any1 else?

[84pickup]

yes and no. it's only 4 wires they shouldn't be THAT expensive. but then again it is toyota. i have a friend whos dad was trying to help me find a part for my truck that i'm not going to and don't need to any more. but he was saying that at the most it would be 30 to 50 dollars but i'm pretty sure that if i could have gotten it, it would have been from toyota and would have A LOT of money. and it's only a little hub gear. hell a signal generator for my distributor was 150 dollars and my coil was almost 2X that much i think.

[79coyotefrg]

I heard that Spitfire (the company) say their plugs are not recemended for imports unless this has changed.

never heard that, all i know is  they produce  noticeable power over  stock NGK's

[Gary Briggs [OP]]

i ended up going with ngk plugs, napa premium 7mm wires, and they're highest quality cap & rotor, with the 2 fan belts(also upgraded to the best they have) and a chilton manual was 112$, the same parts at toyota was 177 without any type of manual, on a side note, the chilton manual has lil to no real info other than torque specs and perhaps a few- ok at best wiring diagrams. i have been using napa parts since i bought my first car at 15, have never had one problem with any of their parts, it is my personal opinion that they are far better quality than kragen and autozone, i  cant see the factory toyota parts being that much better, and in no way could i justify the vast difference in cost!

[KDXSR5]

Yea, Toyota and NAPA are the only two places in town I will go to for parts. I don't trust the other stores. Glad you got the stuff you wanted!

[Gary Briggs [OP]]

i was under the impression that the carb was in need of a serious tune up, and the plugs might be a problem, plugs looked great, replaced them anyways with the ngk's, put on the new wire's cap and rotor, no difference! got out the timing light and it was set at 1* past TDC. the sticker under the hood say to set timing at 0* at 950 rpm's with the vacuum advance caped off, this setting made lil to no difference in the way it ran. through trial and error i found the truck runs best set at 8* BTDC, it was like a whole different truck at this setting feels like i have 10 to 15% more power! i ended up not even messing with the carb because it feels so much better!

[KDXSR5]

What altitude are you at? Depending on your altitude you will have to adjust your timing one degree for how ever many feet, I don't remember right now. Glad you got it to where you are happy! I am sure the carb could use a good cleaning and rebuild, especially if it has yet to be touched.

[Gary Briggs [OP]]

im at sea level, 8* BTDC seems to be perfect, perhaps i will screw with the carb this weekend, but im not confident with what i read in the turd manual, and ive yet to find a factory manual via the internet! so any tricks i need to know with regards to carb tuning? the carb was rebuilt with the motor so it should be fairly fresh, i will be gettin a weber 32/36 soon so im not going to rebuild it no matter what

[jimbo74]

ive yet to find a factory manual via the internet!

www.ncttora.com

[79coyotefrg]

im at sea level, 8* BTDC seems to be perfect, perhaps i will screw with the carb this weekend, but im not confident with what i read in the turd manual, and ive yet to find a factory manual via the internet! so any tricks i need to know with regards to carb tuning? the carb was rebuilt with the motor so it should be fairly fresh, i will be gettin a weber 32/36 soon so im not going to rebuild it no matter what

8*   is  what  mymanual says  and  what is best

32/36 is what i run,  you'll love it

why cant you get to  50-70 ??  dont shift  till you get your speed up, its not a  14L Cummins

[Gary Briggs [OP]]

now its no problem, my speedo isnt acurate but i was actually able to pass some slow driving jerk after the tune up, im trying to break myself of shifting to early, i shifted my 04 tacoma at 2250 in a atempt to save gas, i quickly relized i have to shift the lil 4banger at much higher rpm's

[KDXSR5]

I usually shift between 3500-4000 rpm, sometimes higher if going up a really long grade.

[Gary Briggs [OP]]

probally where i shift now, hard to tell with no tach, reminds me of my 67 bug in that you cant lug it gotta wind her up a bit, the 32/36 weber is smog legal correct?

[79coyotefrg]

probally where i shift now, hard to tell with no tach, reminds me of my 67 bug in that you cant lug it gotta wind her up a bit, the 32/36 weber is smog legal correct?

yes  wind it up


smog   what that ??

[Gary Briggs [OP]]

smog is a dumb ass california thing!   floppin' EPA sucks

[jimbo74]

i am not sure if the weber is smog legal, i think there is a version that is smog legal, but there may not be

[79coyotefrg]

smog is a dumb ass california thing!   floppin' EPA sucks

if it has  the CARB sticker on it  then its  legal,  you can get smog legal webers from LCEngineering