To rear disc or not rear disc, that is the question....

[Krylon]

I know this is probably an age old question, but figured I'd ask it again.  Did a search but didn't come up with much.  I am at a point where I am goign to replace the drums, brake cyl's, shoes, springs, etc on my 91 pickup...   Figured I am going to have about $130 in those parts, should I shell out the extra cash for rear discs?
This truck is mostly stock with 32's, no lift and is used as a DD... 

Any opinions?

Thanks!

[WHITE_TRASH]

Why not?  The way I look at stuff like that is if you are thinking about it you might as well do it.

[Krylon]

Why not?  The way I look at stuff like that is if you are thinking about it you might as well do it.

Originally I was all for it.  Then I see some people on POR saying how they have too much rear brakes or their pedal never felt right afterwords.  I just dont want to get into something I have to always mess with to get right.  I dont mind doing the work of swapping everything including the MC and such, but dont want to run into problems after its all done.   

You run rear discs?  What set-up are you running?  I am looking at Sky brackets and Monte calipers, then run the t-case e-brake and either an FJ80 MC or possibly the GM one from Rockstomper.

[WHITE_TRASH]

Im not running discs yet.  But I have the option of going either with caddy calipers or using an old set or yota rotors and calipers.  I think one of the major problems people are having is that they are mismatching all the parts.  When you start playing with different flow rates and flow needs on each component you are bound to run into issues with parts not working in chorus.  But if you stay with one manufacturer most of the time youll end up with a decently matched system that performs well.  Like when I go discs Ill probobly use all yota parts just because they have the correct bore m/c and calipers.

[brainlessfool]

Last year I too was thinking about what to do. After alot to looking around I whent with 90 drum brakes. (mine is a 83, small drums!) so far I am happy with how it works as my DD. did not do the rear disc. thing becouse of miss match problems and the e-brake problem. have not been sorry yeat! 

[Krylon]

Im not running discs yet.  But I have the option of going either with caddy calipers or using an old set or yota rotors and calipers.  I think one of the major problems people are having is that they are mismatching all the parts.  When you start playing with different flow rates and flow needs on each component you are bound to run into issues with parts not working in chorus.  But if you stay with one manufacturer most of the time youll end up with a decently matched system that performs well.  Like when I go discs Ill probobly use all yota parts just because they have the correct bore m/c and calipers.

10-4...  I will probably go with Sky's stuff.  I have an e-mail into them about the M/C situation and what their experiences are.  Although All-Pro is always an option, but more expensive.

[Aaronn]

I run Skys stuff with a 1" bore master and wilwood proportioning valve and residual valve ...works great...but why go through the trouble and expense on a daily driver?

[brainlessfool]

I agree with AAron, if its your DD, I don't think its worth the $ and hassle. for a DD just remember: K. I. S. S.


         

[rockhound]

I used TSM disc brake conversion. Came with all the parts, brackets, lines, etc.they use GM parts.
Bolt on. they have e-brake versions. I used All Pro's flange mounted.
Only thing I still need to do is 1 inch bore Master. Braking bias is controlled by stock 'yota brake thing on the frame. what's it called? Just played with it till I was happy. I forget but I think it's, arm up more rear, down is less.

[Prismo]

It's a proportioning valve. So far my 4-Runner brakes have been sufficient with a full load, so I will keep what I have for now.

[Krylon]

I run Skys stuff with a 1" bore master and wilwood proportioning valve and residual valve ...works great...but why go through the trouble and expense on a daily driver?

Well for now it's a DD..   But down the road it will be a wheeler once I get the cabbage for a nicer DD.   

[Paul_Elbisser]

I hate my caddy set up. The Ebrake is hard, and barely works. If i was to do it again I would go with Full Floater setup withToyota parts.

I am going to just keep the stock setup on the next truck I build

[Krylon]

For now I have decided to stick witht he stock set-up....  $130 for parts is alot nicer than $330+...     But thanks all!

[88runner]

I did it with isuzu rodeo caliper and rotor, the cylinder of the caliper seem's to be just the right size.
the 2 calipers and rotors was 250$ canadian.

[GRM]

I have had probelms with caddy callipers too.

I personlly woudl rather spendmy money on some other part of the truck, than the brakes, expecally when drums are so cheap. Your still gonna be a few hundred into disks, and then you have to get all the quwirks out. I say forget it, and spend the extra money on a lockright.
Its not like the brakes are that bad. I can still lock up my 35" on dry pavement with my stock 85 brakes.

[Krylon]

Ya, I'll just redo the stockers and save up the extra cabbage for an SAS swap! 

[Jimmyg]

I saw a feature on Trucks on big rig brake systems. They maintain drums can and do provide more friction area thus better braking. So  as in the traction questions of wide verses narrow tires which is true

[brainlessfool]

are you asking about tires or brakes?
if tires the answer is BOTH  realy. if your on deep sand wide is the way to go. if your on rocks wide with low tire peresser is the way to go. if your driving on assfalt and its raining cats and dogs then skinny is the way to go. skinny has other uses too where its better than wide. not a hole lot butt a few,

[spaceman]

It's completely unnecessary to do discs in your situation.  The only reasons would be "Cool Guy" points or if you need to spend money on vehicle maintenance for tax purposes.